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Discussion Starter #1
Okay guys maybe you can help me out again. Recently installed 2 new pmds and have them on heatsink behind bumper now it isint grounded it's just placed behind grill not sure if that matters. Also did fuel cap mod as I was sold a gas model one so took the plunger out. It's a 95 c2500, it runs good until it warms up then it sputters coughs and dies. It takes about 4 miles to start acting up. I have tested the fuel pump by starting it and cranking open the t it has good flow for over a minute. I put in a new fuel filter yesterday to maybe help out but nope. Now when I Crack the bleeder I do have some air bubbles so maybe a leak somewhere? Any and all help is appreciated as I'm at a loss. Been tryong to research but I just get lost in it all. Having to borrow a friends spare suv to get to work and pick my kids up from school good thing for great friends right.
 

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Okay guys maybe you can help me out again. Recently installed 2 new pmds and have them on heatsink behind bumper now it isint grounded it's just placed behind grill not sure if that matters.
Are the heat sinks bolted to something or just hanging loose?

Also did fuel cap mod as I was sold a gas model one so took the plunger out.
When it stops running, have you opened the fuel cap and did you get a loud/heavy whoosh sound?

It's a 95 c2500, it runs good until it warms up then it sputters coughs and dies. It takes about 4 miles to start acting up.
How long after the engine stops can you get it started again?

I put in a new fuel filter yesterday to maybe help out but nope. Now when I Crack the bleeder I do have some air bubbles so maybe a leak somewhere?
Do you get the air bubbles from the new fuel filter bleeder?

Check for cracks in the rubber fuel lines around the Fuel Filter Manager

Make sure the fuel filter is fully seated on the Fuel Filter Manager.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are the heat sinks bolted to something or just hanging loose?

Heatsink is hanging loose



When it stops running, have you opened the fuel cap and did you get a loud/heavy whoosh sound?

Fuel cap no whoosh took the plunger out of it so won't have vac it does spill out fuel when full tank but I just deal with that


How long after the engine stops can you get it started again?
It really all depends. Usually I cycle the key a few times not sure if it helps. But a few cranks and it will usually fire.

Do you get the air bubbles from the new fuel filter bleeder?
Yes bubbles from new filter just as the old did

Check for cracks in the rubber fuel lines around the Fuel Filter Manager
I shall do this tomorrow on my day off

Make sure the fuel filter is fully seated on the Fuel Filter Manager.
Yes it is funny seated I made sure of that I noticed it has only one way to go with the one large groove and other smaller ones

And thank you for your reply much appreciated
 

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Do you notice any dash lights or other electrical stuff shut off when it dies?
If you start it and let it idle, how long till it dies?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have taken notice of what lights are or arnt on. I shall next time I drive it which will be tomorrow . And at idle not sure I can test that tomorrow also
 

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Which brand of 2 new PMDs did you buy?

Also, which brand of extension cable?
 

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Something to consider but when you changed the fuel filter did you make sure that the bowl was completely cleaned out? I had similar issues and I had replaced pmd, lift pump and filter to no avail. Got a turkey baster and sucked out the bottom and came up with a black gunk that took a bit of rinsing to get clean. I think it was algae as my truck sits a bit between runs. I now run with an algaecide and have had no more issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay guys after its been sitting for a bit. I decided to take her on a drive and see how she did. For about 8 minutes or so or casual driving and beating on her some it started to studder. Got it home cranked open the t valve and no fuel and it shut right off. So ordering a lift pump and seeing if that does it. It was only 29 bucks from rockauto so figures why not. I will update when it arrives
 

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That very well may be the oil pressure switch that is bad...ya need to read through the sticky section before you open your wallet next time
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I figured start replacing A few things here and there to make it reliable. And ops is one thing I was thinking from reading
 

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Well I figured start replacing A few things here and there to make it reliable. And ops is one thing I was thinking from reading
If you do replace the Ops only use AC Delco: D1808A

Any other brand will bring you Gremlins
 
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So ordering a lift pump and seeing if that does it. It was only 29 bucks from rockauto so figures why not. I will update when it arrives
Many of the cheap replacement parts are pure JUNK and are just a waste of time to install. I have even experienced the same poor quality junk from some name brand parts. I used to proactively replace parts thinking that I was improving the longevity of my 20+ year old vehicle only to determine the last part I installed had caused a failure. :idea:

So I replace what needs replacing and I have learned most replacement parts even AC don't last a fraction of what the 20 year old OEM parts do.

Happy Holidays
 

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For LP, get ACDelco EP158.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay guys installed new lift pump, bleed the fuel system. Ran fine for a few minutes as usual. Then went down hill, stalled and took a minute to refire. Ran rough as usual, cel came on and gave me codes 18,35,36,54,62,85. This thing is driving me insane. So we have a new lift pump, new fuel filter, fuel cap has been modified to not create pressure in fuel tank, new pmd on heatsink, tested another pmd to make sure it wasn't the issue. Ideas guys?
 

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Okay guys installed new lift pump, bleed the fuel system. Ran fine for a few minutes as usual. Then went down hill, stalled and took a minute to refire. Ran rough as usual, cel came on and gave me codes 18,35,36,54,62,85. This thing is driving me insane. So we have a new lift pump, new fuel filter, fuel cap has been modified to not create pressure in fuel tank, new pmd on heatsink, tested another pmd to make sure it wasn't the issue. Ideas guys?
Did you go through your grounds?

Have you eliminated the PMD harness as suspect?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I did check grounds, but perhaps I missed one. I shall go through them again and again, and that I have not. My pmd will not connect without the extended harness
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I did find this while looking around.
looked up codes
DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)
DTC 54 PCM fuel circuit error
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
No clue on 85.
Im assuming these are due to being in limp mode?
 

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