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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, as my research continues (newbie) I have come to the conclusion that another fuel filter will be good for my truck in the long haul along with starting to run fuel additive. What system is the best/easiest install/price etc.? Aside from break-in/fluid/filter changes, this will be my first mod. Then start performance mods as they become more available for the LLY. Larger tires and better shocks also down the road as I wear out the stockers. I was actually surprised when I first got the truck home and could only find one fuel filter, always thought diesels had two! Guess that is why I am a newbie!
 

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I got the Racor kit from Greg at http://lubespecialist.com/ .


I haven't installed it yet, as I was focusing on 2 other projects for the truck. 1. Somone hit my new truck's driver's side mirror off, so I installed some TTT mirrors (lots of work). 2. I made a motorcycle carrier for the hitch.


Looking at the instructions for the kit... It looks complicated (as is any wiring the first time) for the wiring of the heater and WIF sensor. The mounting looks easy.


Marco
 

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mbeckwith said:
I got the Racor kit from Greg at http://lubespecialist.com/ .


<snip>


Looking at the instructions for the kit... It looks complicated (as is any wiring the first time) for the wiring of the heater and WIF sensor. The mounting looks easy.


Marco

It's kind of a pain figuring it out the first time. I got the Racor kit from OFI. Had to call Racor about a couple of things including the wiring. They used an '03 for their instructions and the '04 is a bit different, plus the ferules in the compression fittings for the feed fuel line were in the fittings backwards....
It took several calls to figure out they went in the way I thought they did, and not the way they came.


Any way, if Greg's kit doesn't say so, there are two sets of pink switched wires underneath the UHFP instead of just one. Use the smaller gauge wire set just below the bolt, not the two underneath that. Also, the tower piece they suggest mounting the relay to is occupied by additional wiring. I trimmed the tab on the relay and slid it into a slot on the UHFP base, then tie wrapped it to the base. It worked pretty well.


GM wants you to tie into the WIF sensor circuit just back from the engine plug for protection from water, etc. according to Racor. Opening up that harness is a pain, but putting it back together taped is a bigger one. Make sure you've got a SMALL roll of electrical tape....


Any other questions you might have, I'll be happy to try and answer them, but there are a few differences between the Racor kit and Greg's, so I may not know. Greg has been really good about answering questions, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Oh, wear some clothes you can toss because diesel fuel doesn't seem to wash out....
 

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Zeeb,


Thanks for the tips.



I will be installing next week after I get back from a trip. I might take you up on your offer of help answering questions.


Marco
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok then
 

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Zeeb have any pick of your install, I'm looking at getting something ASAP.
 

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I wound up routing the fuel lines a little differently because I wanted to retain the plastic clips holding the line to the frame, so I used a 90 degree elbow in the back to avoid kinking the flex line.


The UHFP relay mount pic is a bit blurry (that's the relay you can see with the white, green, black and red wires coming out of it and mounted flat on the bottom piece of the UFHP housing) but I wound up mounting the relay 180 degrees from where this pic shows it. That worked out well. I also routed the harness up into the middle of the UHFP panel instead of the side as Racor suggested. That allowed me to tie wrap the harness to an existing harness instead of leaving it loose. The pic of the bottom of the UHFP shows the two sets of pink wires I talked about in the post above, not the one set shown on the install directions. I sent Racor the pics too.


I didn't take any pics of the WIF tie in, but basically I removed the "corregated" plastic stuff, cut away the tape from an area about five inches back from the engine plug and spliced into the circuit there. Then I re-wrapped all of that with several layers of tape, secured the WIF sense wire with one layer all the way back to the UHFP and re-installed the corregated stuff with tape like the factory puts on it.


Turned out to be more of a project than anticipated, but I wasn't in a hurry since the truck is not my only driver and I wanted it right.


Oh, the "goo" you see is because the truck has been undercoated, and the missing paint is because of me drying off diesel fuel which ate the coating on the frame....



Going to have to see about getting some of that stuff Hoot's got listed to redo it. I chose not to break the siphon on the fuel line in order to fill the new filter, it worked pretty well, but I think if I were to do it again, I'd break the siphon and deal with priming....



The truck had less than 1/8 of a tank of fuel when I did it, but with the siphon effect there was still quite a bit of fuel running out and the fuel fill cap was loose so there wasn't any pressure in it either.


edit info:


GM decided to put a couple of extra bends in the fuel lines on the '04, so the return fuel line runs right over the hole of the top mounting bolt for the mount. If you run the bolts from the inside out and tweak the return line, it clears nicely. The piece of flex line you can see tie wrapped to the return line in the first pic is just in case of chaffing. There's not a lot of room between the line and the compression coupling for the fuel feed line, and if you bend the return line more it won't fit into the retaining clip on the frame anymore. Just the airplane mechanic in me I guess...






<IMG onMouseOver="this.style.cursor='hand'" onMouseOut="this.style.cursor=''" alt='Click on
 

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Thanks Zeeb, Now I just need to order one up and give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What about the nictane kit? It looks simple, no wiring. Why does the recor kit require wiring?
 

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redneck45 said:
What about the nictane kit? It looks simple, no wiring. Why does the recor kit require wiring?

The Racor kit has a built in heater and WIF sensor just like the factory filter and it works with the truck's DIC.


Greg's kit can be ordered with or without the heater, and/or the WIF sensor. Supposedly, the Racor kit is GM approved although you'll not find any reference to that anywhere I've seen. The Racor Product Bulletin about the kit does tell you to refer to your local Racor Distributor or GMC Truck dealer for installation assistance.


http://www.o-f-i.com/sec/Racor_Fuel_Filter_Duramax.pdf


I've spoken to several Racor engineers about their kit, and each has made reference to things that were done or incorporated into the kit in response to what GM wanted.


This may or may not be important to you, but if you've got a Service Manager like I have, you'd better get his okay before you start modifying your fuel system, or he might void the warranty. Depends on the dealer as to whether or not they would consider another type of installation as kosher.Edited by: Zeeb
 

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Does the Racor Kit come with a 10 micron only? You can get Greg's with a 2 micron also. Later! Frank
 

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Ya Frank, it comes with a 10 micron... If you don't happen to like that you can put whatever rated filter Racor makes on that head.


I happen to believe that the engineers at Racor and GM who worked on this thing and decided that having a pair of 2 micron filters was not the way to go must know more about it than I, or most of the folks here.


redneck45,


You need to do a search on this topic since I have no intention of opening up this can of worms again. It's been beat to death. After you read some of the threads and opinions about this subject, you'll have to decide which route is best for you since there is no concensus of opinion. The only thing most agree on is that some sort of secondary fuel filtration is a good idea...
Edited by: Zeeb
 

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How does the heater work? Is it on all the time when the engine is running (key on). Not sure I need it in Florida, but then you never know I may need it someday if I take a road trip to Buffalo to see my folks
.
 

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Power is supplied to it from a switched source, the pink wire tie in, and it's supposed to be thermostatically controlled and turn on below 40 degress F. just like the factory filter.


They (Racor) don't talk about exactly how it works much, although I never asked specifically how it functions. Whether it's capable of variable heat or is just on or off, I don't know.


Maybe Greg's got the answer to that one. I just felt that while it's not normally cold enough around here to cause problems with Winter blended fuel, there are times when it does get really cold, or I go someplace further North. Cheap insurance is my thought about it.
 

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Thanks to Zeeb and the "pink wire" explanation - I just finished my Racor installation. I bought it from Greg at Lubespecialist.


Quality kit, but took me quite a bit more time than anticipated.


1. Greg threw in a rock shield for free (thanks, Greg!), but I had to prime and paint it.


2. Put couple coats of rubberized undercoating on bracket and stone shield over the paint.


3. Replaced hoses with Parker wire mesh lines and went with compression and/or taper fittings for all connections (no clamps). I should add that this is probably way over kill and Greg's kit is great as is.


4. Took wiring harness and sealed each connector with liquid electrical tape. Then sealed all exposed wires with a continuous length of low temp electrical tape. I should hope that there will be no worrys on corrosion or ice. Again, probably over kill.


Other than that - pretty much by the book install. But I have two half days into it (probably about 10 hours total - but this includes painting, undercoat, etc). A couple of items that need to be added to Greg's instructions (he almost got a call from me today).


A. A warning about the cutting the fuel line. It will create a siphon and you will essentially drain your tank of you are not prepared. Sounds logical - but I did not think of this until the line was cut.
Since I did not use the "slip on" clamped hoses that Greg provided, it took me more time to fiddle with the compression fitting on the mesh hose. Luckily, my son was outside and I yelled for a bucket once I realized why the fuel was continuing to drain out. My fault - and pretty stupid as I should have thought through this first.



B. That darn pink wire reference in Greg's instructions is semi-useless (no offense, Greg). If it was not for Zeeb and his explanation, I would have had to postpone another day. THANKS, Zeeb!!!!
I have an 04' LB7 and when I pulled the fuseblock off, there are 15+ "pink" wires under there andthe picture provided in the install doc is not real helpful.


C. Connecting (splicing) to the wire that goes into the engine connector - UGLY! Don't know about you but our friends at Yazaki or Delphi left NO slack in that wire. I could hardly fit the splice connector around the wire and was scared to death I was going to pull it out of the connection block. I was very very careful, but very paranoid as it required a fair amount tinkering to get the splice on it. It would be nice if there was someplace easier to grab on to it - maybe where the WIF wire originates by the other OEM filter?


D. A word of warning for those that may not realize this already. If your truck has been undercoated, be sure and remove the undercoating off of the fuel line where you make the cut and beyond the end of the new hose for about 1/2" - 1". Again - common sense to most of us, but it may be worth mentioning. BTW - starting fluid worked great. Spray in rag first.
 

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BK-G22,


Have any pics of your fuel line set up?


Thanks for all the tips guys, it will make it much easer for me when the time comes.
 

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These are pics from last night before any electrical was done.


Note that due to the type of connectors I used, I did not make a single cut in the line. I actually pulled out about a 4-5" section. (All while fuel was pouring out
)





Here is unit installed with rock guard (note: no wiring shown yet)





Lastly, here is one that gives you a better look at the rock guard. One more word of suggestion for Greg. The clearance between the rock guard and the filter is very tight. On mine, they are pretty much touching so it is kinda difficult to get a filter wrench on it and impossible to get your hands around it. The Parker wrench doesn't work either as it does not fit between the bottom of the bowl and that rock shield. If I try to engage the ribs on the bowl while flexing the plastic wrench, I can get about 60% of the bite I should get and this was enough (barely) to loosen the bowl. One trick I did not try was to loosen the whole bracket/rock shield assy to see of that would give me some more room. Not complaints - just observations/possible suggestions.





I will post more when the sun is out (better quality pics) and you can see the wiring harness as well. I would take pictures under the hood but that is all taped up and tucked away. As it stands right now, if a GM tech opened the hood, he would never know anything has been added unless he knew EXACLTY what to look for. I have everything hidden pretty well.


Hope these help.Edited by: BKG-22
 

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BKG-22,


Too bad you didn't read the part about the siphon that I wrote. I had a small piece of hose with a plug in it ready to go, but hindsight says breaking the siphon and dealing with priming is the way to go...



As far as the pink wires go, that took some fiddling with the multi-meter as Racor's instructions weren't very clear. But it was about 8:00PM when I discovered that so it was either try and figure it out or wait another day. I, like you, put two half days into it with the changes and chasing down information that wasn't clear on the install instructions.


Now for the best part. I, like you, installed the d*mn thing in order to leak check it before I hooked up the electrical. When I got to the part about testing the WIF sensor, I kind of did an AH SH*T..(golf terminology there). BUT, there is a way....



The bowl on mine came with a small nylon plug where the WIF sensor goes. Open the fuel cap to relieve the pressure and just take out the WIF sensor and put in that plug for a few minutes. Then just use the clamp section of a test light or something to short the two contacts on the end of the WIF sensor and presto! The DIC promptly informs you of "Water In Fuel". You'll get just a little fuel out of the bowl when changing back and forth, but not more than an ounce or so.


Hope that helps....



edit info:


You seem like the careful type, but just in case and it might be overkill, but I cleaned the WIF sensor off with some Electric Contact Cleaner and dried it before I hooked the harness back up and shorted the ends for the test....
Edited by: Zeeb
 

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Thanks Zeeb -


I have had this filter kit since mid-February but it has either been too cold for me to install or I have been travelling. I never thought to take another look out here in the forums to see if there has been any updated info (like yours). When I pulled the UHFB and saw the mess of "PINK" wires, I mumbled one of your "golf terms" and hoped that if a did a search for "pink wire" on this web site, I would find someone else who ran into the problem. Thanks again!


Yes, mine did have the nylon plug, I will give it a try. I am a little concerned about that WIF connection at the engine plug anyway. I checked, and the splice is locked closed, but did not sound or feel quite right. I really do not want to screw up that connector! That would be a tough one to get fixed under warrantee!



Thanks again for your input!
 

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Found the original nylon plug - pulled the WIF and put in the plug. Tested GREAT! WATER IN FUEL came on as expected on the DIC.


Whew! Breath of fresh air! All checks out "Green Light"! Time to put some miles on it. I just turned over 3000 and lovin' every mile!


Thanks to all!


BTW - it got pretty cold last night (below freezing) and was still cold when I started tinkering with it this a.m. After testing WIF, I noticed as the fuel ran down my arm
, it was WARM. Kinda surprised me - but then I just grinned!!!!
The ol'fuel heater had started doing its job as soon as I turned the key on! COOL!!! (I mean WARM!)Edited by: BKG-22
 
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