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Running the 6.5TD without the PMD resistor.

40K views 16 replies 14 participants last post by  guybb3  
#1 ·
Hi folks
I had to replace my PMD the other day along side the road and could not get the resistor out of the old PMD with the plenum off. I guess I just didn't have the right tool. The new PMD I ordered off the net came with an extension cable and heat sink only.

I plugged in the new PMD without the resistor and she fired right up. I have driven aprox 50 km since and have not noticed any performance issues and no codes set. If anything there may be a small puff of black smoke on start up that I had not noticed before.

Any of you techies out there know what the ramifications of continuing to drive without the resistor might be? The truck has 214000 km on it.
 
#2 ·
the resistor just puts the pump within factory specs due to fluctuating tolerances when they are made, if i remember right when the computer actually resets(something like 50 key cycles), the default setting with no resistor is like a 5.
 
#3 · (Edited)
After reading this forum for a while, there is really no pattern with running PMD without resistor. All I have read is that in some truck, owners come here with no start condition (limping mode with new PMD), turns out they don't have resistor. It does not do it right away when you change PMD after the old one went bad but after sometimes. So nobody never correlates it to no resistor unless the owner told us there is no resistor. Then when the resistor is in, it starts right away.

My guess is it depends on the year of the truck being OBD-I or OBD-II. Even within the same type, there are some variation.
 
#4 · (Edited)
After reading this forum for a while, there is really no pattern with running PMD without resistor. All I have read is that in some truck, owners come here with no start condition (limping mode with new PMD), turns out they don't have resistor. It does not do it right away when you change PMD after the old one went bad but after sometimes. So nobody never correlates it to no resistor unless the owner told us there is no resistor. Then when the resistor is in, it starts right away.

My guess is it depends on the year of the truck being OBD-I or OBD-II. Even within the same type, there are some variation.
I have to agree. A quick search will show this. A number of older posts, however, indicate OBD-I will default to #1 and OBD-II just won't run. That is, of course, after 50 Ko-Ko cycles or a TDC relearn. However, there are examples that don't follow that pattern. DTC's also seem to be common.
 
#9 ·
Internet or local parts store possibly. I picked mine up at Advance but they had to order it. I think it came in a kit with a 5 and a 9.
 
#7 ·
I have owned my 96 for 1.5 years and it through a P1218 after the year and a half which is pump calibration when I checked the resistor I found it had none. Have experienced a no start but it was a blown ECM fuse and I think that blew do to shorted out lift pump.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
So what makes the price vary between $5 and $45 each? Not much to em.
 
#14 ·
Don't know. I would not think if all it changes is the fuel it would make much difference but maybe the fuel change effects the timing and I think that makes a difference in the sound.