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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the correct way to break in a new rifle? I have never owned a new rifle and this is new to me. Should I just reload some crap loads and go shoot 20 or so? This is for my 300 Ultra mag so 20 rounds might be it for the day.

Thanks in advance. :D

Ben
 

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i have never heard of breaking in a new rifle, i would say just go sight it in and youll be fine. my old man bought a 300 ultra mag with the synthetic stock man what a gun but the thing kicks like a mule, I shot a doe last november with it and the thing almost drove me out of my treestand. LOL Good luck with it.
 

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The most common way to break in a rifle is to clean the rifle (the bore), and shoot one round. Then clean again. Always clean a new rifle before shooting it - who knows what is in the bore!

Shoot one and clean for at least 10 rounds (preferably 20). This is a very slow and tedious process. It takes me a long afternoon and most of the evening at the range to go through a 20-round break in procedure. Don't get impatient and skimp on cleaning. This is a one-time process intended to give results later when you pull the trigger on game animals. From your avatar, it looks like you are no stranger to long-range shooting.

Also...
- Get a cleaning rod guide for the action. The cleaning rod ALWAYS goes in the rear, not down the muzzle.
- Use a good one-piece cleaning rod (Dewey rods are good). Do not use the crappy screw-together cleaning rods (unless it is an emergency of some kind).
- Use nothing harder than a bronze bore brush. Stainless brushes are out of the question.

I don't consider the one-piece rod and rod guide as optional. More rifles have had their accuracy ruined by poor cleaning practices than any other cause.

The purpose of the "shoot one, clean one" method is to have the bullets going down a clean bore so they can polish it. They will leave copper fouling as they do this, so you want to clean it out before the next bullet passes. This allows the bullets to take out small machining burrs or other imperfections without copper build-up.

Soon, the bore will be much easier to clean and will not foul as soon as it would without the barrel break-in. Accuracy will also become more consistent. You'll get fewer flyers.

For cleaning fluid I use Shooter's Choice or Butch's Bore Shine. Either of these will do a good job of removing copper & carbon fouling without the aggressive tactics of most dedicated copper removers (heavy ammonia). My procedure is to run two wet patches down the bore, then carefully run the bronze brush all the way back & forth down the bore a few times (never reverse halfway!). Run one more wet patch and let it soak for 5 minutes. After the wait, run another wet patch. This one should come out with some green showing. If you're seeing black, run another wet patch and use the brush again. The black is carbon/powder fouling, though after only one shot the first use of hte brush typically takes care of this. The 300 RUM may have more than most, though.

Keep it up with the wet patches until the green goes away. You'll see more after brushing - the bronze brush cause a bit of green to show by itself.

After the patches come out without any green (or very little), run a couple dry patches down the bore and shoot again (do not shoot with a wet bore).

After several shots you will probably notice it takes less time to clean the bore. The bore is getting smoother and less copper is getting worn off the bullets as they are shot.. which is the whole idea! :)
 

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wow, i have never done anything like that well i usually clean out the barrel with a bore brush and a patch cause there is usually grease but i have never had any problems at all. I'll try it your alls way next time, good info!!
 

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Yes he right on da money, Except with a cal. of that size you will want to run off at least 50 rounds in that day!!

Then post a picture of your shoulder the next day.... LoL
 

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X5. I had a custom .300 Win Mag built a few years ago by an old gunsmith who was said to be well known in the 1000 yard match community. He prescribed exactly the same method as above. As stated, it is a bit tedious, but worth the trouble. The gun shoots very well if I do my part and I feel sure that the break in contributed to its accuracy.:)
 

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The way I do it is shoot 50 rounds of reloads, like with plain speer pointed soft points and a good clean burning powder. Then after than I clean the gun and find me a bullet and powder combo that works the best in the rifle. It may take a while to do this but just make 5 rounds of the same bullet with different grains of powder, the same goes with other types of bullets.
 

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Have to agree with HBurns although it may not take that many rounds depending on the roughness of the bore. The object is to have a perfectly clean bore for each shot. This allows the bullet to burnish off small imperfections/rough spots. If you don't get all the copper out it will fill in the imperfections and the bullet will ride on top. If you want to speed up the process get some JB bore cleaner and run that about 30 passes between shots. Cleans things up pretty fast and polishes justa tiny bit on its own.
 

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Final finish seems to polish just the throat more than anything. You can use lapping compound if you want. Try Rifle magazine they had an article by John Barsness a while back about lapping bores. Very informative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have all the cleaning supplies mentioned. I will do just as described since that makes most sense to me. I didnt think going out and blazing away was the best and I was correct. Thanks for your help guys.

I already reloaded @ 40 various rounds and now I will load some dumpers and clean each one. One load took 103 grains of Hogden Retumbo! :)
 

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blnagel;1536419; said:
I have all the cleaning supplies mentioned. I will do just as described since that makes most sense to me. I didnt think going out and blazing away was the best and I was correct. Thanks for your help guys.

I already reloaded @ 40 various rounds and now I will load some dumpers and clean each one. One load took 103 grains of Hogden Retumbo! :)
Actually, Bushmaster Firearms reccomends "blazing away" for something like 1,000 rounds with no cleaning on a chrome-lined barrel but that doesn't really fit your application.

103 GRAINS!!:eek:

Retumbo indeed. And I thought putting 85 in my 300 Weatherby was a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah 103 grains! That might leave a mark! :) :eek:
 

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I have an old Mark X with a douglas barrel in .243 that shoots 3/8 " groups at 100 yds broke in as described.Haven't shot it in a while.got out of the bean field and into the woods ruger ,.44 mag carbine is my deer medicine nowdays.
 

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blnagel;1534868; said:
What is the correct way to break in a new rifle? I have never owned a new rifle and this is new to me. Should I just reload some crap loads and go shoot 20 or so? This is for my 300 Ultra mag so 20 rounds might be it for the day.

Thanks in advance. :D

Ben
Just wondering what the recoil is like when shooting the 300 Ultra Mag. I have a 300 WIN. Mag with a good recoil pad, that kicks less than some of my lighter, smaller caliber guns. Weight probably does play a big factor in recoil reduction. Give a range report on recoil and accuracy as soon as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
10/4 about the reports. Iffin I do get a bruise on the shoulder I will post pictures. I will also post picts of tartgets.

Ben
 
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