Hm, my setup is a bit special because of the relocated batteries. I took out the rear bench, and the batteries went where the rear passengers would put thier feet. Two 50mm² wires run under the cabin to the engine compartment on the drivers side where they come up along the firewall. From there, they go to the now-empty battery compartment on the drivers side where the ground wire ends. The positive wire goes into a distributor-box from where the stock wire still goes across the fan shroud to another distributor-box in the passenger side battery compartement to supply the starter and to connect the alternator. The loading-wire of the alternator has been replaced with a decent one, though. I have it like that for about a year now. I have remove the stock ground wires from the block and ran my own ground wire across the block to the alternator bracket.
To rewire the head lamps, I installed two relais on the passenger side on a clamp that will hold some more relais. A control wire with 5 lines to control relais goes from there through the firewall into the cabin. I'm using one of the lines to switch the two relais.
Power for the headlamps is taken from the distributor-box on the passenger side, switched by the relais.
I'm not using the stock switch in the dashboard. Some previous owner already did some rewiring to it. He installed a small switch in the dashboard that turns on/off the DRLs, the rear lights and the instrument light. The headlamps could be turned on independently from that. The parking light function of the stock switch does nothing, so I'll be installing some parking light myselfe at some time. It only turned on/off the headlights.
I have not rewired the high beams yet. I plan on replacing the stock headlamps, and I have seperate high beams installed. The stock high beams are currently disabled by taking the plugs off the bulbs for testing purposes.
With a stock setup, it's probably the easiest way to use the stock wires that go to the headlamps to power a relais on each side instead of the headlamps. The power for the lamps could be taken directly off the battery (don't forget to install a 10 amp fuse!).
I'll take some pics of it when I get to it in the daylight; it's too dark already.
BTW, does anyone know the wiring of the stock switch? There's a lot of wires on it ... I guess I won't need it anymore once I rewired the highbeams. I would remove it then and put in a decent switch for the cabin light --- the stock switch for the cabin light cannot be turned off when the dashboard is cold, it just doesn't stick back in then :/
I'll throw in another two relais, one for the wiper motor and another one for the washer pumps. I'll install two washer pumps, one for each nozzle. With that, the current switches for the wipers and washer pumps will also be rewired to use the control wire I installed. That will leave me one of the lines of the control wire to switch parking lamps and another one for the high beams
I could be wrong, but don't batteries emit gas or something? When you relocate a battery to the truck of a drag car it needs to be in a sealed box with a vent outside of the vehicle, or the trunk sealed from the passenger compartment with a firewall. I could be wrong since I have never done this, but it was a tidbit of info that is sticking in my head at the moment. I have lots of other useless stuff stuck in there too....
I used the painless wiring kit to keep my lows on when my highs are and I love it. I think it was about $20. Could be done for cheaper with parts from the auto store or radio shack since it was just a relay, I don't have a diagram and it is snowing out...sorry.
Yeah, batteries should be vented to the outside since they can produce some gas while loaded. But there have been and still are cars with batteries installed in the cabin from stock, and not all of them were/are vented to the outside. The rear heater outlets do the venting for me
Do the wiring kits use decent wires? The point is that the stock wires are way too thin and will make for a drop in the voltage which in turn gives you the 'dark' lights. Before I rewired them, they didn't look like halogen lights at all, but now they do It's not only keeping them on when the high beams are on, much more is to the brighter light you get when the bulps get their nominal voltage.
The actual light I have ahead now is maybe twice of what it was before. It always was a hassle to drive in the dark because I didn't see much, but now it's fun to drive in the dark.
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