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Had to get inventive to add the power adjust[wasn't available on trucks in 94 but was on burbs]
What mirror switch did you use to control the mirror and where did you install it?
Feel free to post pics :HiHi:
 

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Discussion Starter #82
What mirror switch did you use to control the mirror and where did you install it?
Feel free to post pics :HiHi:
I used the window and mirror switches along with the switch panel,from the junkyard, out of a 92 -94 2 dr Tahoe. The panel out of a burb would have had 2 extra window switches. I used the mirror wiring harness from a 94 Suburban. I had to separate it out of the cross body harness that runs on the interior firewall. By using that harness I had the correct connectors for the power mirrors. I had to make my own harness for the heated mirrors. They were not available on any trucks in 94. As mentioned, I used the rear window defrost switch from a 94 burb. It has a timer built in so you don't burn out the heating elements. I don't think I have it all finished in that 94 project[shop ornament] truck. I'll get pics of the different style switch panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Here are some pics of the switch panels and the rear defrost switch.
The 1st pic is of the stock 88-94 reg cab truck switch panel. I dislike them because it is very easy to hit the wrong switch.
The 2nd pic is of the different style switch panel from a 92-94 suburban. 2 extra switches if used in a regular cab truck.
3rd pic is a close up of the power mirror switch
4th pic is of the suburban style passenger door switch panel.
5th pic is of the 92-94 Tahoe/Yukon 2 door driver's door switch panel.
6th pic is of the rear defrost switch in a 92-94 Suburban
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I finished the glow plug override tonight.
I used a ford style starter solenoid. The wire from the OE glow plug relay is 8 gauge with cast copper ends sealed with double wall adhesive lined heat shrink. The solenoid and wire is overkill. I used a in-line fuse holder on the wire going to the momentary switch on the dash. 14 gauge wire for that.
This was a quick, easy and inexpensive mod to do. It improves cold and hot starting over the OE system since the OE system was not designed for the slower new self regulating glow plugs. I did this mod on my 92 and it made a world of difference.:thumb::thumb:
The solenoid and switch are very common items and can be bought at any parts store or farm store or maybe even walmart.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
To start tonight's short session, I replaced the weatherstrips for the glass on both doors. I had to use a small screwdriver to "Shoehorn" the new weatherstrip under the mirror. I used a rubber hammer to tap the weatherstrip in and to get it all the way down on the door. I bought the weatherstrips as a set for both doors from this ebay seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outer-Front-Window-Sweep-Weatherstrip-Seal-Pair-Set-for-Chevy-GMC-Pickup-Truck/131022802309?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649. The first set I ordered was lost out of the cardboard tube:wtf: because they didn't tape the plugs in the ends. They shipped me a second set ASAP. They appear to be good quality. Time will tell. They fit the same as OE.
As long as I knew I was going to be removing the inner door panels, I also ordered these plastic retainers that usually break when removing the inner panel. Note: 95 and newer uses a different type of retainer
Here is a link to the 88-94 style door panel retainers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-pcs-88-on-Chevy-GMC-pickup-truck-door-panel-clips-15612948/310299971968?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I also have a special tool for removing the inner door panels that is shown in the pics. A "Wonder Bar"[carpentry tool] also works.
Once the interior panel was out of the way I removed all the screws holding the inner door panel on including the 2 larger bolts that hold the front track in place.
Once the inner panel was loose I tipped it in enough to disconnect the linkage rods for the door handle and lock. I left the wiring for the switches all connected . With the linkage rods disconnected , I was able to push the inner door panel far enough forward for the rollers to come out of the track on the glass. I then swung the inner panel over against the seat and removed the glass out of the door.
That was as far as I got tonight. I'll need to clean out the inside of the door and do some rust prevention before I put the replacement glass in.
Also got a pic of the large fender washer I used when I bolted the mirrors on.
 

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1993 chevy silverado c3500 crew cab dually
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Wow good read. I wished I had read this like 2 years ago. I've done. Most of these but I knuckle headed my way through. Great details and. Photos
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Wow good read. I wished I had read this like 2 years ago. I've done. Most of these but I knuckle headed my way through. Great details and. Photos
Thanks. I try to highlight the small details that really matter. Sharing is what this forum is all about. I feel obligated to give back a small part of what I have learned here. Taking all the pics is a bit of a PIA but it makes things more obvious and easier to understand.
I can only hope the day comes soon that I will be able to finally be able to drive this truck. I have many other projects to get into my shop.
 

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As with me. I have projects to get out!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Censored I hit a slight snag tonight. I was cleaning the dirt and rust out of the inside of the door to spray some rust treatment on it. I thought I should check the rollers on the window regulator to be sure the turned freely.:shake::banghead::banghead: One was seized up. That meant that the inner door panel would have to be replaced. I unplugged the electrical connectors that are in the door jamb and removed the whole inner panel. I had the 2 inner door panels from the doors that I disassembled. The suburban panel had the best rollers, so I transferred the truck wiring harness to it.[PIA] I also had to swap the air flappers from the truck panel. They were riveted on .
I greased up the short track on the inner door panel and the track on the glass.
I got a couple of coats of rust treatment on the inside of the door. Primer and top coat tomorrow.
 

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Man. It seems like. Your gonna touch every part of this truck! Rear bumper? Or is that planned? Lol
 
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Discussion Starter #91
Man. It seems like. Your gonna touch every part of this truck! Rear bumper? Or is that planned? Lol
LOL I already replaced one of the tailgate hinges. 4" exhaust and flexsteel bucket seats are in the plan.:bounce:
 
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Down pipe and crossover too! Maybe a hx35 and maybe propane injection. And meth cooling spray and......
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Down pipe and crossover too! Maybe a hx35 and maybe propane injection. And meth cooling spray and......
I plan to use the 4" system off my 92[yet to be junked] The seats came from a 93 burb that I junked. I need the console out of a 94 parts truck. No power adders. I'm not sure this engine is up to it. One cylinder had bad rust pits at the bottom of the bore. I honed it and put new rings in that cylinder. Fingers crossed that it isn't a blow-by queen. I have several other running 92- 93 engines that I can put in it, if need be. I may swap the axles out of my 92. They have:thumb: 3.40 gears. This truck has 4.10s:thumbsdow
 

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Man you shouldv swapped the axles before brake assembly. On my 91 6.2 I avg 18plus mpg and. 22 highway only with 4.10's. But I drove 60mph everywhere.
 

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the suburban style switches are what's in my 93 crew cab.
 

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Looked like. Mine too
 

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Deejaaa do you have a member number 2 of the a$$hole club? If not can I be it. I personally am. Surprised someone is more a a$$hole than me. My boss would. Agree too
 
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Discussion Starter #98
I got the driver's door back together tonight with the replacement glass and inner door panel/regulator. I must have got all the wires back into their proper place in the window and lock switches, because everything works as it should.:thumb:
Perhaps tomorrow I will start it up and go for a test drive :eek::eek:
 

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Don't you hate it when. Things go right!
 

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Discussion Starter #100
The wires had to be removed from the connectors:wtf: for all 3 switches to fish them into the cavity that the switches go in. With the "Suburban-4-door " style switches only the power lock connector has to be dis assembled. The Suburban-4 door style has a different cut-out than the truck interior panel has. The panel with the wood on it is the Suburban panel
 

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