Reviving a 93
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More work done
After driving for a few days, to be sure it was ok, I brought it back in the shop for steering and suspension work. I also knew that one of the CV shafts had a torn boot and was likely shot. So it got new Idler arm, new pitman arm, upper and lower ball joints and new / remaned cv shafts. After all I have done to this truck, I hope it goes a long time before any major work.
The lower ball joints were the originals, so I got to drill the rivets out:thumbsdow. Upper ball joints had been replaced so they were bolted in:thumb: I was wishing that I would have done the idler and pitman arms while the engine was out[lesson learned] Ball joints and arms were all Moog Problem solver parts , Made in USA !!!:thumb::thumb:
CV shafts came from NAPA.
After driving for a few days, to be sure it was ok, I brought it back in the shop for steering and suspension work. I also knew that one of the CV shafts had a torn boot and was likely shot. So it got new Idler arm, new pitman arm, upper and lower ball joints and new / remaned cv shafts. After all I have done to this truck, I hope it goes a long time before any major work.
The lower ball joints were the originals, so I got to drill the rivets out:thumbsdow. Upper ball joints had been replaced so they were bolted in:thumb: I was wishing that I would have done the idler and pitman arms while the engine was out[lesson learned] Ball joints and arms were all Moog Problem solver parts , Made in USA !!!:thumb::thumb:
CV shafts came from NAPA.
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Did you replace the 4 cab to frame mounts bk95td? If you're going to, the front left (fwd. driver's side) mount on my '93 had a sheet metal flange around the mount and attached to the cab. Tried to jack up the cab enough to get the mount out, but couldn't. Didn't want to disconnect steering shaft, etc. to get the cab high enough. Put a bunch of wet rags in the area and torched the flange off. Just wondering if you had to deal with this?
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Nope, haven't done any mounts or bushings other than motor mounts and trans mount. These rust belt trucks usually rust the body mount bolts so bad, you can't get them loose or they will snap off. I had 2 of the cab mount bolts on my 92 rust off. The frame was rusted out so no point in even trying to fix it.
Any tips on removing the cross over pipe? I got a new one and tried it once but the bolts where just so rusted they wouldn't budge.
Wow, im jealous! I wish I had a shop lile you. Everything looks so nice. I wish I had the knowledge and confidence to do more. I'm not a big gear head but I try my best. I want to do basically all you did to your truck, mechanical wise. I have the crew cab and still looking for a donor truck.
The one one thing that struck me is how easy the frame gets rusted. My truck is from down south, I drove her two winters , now I kinda regret it. I should look into rust proofing.
Any ways man, great post and I definitely will keep this booked marked for when I start some projects.
The one one thing that struck me is how easy the frame gets rusted. My truck is from down south, I drove her two winters , now I kinda regret it. I should look into rust proofing.
Any ways man, great post and I definitely will keep this booked marked for when I start some projects.
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Most times I end up taking the manifolds off because the OE bolts or studs break off. I weld a nut to the broke off bolt and heat the manifold red hot before trying to turn them out. Most times I have to repeat the nut welding and heating. I've tried drilling but it never worked. When I put it back together, I run a thread chase in the threads and use a2 stainless steel bolts with anti-seize compound on them.
I had one of the driver's side bolts crossover bolts frozen in my '93. Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible if you burn your truck to the ground. I packed wet rags in the area, used a small tip on my acet. torch and small flame. Took a while, but I heated the head of the bolt red hot for about a minute. Must have cracked the rust, because it broke free after that.
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Yes, heat is the gift that says " I'm not asking you to come off anymore"
You do have to be watchful and use plenty of heat but those stubborn bolts will let loose
Soak soak and soak again with penetrant. PB blaster. Or wd40 penetration spray. I spray leave for a day come back and heat with a torch (not even glowing) and immediately hit it with more spray. Let it cool. And spray with PB again. Next day it always comes off.
Note a minimum of an hour is needed for a penetrant to work. None of this is instantaneous
Note a minimum of an hour is needed for a penetrant to work. None of this is instantaneous
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PB is definitely a good product along with seafoam deep creep.That stuff works awesome as well.
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I've tried heating with the manifold on the truck. Not a good idea. The soundproofing material on the firewall is VERY flammable. I heat the manifold, not the bolt. The penetrating oil has little effect on the 20+ years of salt rust here in the north.
I've only had one manifold beat my method.
Exhaust shops use a induction heater to remove the stubborn bolts or studs. A alterative would be to remove the manifolds and take them to a exhaust shop.
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