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Today I finally got around to getting my 93 K2500HD back in the shop. It has been sitting for well over a year[maybe 2?] since I worked on it last.:eek: I had bought this truck as non-running that was making very bad knocking sound . The PO had started taking it apart and then threw in the towel and let it sit for a year or 2.
Shortly after I bought it , I got it running with the crossover exhaust pipe removed. It did have a very terrible knock that I could easily hear over the very loud exhaust. It did still have good oil pressure, so there was still some hope but I was going to pull the engine out to really check it out.
It turned out the bad knock was mostly the broken flexplate.:idea: As long as the engine was out and on a stand, I figured there was no better time to put in new head gaskets, ARP studs, timing chain and reseal the whole engine.
After pulling the heads off I found divits in the pistons from running with very bad injectors and rust in 1 cylinder from either a leaky head gasket or from sitting with no exhaust and a valve open. I pulled that rod and piston out, honed the cylinder and put new rings only on that piston.
I put it back together with Fel-Pro head gaskets, ARP head studs, Cloyes timing set, new valve seals, 97 HO water pump and a new set of "Medallion" injectors from Accurate Diesel. I cleaned it all up good and painted it Alpine Green which is better known as Detroit Diesel Green.
I cleaned up the engine compartment and painted it also. I put in Energy Suspension Poly engine and transfer case mounts and bought a oil cooler line set from Lubrication Specialist.
I put the engine in and got it running but it ran terrible. It wouldn't rev and there was lots of blue smoke. Apparently the injection pump went bad from sitting so long. :banghead::banghead: I didn't have a spare IP at the time and other things came up so the truck got pushed outside and ignored.:whistle:
Now with the frame on my 92 getting close to :eek::eek:dangerous, I need another truck running ,so this 93 got the call today. I'll be swapping a used 4911 IP on it, making some new battery cables for it and more than likely doing rear brakes and new steel lines since the rear reservoir was empty when i looked in it today.
Today was just getting it in the shop and start cleaning and looking over what else will need to be done to get it drivable.
I will do a separate thread on building battery cables. I've bought the tools and supplies to make my own since I have so many trucks and other equipment .
 

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Good job. Nice clean engine bay. :bigglasse Nice truck. What was it with the red interiors on these chevy's? :shake:
 

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Good job. Nice clean engine bay. :bigglasse Nice truck. What was it with the red interiors on these chevy's? :shake:
:boxing:I like the red 94- interiors. I have 4 of them:eek:. I have a pair of Flexsteel buckets that have the matching fabric. I need to find a red console to go with them.
The truck has just a little over 200,000 miles on it. 4.10 gears:thumbsdow:thumbsdow. It does have rust since it is a Minnesota truck but should last a few years. This truck hasn't been driven since 2006:eek:.
 

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:boxing:I like the red 94- interiors. I have 4 of them:eek:. I have a pair of Flexsteel buckets that have the matching fabric. I need to find a red console to go with them.
The truck has just a little over 200,000 miles on it. 4.10 gears:thumbsdow:thumbsdow. It does have rust since it is a Minnesota truck but should last a few years. This truck hasn't been driven since 2006:eek:.
Seems you and I are the minority :HiHi:. I love red/burgundy interiors on old cars and trucks. My '95 has the burgundy.
 

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LOL. I like the red interior, but not everything red. Some differentiating colors would be nice. Oh well, its grown on me some in the last couple of years. But when I paint my truck, Ill probably be changing the interior color at the same time. Probably gray and black, with a little red. We shall see.
I agree the 4.10 gears suck. I changed mine out for a set of 3.73 and wish I had the 3.56 instead. But I cant afford them yet.
 

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My 92 has 3.42 gears. For me, the 3.42 gears seem to be the best ratio. This truck may get the rear axle and front diff from the 92 when it gets junked.
The gray seats and carpet stain easily and show dirt. I have the tan interior in my 93 burb. That's not bad either.
 

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Seems you and I are the minority :HiHi:. I love red/burgundy interiors on old cars and trucks. My '95 has the burgundy.
Agreed! My first truck was dark red on burgendy and I liked that truck so much that It's become my favorite color scheme on cars. Current truck is blue on blue :bawl:
 

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My 92 has 3.42 gears. For me, the 3.42 gears seem to be the best ratio. This truck may get the rear axle and front diff from the 92 when it gets junked.
The gray seats and carpet stain easily and show dirt. I have the tan interior in my 93 burb. That's not bad either.

Your running an automatic trans? With my NV4500 I think the 3.42 might be too high. Great mileage, but sucky for trailers or heavy loads. Good point on the gray. But Im repainting her midnight blue (lower section), dark wineberry red (top section) and dark gunmetel gray (a strip down the red/blue devider at the body crease). I am not a artist, so interior colors are kinda not making sense in my head. LOL.
 

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Your running an automatic trans? With my NV4500 I think the 3.42 might be too high. Great mileage, but sucky for trailers or heavy loads. Good point on the gray. But Im repainting her midn and ight blue (lower section), dark wineberry red (top section) and dark gunmetel gray (a strip down the red/blue devider at the body crease). I am not a artist, so interior colors are kinda not making sense in my head. LOL.
Yes 4L80E auto/245/16 tires. With the higher gears, If you do need to drop a gear pulling a trailer, at least the tach doesn't go to over 3000 rpm like it does with 4.10s. Power is all in by 2500 RPM. Most of my driving is rural and half interstate runs of 70+ mph. 4.10s make the exhaust temps skyrocket at those speeds[stock turbo] especially for long distance pulling close to 10,000 lbs.
I have a gray flexsteel bench seat in my 92 with the red interior. That didn't clash too bad:confuzeld. I didn't care if it did. The comfy seat was worth it.:thumb:
 
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Agreed! My first truck was dark red on burgendy and I liked that truck so much that It's become my favorite color scheme on cars. Current truck is blue on blue :bawl:
Yeah I never cared for blue interiors myself. My dream GMT-400 is a black crewcab shortbox 6.5 with red/burgundy interior.:drool:
 
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A 6.5 with 4.10 gears at 70mph!?!? You must be mad bro! I think 2100rpm at 60mph is too high! LOL.
 
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Why would a bad IP produce blue smoke? Wouldn't it more likely produce white or grey smoke? I associate blue smoke with burning crankcase oil.
 

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A 6.5 with 4.10 gears at 70mph!?!? You must be mad bro! I think 2100rpm at 60mph is too high! LOL.
I do 70-75mph all the time with mine. Can't say it's a pleasure but it's not unbearable. I'd love to have 3.42's
 

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Maybe ill make it out this summer and learn something from you:HiHi:
I saw the thread from when you bought this truck a while back. You may beat me to getting these battery cables built. Got a ton on my plate here good luck with getting this truck up:thumb:
 

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I have the red in my current truck when I first got it the radio had took a crap on me and all I could find was a stinking blue radio dash install piece for it. :confuzeld
 

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Why would a bad IP produce blue smoke? Wouldn't it more likely produce white or grey smoke? I associate blue smoke with burning crankcase oil.
It would not rev above 1200rpm. The smoke was unburnt fuel. A 91 6.2 that I had did the same thing when the IP went bad.
There had been trouble with this IP previously. I found a receipt from a diesel shop in the glove box. I wouldn't rule out that the internal filter screen in the IP is all gummed up. I'll be pulling it apart to look after the replacement IP is on.
 

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IP removal today

:hole: I started on the IP swap today.
Since there wasn't any batteries in this truck, I didn't have the need to disconnect them. I did remove the side to side connecting battery cable since it will be replaced with a new custom cable. I removed both ground cables also. They will be replaced too.
Next, I unplugged the wiring harness from the A/C, coolant temp switch, cold advance, shut off and fast idle solenoid. I pulled the harness back and tucked it behind the transmission dipstick to keep it out of the way. The upper intake was next. The RTV I had used on the rubber connector hose worked very well. I needed to get a thin screwdriver under the hose to get things un-stuck.

Removing Fuel Filter Manager from the intake was next. Remove the 2 bolts and push back to let it drop down out of the way. THe rear bracket from the alternator need to be removed also.
Then I was ready to remove all the lower intake manifold bolts/bolt-studs. Once they were all removed I took the high pressure injector lines loose from the brackets over the valve covers to get enough "give" in the lined to remove the injector line hold downs that are held down by the intake bolts. Lower Intake removed.
Removing the high pressure injector lines was next. The tin heat shield between the passenger side exhaust manifold is the first thing to come off. There are only t small screws[8mm heads] that hold it at the top. It is slid down on 2 tabs coming from a bracket over the valve cover. This took a bit if wiggling and prying to get off those tabs. A bit more maneuvering:boxing: to get out from between the manifold and valve cover. Next I took the lines loose from all the injectors. This really wasn't as hard as it looked to be at first. Then on to the connections on the IP. I took as many as I could loose with a 5/8 open end wrench. Then went to the crowsfoot open end wrench on a socket extension. I leave the separator clamps on the pairs of lines and remove them as a pair. It's much easier putting them back on in pairs since they will only go on one way then:idea:.
Next up is removing the IP. I took the 2 lower IP mounting nuts off the studs. I have a special wrench that I use especially for the passenger side lower nut. :mad::banghead: It works great on the newer DS4 IPs but not on this DB2. A long 15mm box end wrench worked but was slow going.
Next I needed room to work and see , so I removed the upper fan shroud and the fan-clutch assembly. The oil fill tube needs to come off for access to the bolts that hold the IP drive gear on. The engine needs to be turned over by hand to get the bolts to line up in the filler tube hole. Care needs to be taken not to drop these bolts into the timing cover. Once all 3 bolts were out, I removed the last nut holding the IP to the timing cover. I pulled the IP straight back to get it off the gear and out of the timing cover housing. Once out I looked at the drive end of the IP and the alignment dowl was not where it should have been on the hub:eek::eek:. Luckily it was stuck in the gear yet and hadn't fallen inside the timing cover.:clap:
That was it for today. Replacement IP should go on tomorrow:thumb:
 

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Awesome idea using foam for the intake ports!!!! i definitely gotta do that on mine so i can work and clean things better!!! :thumb:
 
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