Last weekend I was able to get my injectors replaced! I bought a set of 8 from ebay user "moneyslave" a few weeks ago ($275 shipped) and dropped them off at a local (kind of) injector shop to have them tested and popped to 2200 psi( $70.00). I then ordered an injector install "kit" from Kennedy diesel(~$35.00):
Got the old Mercedes and the wifes Pontiac out of the garage so the truck could fit in to get out of the wind.
This is what we are starting with:
I decided that I would do the driver's side first, them start the truck to "prime" that side before I dove into the passenger side. This was definately a good idea, as I had no trouble starting the truck at any time, and I never had to bleed anything to get it started.
I started with the first two cylinders by removing that small bolt holding the lines on (right next to the oil dipstick). Then I removed the injector line nut (19mm) and just pushed those two injector lines out of the way. There is plenty of flex in them to do this. I would not recommend bending them.
I used a Kent detroit diesel injector socket (30mm) to remove and install my injectors. I got it for around $30 on amazon. I could have bought a deep 30mm for about half that locally, but I had issues using an over the counter socket when I did injectors on my mercedes 300sd and really wished I would have bought the appropriate one them, so I layed out the cash for this:
(BTW if anyone needs to borrow it you are more than welcome as long as you lay out $35 deposit....not sure why this board doesn't have a tool loaner program......I digress.)
Here is the new injector, ready to go in. Notice the molykote on the threads. Anytime something with threads comes out of my engine, it gets this before it goes back in. Also notice that I kept the plastic cap on the injector while installing it and only removed it to install the injector line nut back on. This keeps any crap from getting in there.
The back two on the DS are pretty much the same with a little less room due to the master cylinder and brake lines.
So, like I said, once that side was done I fired it up for about a minute them killed it in preperation for the PS. Some say this can be done with the turbo left on there. For me, it seemed like it would be easier with the turbo off, so that's what I did.
The start of interference removal:
My buddy pulling the wheel to start getting out the inner fender.
Turbo is out. The only hard part of this is getting the drain line nuts off. Also, I didn't think to buy a gasket for the drain line, so in the middle of this we went to the parts store and got some high temp paper gasket and made one.
Here is the shot with the turbo removed. This access is why I wanted to remove the turbo
I can see how one would do it with the turbo on there, but it only added another hour or so to get the wheel, inner fender, and turbo out so that is what we did.
All in all this job took about 6 hours with a run to the parts store in there, and plenty of BS time.
Now, after having them in there for almost a week I can tell you that the truck does start better, meaning there is less crank time. It does run smoother while idleing. I still have a vibration somewhere, but it is much better now. The butt dyno seems to notice an increase, but it may all be in my head. I don't know if the injectors I removed factory (180,000) but they were all Bosch (made in Germany) so I will probably be having them tested, to see what condition they were in. The having them rebuilt and either put on the shelf as spares, or sell. I don't know yet.