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Since everyone is talking about replacing glow plugs, what steps are involved, testing GPs, etc; I thought I would take a few pics today while I replaced mine.

While it hasn't gotten too cold here in N Texas it has been in the upper 20s a few times, and colder weather is coming. I have been having some starting problems, well, at least to me they are problems. The truck always starts, it just doesn't do it quick. I sometimes have to crank for about 5 seconds before it starts, and I know it will work better than that with the right parts. So first step is new glow plugs.

I had no documentation as to when or if they had ever been changed in the past, so i ordered 8 Duraterms from RA for $59 shipped. (Use the coupon code found on this site)

All the GPs came out very easy and they were all AC Delco 9Gs.

Here is the DS:




Dead easy to do. I do have the wires off the terminals as I was about to check voltage to them.

The PS is a little more difficult, but not by any means hard to do. You can save yourself lots of time by just jacking it up, removing the wheel/tire, and removing the inner fender. This takes an extra ~20 minutes to do, but will save you time in the long run of trying to wrestle sockets, extensions, U-joints down to the glowplugs on this side.

Here is what you see with the inner fender off:



Three of the four on this side are very easy to do now. The third back is hidden behind my Diamond Eye down pipe. Again, I had the wires off to check voltage.

Here are some more shots:

The first two from the front of the engine:



The rearmost one:



To get at the third one back not much needs to be done except to remove the clamp from the DP and slide the DP outboard to gain access. I didn't touch the flange under the truck, only the clamp. Then I moved it about 4 inches outboard and that gave me all the room I needed. I got this:



Easy!

I used moly kote on all the GPs before I installed them and also tested them with a DMM and battery/jumper cables prior to intallation.

All my old and new GPs showed good on the DMM.....~1.5 ohms.

This is a typical Duraterm being tested after about 10 seconds:



Supprisingly, this is a typical removed 9G being tested, although they took about 15 seconds to look like this:



So, I might have replaced 8 good glow plugs, with 8 new glow plugs, but at least that is done and I can move onto other things to help my truck start better like batteries, starter, etc. I'll make a thread on that too, i'm sure :)

Overall, this is a very easy job that most anyone can do in their driveway.


Tools List:

10mm deep socket (GPs)
13mm and 14mm socket for inner fender bolts
various extensions and ratchets ( i used a 6" and 2" extension with 3/8" drive ratchet)
Needle nose pliars (for removing terminal plugs)
DMM
Jumper cables

Whatever YOUR truck needs to get the inner fender off. I have an S&B CAI, so that requires some other things I won't mention here, use common sense.

Jack and jackstand.

Good Luck!
 

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Just Horsing Around
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Good post, I was just thinking this morning that we really needed a "reference" style post on the glowplug replacement process.

The only things I would add is this:

1/ PREPARE! If your plugs haven't been removed recently (or ever that you know) there's a good chance they are going to be difficult, and they can and DO break off. If this happens, things get messy.

So....PREPARE! For 3 or 4 days before you plan to do the job get a can of penetrating oil (I personally used WD40) and soak the crap out of the glowplugs on both sides of the engine, several times per day. Do it when it's cold..do it when it's hot. Do it often.

You can't really see some of the passenger side glowplugs from above but look where the wires are and spray in their general direction fro above (or any angle you can accomplish) and let it run down the heads - it will run down onto the GP's and soak them.

As for your experience with the 9G's, well, a lot of the problem probably had to do with the time it takes for them to glow that much - the stock glow cycle will not really cycle them for that long, so a "normal" ECM controlled cycle would probably yield a lot less heat - and less heat is your enemy here. The new Duratherms heat up to almost full output much quicker, and you don't have to worry about them ever swelling either (like the 9G's are known to do) if you ever over-glow.

For those with the stock exhaust system (factory downpipe) I have read that you can replace the plugs without needing to remove the pipe, but for those with aftermarket systems and larger downpipes (as you experienced) have no choice since the downpipe completely blocks the rearward plugs.

I agree 1000% on removing the inner fender. I cannot immagine why, for the 20 minutes it takes, you would not go this method - you get 100% better access to the glowplugs this way, can see what your'e doing, get a better angle on them with your tools (important when trying to avoid breaking them off), and its' just generally a better way to go.

And most of all...PREPARE! :HiHi: Spray, spray, spray.. soak those glowplugs down so they are easy to remove when you get started.
 

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And most of all...PREPARE! :HiHi: Spray, spray, spray.. soak those glowplugs down so they are easy to remove when you get started.

Yea, I should mention that this has been a TX truck since '94 so I never really have a problem with sticking bolts and what nots, but anywhere north of the mason-dixon...be prepared.:)
 

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I replaced my glowplugs when I rebuilt the engine with Delphi's, and I never really had an issue starting due to glowplugs, but I got a set of ACDelco 60gs for cheap through a buddy and replaced them while the inner fender was out for the turbo swap.

I also agree for the time it takes to remove the inner fender (I got it down to under 5 mins) it's well worth the time compared to doing the work topside.

It also gives you a chance to deal with rust, fix or prevent issues that you wouldn't have seen otherwise. I had to put a new spade connector on one of the glowplug wires, old one wouldn't stay on, would have been a pain to deal with one morning the truck wouldn't of started for me when its freezing out.

Another fine job Sporty.
 

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I replaced my glowplugs when I rebuilt the engine with Delphi's, and I never really had an issue starting due to glowplugs, but I got a set of ACDelco 60gs for cheap through a buddy and replaced them while the inner fender was out for the turbo swap.

I also agree for the time it takes to remove the inner fender (I got it down to under 5 mins) it's well worth the time compared to doing the work topside.

It also gives you a chance to deal with rust, fix or prevent issues that you wouldn't have seen otherwise. I had to put a new spade connector on one of the glowplug wires, old one wouldn't stay on, would have been a pain to deal with one morning the truck wouldn't of started for me when its freezing out.

Another fine job Sporty.
There are some grounds that can be addressed when you have it off also I like to clean them then I spray them with Red Oxide
 

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Good point on the grounds. Get as much stuff done as you can whole you have the inner fender out!

RDM...I love you GP harness. I'm getting that and the batt cables as soon as I can.
 

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Good point on the grounds. Get as much stuff done as you can whole you have the inner fender out!

RDM...I love you GP harness. I'm getting that and the batt cables as soon as I can.
Thanks Im pretty proud of them my self, Those grounds take quite a beating down there and rarely get seen The one I replaced with the cable was broke in half, I had the downpipe off too in that pic, again There is just no sense in not taking the inner fender out when doing this
 

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Super Moderator A Country Boy Can Survive...
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That 9G you held on for ~15 seconds is probably dead now. The 9G was notorious for swelling up and then burning out with anything over stock glow plug time.

I had a huge fight with one in my K-5 during removal.

I'm amazed it came out.

Here's what was left after over 2 hours of fighting with vice grips.



Yes the element is busted in half. Don't know how it came out in "one" piece.
 

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That 9G you held on for ~15 seconds is probably dead now. The 9G was notorious for swelling up and then burning out with anything over stock glow plug time.

I had a huge fight with one in my K-5 during removal.

I'm amazed it came out.

Here's what was left after over 2 hours of fighting with vice grips.



Yes the element is busted in half. Don't know how it came out in "one" piece.
I would call that "Lucky" lol
 

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That 9G you held on for ~15 seconds is probably dead now. The 9G was notorious for swelling up and then burning out with anything over stock glow plug time.

I had a huge fight with one in my K-5 during removal.

I'm amazed it came out.

Here's what was left after over 2 hours of fighting with vice grips.



Yes the element is busted in half. Don't know how it came out in "one" piece.
No idea either luck as they call it.. Maybe the heat was great enough to "tac weld" the end to the shaft of the element. Dam good luck..
And also when you remove your GP's guys run the #'s on google to see what they were.. mine were borg warners that is what they came out on good as. Funny thing about that I actually had a set lined up at the diesel shop in town that a guy never picked up. Then they were sold when i wanted to buy em lol. i truly found that ironic..
And I didnt prepare for mine. DavedieselIII did mine.. seemed as if they came right out. I regret not preparing though. Maybe the process wouldve been easier.
 
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