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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My remote locks stopped working a couple days ago, so I figured it was just the battery. So I got out the other one, it doesn't work either. The power locks/Unlock works just fine when you press the button on the door, I have checked all fuses and could not find any related to the remote, the relays must be good b/c the power locks still work. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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Just found this thread. Does your "emergency/panic" button work on either key fob? If not, I would start with the unit which receives the signal and work down from there. I'm not sure where/what that is though. Sorry I can't be of much help.
 

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Does the internal lock/unlock work? By using the switch, I know this is ultra rare but a guy I used to work with shorted somthing when doing an older remote start(relay Packs) and the keyfob went tits up. In the end the keyfobs had to be reprogamed because it "forgot' ....I doubt its that severe, but it can happen apparently/


OFF TOPIC: how hard of a swap was your 350 in the commando? I have a 69 and the 225 is giving me a hell of a time in the winter..

GO BRONCOS!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea my interior locks work fine, I haven't done anything to it so I don't know where to start, I might have to give up and go to the dealer.
The 350 swap is essentially a whole drivetrain swap, I had to get rid of the t-86 3 speed, D20 t case and D30 and D27 axles, there was no way they would stand up to the power. The only fitment problem I have had is the distributor to firewall clearance (you have to pull the engine to take it out), the only other was the radiator clearance, I had to get a better aluminum radiator, I had to cut the shroud all the way down so the radiator is close to the front of the grill. I used a TBI motor so I rewired the whole thing. I am still working on other stuff, and money is tight so I havent had a chance to take it out yet
 

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Wow that is alot to do, I really havent had any trouble with the tranny suprisingly. I was also thinking a GM 6 banger crate engine I saw at the junkyard in an s-10 but it looks to long....and again the tranny issue comes ino play, why can nothing be easy
 

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oh and it might be your keyless entry module, I have never worked on the factory one but if it is getting power then somthing inside is shot and not recieveing the commands, It may be a good time to go to an aftermarket security or remote start.
 

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I would have key fobs checked at the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Took it to the dealer yesterday, they checked the key fobs, both good. Then they tried to program it with a tech 2, he spent 15 minutes with it, it seemed to work to me, the locks were working the horn honking and all that stuff. He got out and told me that it loads and then stops communicating with the BCM. Does this sound right? I trust the dealer and all but then he told me $600 to fix. I can live with using my keys to get in, but I would like to have my keyless back, its only 4 years old! So here it is, where is the BCM, how hard would it be to replace it (do I need a tech 2 to reprogram it?) and how much, could I buy it from a junk yard?
 

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Get an aftermarket setup, Its about $130 For a keyless package and it basically pulses the door lock/unlock wires. they are easy to do
 

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Here is your Wiring setup:

12volts red + ignition harness
Starter yellow + ignition harness
Ignition pink + ignition harness
Power Lock lt. blue + brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11.
Power Unlock white + brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11.
Lock Motor gray 5wi driver kick panel
Unlock Motor tan 5wi driver kick panel
Parking Lights+ brown + lt. blue plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11.
Parking Lights- white - lt. blue plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11.
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Door Trigger - BCM
Notes: Use tan for the drivers door located in pin B4 of the purple plug, and for the passenger door it will be a orange in pin B2 in the purple plug or dk.blue/white in pin B11 of the lt.blue plug, must diode isolate these wires.

The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11.
Dome Supervision
Trunk/Hatch Release
Power Sliding Door
Factory Alarm Arm
Factory Alarm Disarm lt. green - driver kick panel
Notes: Also found in the purple plug of the BCM.
Disarm No Unlock
Horn Trigger black - brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. The parking lights are in pin A5 and the headlights are in pin A11.
Memory Seat 1
Memory Seat 2
Memory Seat 3
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
Passlock II
Part #: 556LW
Alternate Part1 #: 555LW
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes:
Interface Module: Category:
Door Lock Interface Required:
No Type:
N/A
Part #: N/A
Notes:
Interface Module: Category:
Combo Interface Required:
Yes Type:
Data Bus
Part #: 457GW
Notes: Can use the 457GW to bypass the Passlock II, but it will not control the door locks on this model year.
 
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