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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished my re-man installation today(sort of).
It won't start.

I get fuel to the IP but nothing in the fuel injectors. I checked a few injectors by loosening the injection line and left them loose to see if any air bleeds out but nothing comes out.

I am looking for some ideas to try at this point. Lift pump is working great so no issues there.

I am wondering if my timing can be so far off that it wouldn't get fuel?

I put in a reman IP from SS Diesel so things should be ok there as well.

Any ideas are appreciated.
 

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First thing to look for is properly functioning instrument panel lights.

Wait to start light coming on for a reasonable length of time and going off.

Other panel lights acting normal?
 

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Check the ground for the fuel shut-off. If the lift pump is working, then the IP is getting fuel. If you have no fuel at the injectors, then the cut-off is not functioning properly. Also, when you take out an engine, you lose fuel from the lines and injectors, and you need to crank for a while before you get fire again.

Hope you get it figured out,
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Horsehaulin;1555230; said:
Check the ground for the fuel shut-off. If the lift pump is working, then the IP is getting fuel. If you have no fuel at the injectors, then the cut-off is not functioning properly. Also, when you take out an engine, you lose fuel from the lines and injectors, and you need to crank for a while before you get fire again.

Hope you get it figured out,
Tony
Which one is the ground for the fuel shut off? The fuel shut of is on top of the IP correct. So if the connector is connected it should be ok correct?

I cranked it until the batteries were almost run down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DavidPhillips;1554722; said:
First thing to look for is properly functioning instrument panel lights.

Wait to start light coming on for a reasonable length of time and going off.

Other panel lights acting normal?
Everything on the instrument panel is correct and normal. Wait to start light is the same as before. I did see a mistery large connector next the firewall last night but if I recall there was one there before I started. I couldn't find a matching one.
 

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The ground should connect to the IP. When you trun on the key, you should be able to hear it operate if you put an old heater hose to your ear. Ground should be easy to locate as it is one of the only few wires on the DB2.

Do you have fuel to the brass tee?

Keep us posted, we'll try to help get her running,

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Horsehaulin;1555241; said:
The ground should connect to the IP. When you trun on the key, you should be able to hear it operate if you put an old heater hose to your ear. Ground should be easy to locate as it is one of the only few wires on the DB2.

Do you have fuel to the brass tee?

Keep us posted, we'll try to help get her running,

Tony
Fuel comes out the brass tee and the bleeder on top of the fuel filter. The ground on top of the ip came attached. I was wondering if I should remove it and hit it with some emory cloth. Looks like the reman inj. pump was painted with the IP ground off. I was told this ground is for the PMD on a prior post though.

Thanks for the quick help so far.
 

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The large connector sounds like the harness that goes under the intake.

Any codes on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All intake sensors/connectors were/are attached. No codes but then again, since it won't start the check engine light typically stays on anyway until it starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I cracked a few injectors and have some fuel but I don't think enough to pop the injectors. Batteries are almost out again so I need to take a break.
 

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Your going to need atleast 850 RPM to start the engine, if you are starting to get fuel at the injectors, then give it a few more times and see if they start to pop. These are low pressure/volume injectors, a trickle means you are bleeding out the system. It has taken my father two hours of cranking to get some of our old trucks to start in the past. Keep cracking the lines until you have good fuel out of atleast three of them.

Also, give the starter a 10 min break after three times of cranking for 30 seconds. And give 1 min between cranks, that way you save the starter.

My bet is the IP was dried out for shipping reasons in a matter of speach. It might take a little while to get the fuel through the IP and down line to the injectors.

Let us know,
Tony
 

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There is probably air pockets in the lines, but a little cranking, like Horsehaulin said, should do the trick. The starters for these trucks are not that expensive, like I thought, but definately give em a brake. Good Luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another update that I forgot to post yesterday. I do have fuel in the return.(I have a sight glass in there so it's easy to see). I am assuming this must be return from the IP only at this point correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have another stupid question. I have been cranking without the fuel pedal depressed. Since the engine is "fly by wire" would it help to depress the fuel pedal to get the lines primed faster or is the PCM going to adjust the amount of fuel without the pedal depressed?
 

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It's worth a try.

It might be better with the ECT unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tried cranking more and giving it a pedal push while cranking. Re-checked connections. I am still only getting tiny bits of fuel at the injectors. I have 4 cracked open and nothing leaking out of the injectors at the loose fitting. Plenty of return fuel.

Any other ideas or do I need to just take it to the garage at this point? I was thinking maybe the crank sensor since it came out of my old engine pretty hard. The wire is still in good shape but I am not sure what else to test on this sensor to verify it is working.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Unplug the ECT, crank sensor, and optical sensor. Then try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I know where the ECT and crank sensor are. Which connector is the optical?
 

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It's on top of the IP.

Has a pin through the clip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
DavidPhillips;1559374; said:
It's on top of the IP.

Has a pin through the clip.
tried it and still nothing. now i'm thinking i bit off more than i could chew.:(
 
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