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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have detailed step by step instructions on how to rebuild a Differential and how to overhaul the entire rearend? ...

I plan to go from 4.10 to 3.08 on my pick-up
 

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What axle are you running in the rear?
 

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I found my instructions on the internet, try Randy's Ring and Pinnion site, or just do a search.

They are easy to do, but getting a good gear pattern can take a little time. I did the front and rear in my K5, had the differential and pinnion in and out several times before I had it right. Of course the pros can whip these things out pretty fast but I am glad I did my own.

The set up on a 14 bolt is a lot different than a 10 bolt or the 9 1/2, I assume you have a 14 bolt or the 9 1/2.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
axle

What axle are you running in the rear?
right now i got 4.10 original from GM . It is 10 bolt patern 8.5 inchs
I plan to do the job for experience.:)

The 3.08 gearset with Eaton gov lock, come from my previus van (body gone) ,i already replace engine+trans(th700r)combo into my beloved pickup but the rpm is way to high if i compare at what it was before in my van.
Too bad the width of the differential is not the same ,3 extra inches.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Randy's Ring and Pinnion

I found my instructions on the internet, try Randy's Ring and Pinnion site, or just do a search.

They are easy to do, but getting a good gear pattern can take a little time. I did the front and rear in my K5, had the differential and pinnion in and out several times before I had it right. Of course the pros can whip these things out pretty fast but I am glad I did my own.
What i have is a G-80 10 bolt 8.5 inch with eaton gov loc and cannot find nothing on how to reinstall it into my existing differential housing.

For the inch tork wrench what u use ? Do you have a conversion chart or you buy that specific tool?
 

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I hesitate to give you advice on setting up a ring and pinion. The main reason is because I have seen so many set up wrong.
I will try to give you an over view, but get a manual for reference, prefferably a factory gm manual.

For starters, you will need some special tools: A dial indicator and magnetic base, bearing spreader and puller, inch pound torque wrench(beam type).

Start with checking the backlash of your existing gear sets. They will need to be set to the same measurement on the reinstall. If you are going to be cheap and reuse the bearings, assuming they are in very good condition, you must keep the races matched to the bearing that it was originally with. If a bearing is questionable, replace it.

Remove gears and bearings from housings, including races. Keep carrier shims located side to side, but you probably will have to buy adjustable select fit carrier shims in a set up kit from someone like randy's. The factory cast shims are ground to the needed dimension and very likely won't work when changing gears to a different housing.

Install 3.08 pinion and bearings in other housing. Don't install crush sleeve or seal at this time. Install yoke and tighten nut so there is a very slight drag or about 10 inch pounds of resistance (used bearings)

Install carrier and shims, adjust shim thickness to get the same backlash as you had in the other housing. Measuring shims is necessary to get this right, as about .003 change in shim will change backlash about .001. Opposite side shims need to be enough to put a slight preload on the carrier bearings.

I can do these in my sleep, but a lot of the set up has to do with feel and experience. I recommend taking the housings to a shop that specializes in gear swaps, like a 4x4 shop. You could probably save some money if you took every thing apart and cleaned the housings.

The last step is checking the pattern of the gears with gear marking compound. Find a good chart to show you what you are looking for, and better yet, check the pattern before taking the gears out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How to do it

[quoteD. Camilleri I hesitate to give you advice on setting up a ring and pinion. The main reason is because I have seen so many set up wrong.
,quote]

I am not a specialist or nothing but i learn a lot of trick on this site and i am the type of guy who whant do do it by myself accurately the first time .

I got the time and the place and a comprehencive wife so why not .

i alway find it rewarding when the job is done and never deal with garanty so far in 20 years.

Thank's alot D. Camilleri with the internet info from Rand'y and your advice i go ahead next week end.


sorry for my bad spelling:eek: It's English with a FRENCH accent;)

but im learning so far.
 

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If you run into a snag along the way give me a pm and I will try to help.;)
 

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I'll give you the best advice you'll receive in this thread. That advice is to totally scrap the Gov-loc differential, and find an open carrier. These things are total nightmares, and when they go, they usually take out the ring and pinion. Just want to let you know so you'll have the best possible setup with what axle you are running.

This is what I pulled out of my 10 bolt when the Gov-loc decided to go south. From now on, only 14B rear axles and open/detroit differentials are used.
 

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nice job of destruction! Gov locs locking mechanism is to strong for it's own good. The only one's that survive well is the 14b full floater, even the 11.5 gov locs are being grenaded in the Dmax's but then they are traction adders not drag strip spools.:eek: But if you want to trade a gov loc for an open carrier, I will trade.
 
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