Yes, there should be enough wire.

You are not raising the whole FFM by 9 inches.
The top of the FFM will be around 9 inches but the bottom is just slightly above the top of the upper intake.

 

Good to know that I shouldn't have to do any wiring modifications.....Thank you sir! Would you happen to have a pic of your setup that you could post?

 

Here you go:

DSCF4874.JPG

6.5L FFM Raised

www.dieselplace.com

 

Nice! Have you had any problems with engine vibrations snapping the threaded rods? I bought some hardened threaded rod just in case. Thanks.

 

I used the old bracket as a half way point to hold the threaded rod and some rubber washer between the nuts to reduce vibration.
Pic was taken before that was put in there.

 

I used the old bracket as a half way point to hold the threaded rod and some rubber washer between the nuts to reduce vibration.
Pic was taken before that was put in there.

Mine didn't have that bracket you were talkin about....must have been removed before I got the truck in 2010.....decided to beef it up with the pipes. With tension on those rods it seems to be pretty solid. Time will tell.....

 

I like the rubber washer idea.....but not sure what you mean by using the "old bracket" ?

 

You will see it when you work on the truck and taking off the FFM.
I assume that you have not done the work yet?

 

No sir, have not done anything yet. Does this bracket hold the lower end of the FFM when mounted in the stock position? Sorry for all the questions but you seem to have all the answers! Lol

 

A journey of a thousand mile start with the first step.

You will see what I am talking about when you start doing the work.
It is not a rocket science.

The thread is M10-1.50, I got 1 meter and that can be cut to 3 pieces of appx 9 inches length.
That is the way they sell it at Fastenal.

 

Got it. Thanks for all the info....

 

Update....finally got around to raising my FFM yesterday. Replaced all fuel hoses associated with it and the fuel return hose. New EP158 LP and Acdelco OPS, and a LP relay harness with WTS priming from Leroy. Thanks JMJ for your input.....

 

Update....finally got around to raising my FFM yesterday. Replaced all fuel hoses associated with it and the fuel return hose. New EP158 LP and Acdelco OPS, and a LP relay harness with WTS priming from Leroy. Thanks JMJ for your input..... View attachment 644146 View attachment 644147

I like the way you put the piping in place.At least there’s no chance of the threaded rod flexing,etc.It certainly strengthen things that way.Good job👍

 

Nice clean looking engine bay there!

 

Thanks.....removing that old, crumbling firewall insulation really makes it look a lot cleaner. It was coming loose and falling forward. It makes working on anything at the rear of the engine a heck of a lot easier too....GP relay, OPS, fuel lines, etc.

 

I like it. What kind of pipe did you use?

 

It is black coated schedule 40 steel pipe....for gas and air applications. Is 3/8 inch....had to order it from HomeDepot as they never had that size on the shelf. Was threaded on both ends....just cut them off. Ended up making the pipes 7 3/4 inches long and the rods 9 3/4 inches, allowing for about an inch to screw into the manifold. Got the 36 inch pipe, was about $10. Free shipping to the store for pickup. Thought about painting them, but that black coating is supposed to be rust resistant so I left it alone.

 

Update: I did this FFM mod a little over 4 years ago, and has been working fine.....until a couple days ago. I had popped the hood to check things out, like I usually do, and noticed the pass side pipe and threaded rod was gone......nuts, washers, everything. It was like somebody had taken it apart. So I climbed up there for a better look and found the threaded rod had snapped off flush with the manifold. All the parts fell straight down and were sitting next to the valve cover and in the valley. The pipe, broken rod, lock washer, flat washer, and nut were all there. Luckily I had only hand tightened the rods into the manifold, and with a little tapping and turning the broken piece came out easily. I had some extra threaded rod so I cut a new piece and put it back together. I put more torque on the mounting nuts this time to increase tension on the threaded rods to help reduce flexing, and will check them more often. One thing is for sure.....these engines put out some serious vibrations.

 

Yes it does.

 

Have you had any problems with your threaded rods breaking? I figured adding the pipes would have prevented them from snapping off at the manifold like that. Maybe it was a fluke! Lol.

 

I think you're always going to be fighting vibration with this setup. I would think that fabricating a bracket similar to that which held the electrical connections behind the FFM, and then mounting it from the fire wall above it, would be a better solution to the threaded rods.

Steve

 

You may be right about that.....I definitely like having it raised with the fuel lines up above the manifold. Mounting to the firewall would eliminate the vibration problem.

 

My method of hanging it off one ear off the middle back bolt of the upper plenum still seems fine. Nothing has broken or come loose. Looks like 7 ish years now. Dang seems more recent than that.

https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/alternate-raise-the-ffm-option.941617/?post_id=9427401#post-9427401

 

Ok, now i gotta fabricate somethibg to secure all this.

Mine is just laying in the back loose.

Pics to come.

 

Sometimes too strong is a problem especially when its long and heat cycles are involved. Maybe having a decent amount of stretch would be the ticket for this sort of application? If its too strong when say the pipes expand it just ain't strong enough to hold.

 

I hear what you're sayin....maybe the hardened rod is more prone to shearing off or breaking as it could be more brittle than a non-hardened rod. But, these lasted over 4 years so it's not a huge deal. I have some replacement rods precut and ready to go just in case. If it happens again I may try to fab up a bracket and mount it on the firewall......that would pretty much eliminate the vibration problem.