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Discussion Starter #1
First fuel filter changes on truck. Filters were changed @ 8500 miles on truck. The secondary filter was added @ 3600 miles so it has 3600 miles without secondary filter and 4900 miles with secondaryfilter. No rust in OEM. Both look pretty good. Think I can probably go 15K on OEM and 8K on secondary? Have been using Primrose 405 since 1K miles.





 

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wow.........

Best looking filters Ive seen so far. Im running 405 too and nic too. Now im glad I switched.
 

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Additive makes a difference, I'm convinced. Here's my OEM with 12K, every tank with FPPF.


 

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Here's my 6th filter with over 13,000 miles on the media:





I'm SOOOOO worried that my use of FPPF is "ruining" my injectors with steam explosions and I'd better avoid the Fatcat who'll rat me out for using an emulsifier additive, because he's such an honest and righteous Tech - RIGHT!
 

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I have used Stanadyne Performance Formula since the truck was new and have not seen rust in any of my filters either.



More filter pics

IMHO, the rusty filters we have seen were (pre) rusted when they were installed. I bought a six pack of RACOR OEM filters, and three were rusted when I received them in the mail. The vendor sent me three replacements and one of those was rusted - four out of nine were bad, not good. Hopefully RACOR this under control now, but I would highly recommend that everyone carefully inspect the WIF sensor opening on the OEM filter using a mirror (dental mirror works good) before installing. The vendor I purchased from said that the corrosion was caused by a process problem when the filter was made and that the surface treatment on a "good" filter should prevent rust in normal operation.

(Flame suit on)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pre-OEM ... Picts of install in sig link. I'll be changing to the R90S filter after this next filter as I got a good deal on a half dozen. Same filter just a little longer.
 

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WOW, That's clean, hope mine looks that good.
 

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I think some of you are getting bad fuel, with the way some of your filters look. I have 35,000 on my truck and have changed the fuel filter 3 times. I don't have any pictures, but I have no reason to lie, and all of my fuel filter looked just like Tophog's. I run no additive and no secondary fuel filter. Truck runs perfectly and have had no problems with it other than the steering clunk, not fixed yet. Maybe down the road I will wish that I did run additive and a second fuel filter, but for right now I am happy and for the next 65,000 miles, GM the General will have to worry about it.
 

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tophog,


Does that filter setup have the WIF sensor? I didn't see any wires. Also, any trouble with losing prime after a shutdown or filter change?


JP
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BTW, I live in Oregon ... try to get fuel at the same place but not very often. I do most of my fueling at the Pacific Pride card lock systems ... usually from one of the three local stations every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Heartbeat Hauler said:
tophog,


Does that filter setup have the WIF sensor? I didn't see any wires. Also, any trouble with losing prime after a shutdown or filter change?


JP

No WIF or heater ... IMO another WIF is useless ... I think the OEM WIF is adequate for detecting water. I've always tried to look at the clear bowl on the secondary filter now and then ... I have yet to see any droplets of water in the bowl nor have had to drain water...then again with using Primrose 405 I wouldn't expect to see any water build up unless I got a load of fuel contaminated with lots of water...then the OEM WIF better detect it.
 

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Think I can probably go 15K on OEM and 8K on secondary? Have been using Primrose 405 since 1K miles.


I have a similar set-up (though plumbed in differently). It has been installed since July, 2003. Using the R60S in a Pre-OEM position. The question in my mind has been "how far can I go?". My original thought was to change the R60S at 7.5k miles and the OEM at 15k miles. I know the OEM will not be a problem at 15k miles. Looking at your pictures, the R60S should be no problem at 7.5k miles. Edited by: OC_DMAX
 

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JP:


if your question is directed to me the answer is no the WIF option is not hooked up. I figure the WIF in the OEM filter is good enough for now as well as the fuel heater.


To All:


Please note: when you click on that link you have to scroll down to see my RACOR secondary fuel filter setup. http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2839&PN=10&TPN=1 Also my OEM filter has looked like the ones above on this thread.........Huffdaddy...





Edited by: shuffman
 

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Thanks. I am still contemplating the secondary filter and there seems to be pros & cons with doing it, not doing it, this vendor & that vendor. I'm leaning toward the Racor unit, but I think with it being so exposed(on the frame rail)that a heater option or at least a splash guard might be a good idea.


JP
 

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JP:


Why not put it under the hood like mine?? It's well protected, much easier to service and no need for a heater.........................Steve...
 

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Steve,


I thought about that, but I am concerned about the loss of prime I read about here on the forum. Also, It may be more obvious to the dealer during service....that whole warranty thing. I think I am going to the dealer tomorrow and talk with the manager to see how they actually feel about it. If I get an OK I may do the engine compartment route w/liftpump.


JP
 

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JP,


FWIW, I have my FM100 pre-filter/Lift pump on the frame in front of the fuel cooler and it stays very clean considering it's under the truck - even in our nasty upstate NY winters. It's actually fairly protected since it's on the inside of the frame. Unless you regularly go off road I wouldn't worry about it. You could try it with out a cover and add one later if you think you still need it. I also agree that a heater would be a good idea when using a 2-micon element in the winter.


Edited by: jbplock
 
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