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Discussion Starter #1
I installed the thermocoupler for my autometer pyro tonight.

Followed the instructions in this thread from the FAQ and have a couple of footnotes.

1. If you disconnect both batteries, you won't be able to start the motor to blow out bits of debris from drilling and/or tapping. But you won't remember you disconnected both batteries until after you find a hose to route the exhaust out of the garage.

2. There is a little (like 1/4") machine screw right near the bumper that you won't find until you try to remove the inner fender.

3. Holding the earth magnet from inside a disk drive along the drillbit is a wonderful way to pull metal shavings out instead of letting them fall inside the exhaust.

4. Slathering your tap with grease instead of cutting oil will help tremendously in keeping shavings out of the exhaust.

5. Air tools are your friend.

6. Yes, your stock downpipe is smashed, regardless of how well your truck runs.



Gauges and boost line will have to wait for another day, but the thermocoupler is in.
 

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The screw you are talking about is step 6 in my post ;) and yes, the stock downpipe is toasted on everyones rigs.
 

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I saw the forklift truck dent in the pipe long before I removed it.

I was astounded by the NUMBER of dents in the thing once I got it out. The only way I can account for all downpipes being equally damaged is that GM at one point tried to move away from overland shipping and experimented with airdropping downpipes from 41,000 ft.
 

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That condition was direct result of shipping the oem process across the border, not cross-country shipping.

The print called for two dimples - one to clear a bolt, and one to clear a front suspension assembly.

I think it should probably be classified as an extension of the Montezuma's revenge syndrome............
 

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My 3/4 ton wasn't badly crushed at all; only a little dimple here and there. After I saw it, I wish I hadn't spent the money to replace it.
 

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When they are shipped in bulk quantity, they are stuffed into large crates. If the lid won't close, they take a sledge hammer and start pounding on them to get the lid shut. If that doesn't work, they will drop a wrecking ball on top of them and that usually works well. Then GM tests them to see if they are in working condition by filling them with water, if the water runs out the bottom, then its alright. If water does not run through it, then they trash it and go on to the next. So if you are lucky enough to get a decent one, then it was probably at the bottom of the crate and didn't get the impact abuse that the top ones suffered.
 
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