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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had 96,000 miles of bliss, no problems, zero. Then while on my way home ina a snow storm, my 4wd starts popping back into 2wd. I took it to the stealer and there's a hole in my transfer case. $2100 later, I'm back in business. I drove it 2 days and the front differential was leaking oil. $100 later, I had a new $8 pinion seal installed. I parked the truck for 2 weeks and then ran it 4 days to and from work.

On my way back to the stealer, to trade for a Suburban (don't worry, I bought a 2007 Duramax 3 months ago), I smelled oil. I stopped only to find my front diff, pouring oil like a Crisco bottle. $1300 later, I'm back on the road. This time, I'm not driving it except to trade it off. The stealer told me the oil port in the front diff. blinded off with gunk and starved the pinion bearing of oil, causing it to weld onto the shaft and eating the pinion seal. The oil loss caused the front diff. to heat up and the gears were gone.

My question is this. What could make the front differential go bad? I've never had one do that before and I think it's more BS caused by the Transfer Case.

GM should be sued for this transfer case crap!!!!!!! Oh and by the way, the 07 I bought has the same transfer case......In 2 years, I'm trading for a Dodge!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PS this truck is a 2002 crew cab D-max with the works from Banks...intake, exhaust, tuner, TCM, turbo actuator, gauges, six gun, etc.
 

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The transfer case did not cause you front differential go bad, you dealer did when they replaced the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How did they make it go bad by replacing a seal? Did the T-case make the seal go bad?

When they replaced the seal, they topped off the front diff. Did this have an effect?
 

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When they replaced the front pinion seal they overtightened the front pinion
nut when they put it back together, there was not enough clearance & it overheated the front ring & pinion gears. "probably" what happened.(if the ring to pinion tollerences are to tight then there is no room for the diff fluid between the gears.
 

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I'm getting close to 57,000 on mine. Tax lady called me today and said my return is at her office. Wonder what I'll be buying with some of that money?:rolleyes:

I'm trying to be pro-active about this and get it befor it gets me. Guys, even if you don't have a hole its workin' on it... in more than 1 spot.

Good luck fellas. I'll report my findings when I break mine apart @ my mileage. Probably be around 58,000 when I do it.
 

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ya, the dealer did it, overtighten the pinion nut after replacing the seal. Seen it before..

JJ
 

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Mad4aMax;1600903; said:
When they replaced the front pinion seal they overtightened the front pinion
nut when they put it back together, there was not enough clearance & it overheated the front ring & pinion gears. "probably" what happened.(if the ring to pinion tollerences are to tight then there is no room for the diff fluid between the gears.
if the pinion nut was too tight it would create extra clearance in the ring and pinion not make them tighter it would really be sloppier. it would have ruined the bearings.. 96K miles things do break stop looking to blame people. unless you are sure.
 

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mikek996;1601615; said:
with all due respect being a fellow gorilla and all I am suprised you came to this conclusion also.
Only basing it on the fact that it was just replaced. We dont really know the failure at all, but at 98k, its anybody's guess. The only one that will really know is whoever tore it apart I guess
 

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but wouldnt you agree that too tight would pull the pinion away from the ring gear due to crush sleeve absorbing the extra torque
 

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after re-reading the thread, yup, I'd agree with that. But I would think the bearings would go out long before any gear damage would go out if it was overtightened, no?
 

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could even be that the seal was not installed right or they gouged the area arount the seal so bad it leaked. so they could still be to blame but for diffrent reasons. I would have another shop look at it to draw a conclusion.
 

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but wouldnt you agree that too tight would pull the pinion away from the ring gear due to crush sleeve absorbing the extra torque

dmaxalliTech;1601650; said:
after re-reading the thread, yup, I'd agree with that. But I would think the bearings would go out long before any gear damage would go out if it was overtightened, no?
I would agree and disagree. Overtightening of the pinion nut should not affect how the pinion gear meshes with the ring gear. At the head of the pinion is the shims and bearing (sometimes even an oil slinger), in the housing is the mating race and those are the only things that affect pinion depth (distance from ring gear centerline). Between that and the pinion nut is your crush sleeve (or in some instances solid spacer) and second bearing and race combo.

NOTE* THIS IS ASSUMING FROM THE POINT OF ZERO PRELOAD WHERE THE BEARINGS FIRST SEAT IN THEIR RESPECTIVE RACES (any looser and the pinion should visibly wobble by hand):
Now in many cases when you check pinion depth you do it without a crush sleeve (you just tighten the nut to make the pinion have some rolling resistance as you turn). Once you have your settings and pattern where you want it, you install the crush sleeve. Most crush sleeves will not give you zero preload until they have been crushed a slight amount (this allows for variations in housings). Up until this point, the pinion can be moved forward and aft as there room between the bearings and races (this room may be what the first poster is talking about but is generally ignored)

Now once the sleeve is crushed to zero preload:

As you tighten the nut, the sleeve crushes allowing the bearings to move closer to their respective races (pinion bearing preload), although both bearings move closer to their races they are moving half the total distance of the "crush". The amount each bearing moves from Zero preload to proper preload is so minute it's barely measureable at the pinion snout.

The only way that is possible to move a significant amount (ie. enough to ruin ring and pinion mesh) is if so much force was used that the bearing at the head of the pinion was crushed or the bearing was not pressed on fully enough to seat the shims in the first place.

That being said, l agree with Erik that overtightening of the pinion nut would cause pinion bearing failure and should have been evident by the bearings and races. If the bearings heated enough to ruin the seal and the fluid ran out, then I could see damage being done to the ring and pinion mating surfaces, but the wear on the pinion bearings and races should be worse...
 

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:eek:: Sorry I meant Eric instead of Erik
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All that is a bunch of crap. If it was just replaced and then it started puking oil, then they screwed it up. 98k isn't high mileage anmore, and especially not for a diesel. I filled up beside a 1988 ford diesel just last night. These trucks aren't made like they used to be. Yeah, common rail injection got the horsepower up, and they're fun to play with, but remember when a trucks body was the first thing to go and that was at 200k?

We're all getting the shaft from GM. And to make matters worse, I now have an '07 LBZ that I'll have to trade in 2 years! Good luck, wait until you join the pump rub club!!!!!!

Oh yeah, did I mention that pre 2004 trucks have injectors that like to puke fuel oil into your combustion chamber, filling your crankcase, and shoot out your tailpipe? Welcome to the "we got screwed and never even got kissed club"!
 

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If you have owned one of these in the past, then why did you buy the 2007?

Do you just want something to complain about?

I feel I bought a great truck, and I do not feel I got screwed, I love my truck!
 

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My membership into the pump rub club only cost me about 500 bucks, only because the case half was unusable. But that is cheaper than a truck payment!
 
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