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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, I think my injection pump may be finished.
Am looking for all the part numbers of everything I need to get the job done myself please.
Is there anywhere in Texas ok for this??
The pump has on it db2829 YL????. That could be 4098 but has a load of 1111 stamped over that.
Anyway to tell if the plastic retainer is updated already?
As I can't get it rebuilt here someone will have to order/bring parts to me.
Thanks again
Ps It's done about 89000 miles allegedly. The motor etc is original, built about 12/1982.
 

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The model number of the pump is next to the DB2829. So for example, 1982 engs had TWO pumps. DB2829 - 4090YL (Lightduty C-Code) 1/2 ton only or sometimes under 8600 gvw 3/4 tons (light duty 6 luggers) but really rare or true 8 lugs 3/4 tons - 1 ton had DB2829 - 4153s.

The 4090 is a rare pump being it was only on the 1982 engines as a first-year option. A model 4126 replaced it in 1983 and is more common. But the stanadyne rebuild/seal kits you see online will work with a 4090 so it's all the same. But as of yet I have NEVER seen another 4090 pumps and I've been searching for 3-4 years for a core spare one.
These days they are more expensive due to inflation. Before it was under $600. Now... about $900 - 1400.

I have a contact in texas i can ask.
 

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The 4153 is another good pump for the 6.2.Used in 1982-1983.It was a J code emission pump.I bought that pump about 10 years ago from eBay for about $700.It was a new old stock item.It probably still has the original flex ring inside.
 
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If you keep your eye out at some of these Government auction sites, you can find New Old Stock military CUCV IP's. They are 24v but you can easily swap out the Solenoid for a 12v out of your existing IP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for that help, will read it over till it sinks in properly!
It is an early half ton, not too messed with.
It starts ok, no fast idle anymore.
Up to 10 miles it drives ok.
About 20 it starts cutting out when slowing down/stoplights.
By 40 it's becomin undrivable, no power like the brakes are on. With the engine cut off the steering and brakes don't work well, and not fun...
A nos pump especially like military would be nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is there a kit for the that lower piston with a (steel) sleeve? One worth doing that might last 20,000 miles ok. I was told without this done, the rest of the pump will never get to work.
I see the top US remanufactured pumps are using ceramic sleeves, but at $?!&#
 

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Check the return line check valve and make sure it's not stopped up. If it is, it creates too much back pressure inside the pump and it bogs down. If it is, and you are trying to get somewhere, you can knock the check ball out and just let it free flow back to tank, that should let you get to 45 - 50 mph for quit a while till you can rebuild or replace pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
82kbody-if you could check your Texas source that'd be great. I need the best quality parts -this is a job I can't afford to do twice. If you can give us the shop name pls i will pass it on to my relatives who will make sure i get everything.
 

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Is there a kit for the that lower piston with a (steel) sleeve? One worth doing that might last 20,000 miles ok. I was told without this done, the rest of the pump will never get to work.
I see the top US remanufactured pumps are using ceramic sleeves, but at $?!&#
It’s probably usdieselparts.com I think.I bought pump parts from them before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wasn't there a tag added by GM when the pump was updated?
What did this look like?
There is a tag with just 'E' on it.
The rest of the other tag if 82k body is interested db2829 YL4091 4126
3895390 14050587
What causes the pump to heat up? Is it the rotor head or the advance piston??
If it's the piston I can't do that (sleeving/over boring) at home...
If I buy a infrared pyrometer what temp is ok? Would turning up the pump make it better or worse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also it's on the original mechanical lift pump -what is the required pressure at what revs please?
I've a replacement Delphi MF0030-11B1 lift pump, anyone with experience of these (said worryingly noticing the made in Korea label)........??
Thanks
 

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Wasn't there a tag added by GM when the pump was updated?
What did this look like?
There is a tag with just 'E' on it.
The rest of the other tag if 82k body is interested db2829 YL4091 4126
3895390 14050587
What causes the pump to heat up? Is it the rotor head or the advance piston??
If it's the piston I can't do that (sleeving/over boring) at home...
If I buy a infrared pyrometer what temp is ok? Would turning up the pump make it better or worse?
When Stanadyne upgraded the pump internals on the 5521 pump they signified the change by adding an "S" (5521S) to the end of the numbers.
Remanufacturers or "rebuilders will use their own codes/numbers after they refresh the pump and remove the stanadyne tag
 
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