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Discussion Starter #21
This is a bummer. What insurance company do you have? How did you get them to cover the cost of the IP going bad?

I'm looking at either doing a CP3 conversion in 2021 or just upgrading to a 2020 or newer truck and not worry about CP4's anymore. Can't believe Ram went to a CP4 and went down the rabbit hole like GM and Ford.
State Farm
The shop has to state “contaminated fuel” as the cause. And your insurance has to cover that. It’s a tough decision. If the fuel is contaminated then GM most likely won’t cover any of the repair as they may do even if it’s out of warranty.
 

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This is a bummer. What insurance company do you have? How did you get them to cover the cost of the IP going bad?

I'm looking at either doing a CP3 conversion in 2021 or just upgrading to a 2020 or newer truck and not worry about CP4's anymore. Can't believe Ram went to a CP4 and went down the rabbit hole like GM and Ford.
FWIW, the Bosch pumps were not used on dmax after 2016.
2017 and newer have the L5P version of the dmax, which uses the Denso pump.

Otoh, 2020 and newer also has the new frame, 10 speed trans, new body style etc etc
 
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Discussion Starter #23
I’ve bought GM all my life truck after truck after truck. EVERY time I get a new one the salesman says “ Now we have it right. We fixed the problems your old truck has”. This is my last Chevrolet.
 

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State Farm
The shop has to state “contaminated fuel” as the cause. And your insurance has to cover that. It’s a tough decision. If the fuel is contaminated then GM most likely won’t cover any of the repair as they may do even if it’s out of warranty.
I need to check if USAA does this coverage. Thank you for the information.

Personally, I wouldn't want the dealership to replace my fuel system with another craptastic CP4.2 pump. I'll see how the year goes if a 2020-21 truck makes more sense or just drop the money on my current truck.
 

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FWIW, the Bosch pumps were not used on dmax after 2016.
2017 and newer have the L5P version of the dmax, which uses the Denso pump.

Otoh, 2020 and newer also has the new frame, 10 speed trans, new body style etc etc
This is why I want to skip the 2017-2019 L5P trucks. Love the body style (by far), but the resale on these trucks are so high (or a bunch of people paid sticker) and don't see a huge benefit to spend the money vs just buying the new 20/21. With the new trucks I can also drop back down to a 2500HD due to capacity ratings 3563/18500/27500 (would have to see sticker of course).

For example, some low mileage 2019 3500HD trucks (might as well call the SLT a new truck):

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VS a new truck:

q.png
w.png



Tough call for me. I could spend 1750.00 and do the CP3 conversion myself (cuss non-stop for two days) and drive my current LML for a very long time. Truck has been paid for two weeks after I left the dealership. Like I said earlier, the 2017-19 (and 2016 LML) body style is my favorite. I did test drive my buddies 2017 3500HD DRW truck. I was impressed.
 

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This is why I want to skip the 2017-2019 L5P trucks. Love the body style (by far), but the resale on these trucks are so high (or a bunch of people paid sticker) and don't see a huge benefit to spend the money vs just buying the new 20/21. With the new trucks I can also drop back down to a 2500HD due to capacity ratings 3563/18500/27500 (would have to see sticker of course).

For example, some low mileage 2019 3500HD trucks (might as well call the SLT a new truck):

View attachment 638720

View attachment 638722


VS a new truck:

View attachment 638721 View attachment 638723


Tough call for me. I could spend 1750.00 and do the CP3 conversion myself (cuss non-stop for two days) and drive my current LML for a very long time. Truck has been paid for two weeks after I left the dealership. Like I said earlier, the 2017-19 (and 2016 LML) body style is my favorite. I did test drive my buddies 2017 3500HD DRW truck. I was impressed.
As long as you do some preventative maintenance items/ upgrades:
Add a lift pump
Use a fuel additive w/lubricity with each tank of fuel
Add extra fuel filtration
Purchase your fuels from well-used stations like truck Stops (T/A, Loves, Flying J, etc)

The above items will lessen your chances of a CP4 issue....
 
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As long as you do some preventative maintenance items/ upgrades:
Add a lift pump
Use a fuel additive w/lubricity with each tank of fuel
Add extra fuel filtration
Purchase your fuels from well-used stations like truck Stops (T/A, Loves, Flying J, etc)

The above items will lessen your chances of a CP4 issue....
Good advice.

Have FASS, CAT 2 micron filter, secondary water separator, use Howe’s every fill up, always fill at high volume fuel stations. Best I can do for now.
 

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This is why I want to skip the 2017-2019 L5P trucks. Love the body style (by far), but the resale on these trucks are so high (or a bunch of people paid sticker) and don't see a huge benefit to spend the money vs just buying the new 20/21.

Tough call for me. I could spend 1750.00 and do the CP3 conversion myself (cuss non-stop for two days) and drive my current LML for a very long time. Truck has been paid for two weeks after I left the dealership. Like I said earlier, the 2017-19 (and 2016 LML) body style is my favorite. I did test drive my buddies 2017 3500HD DRW truck. I was impressed.
Do see what they will give you for yours.
It's not just the 17-19's that are in demand.

Can't help you with the body style choice.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
FWIW, the Bosch pumps were not used on dmax after 2016.
2017 and newer have the L5P version of the dmax, which uses the Denso pump.

Otoh, 2020 and newer also has the new frame, 10 speed trans, new body style etc etc
This is my last GM. I'm still having problems with the original repair (the down tube started leaking) and
it's still losing coolant somewhere. It' been losing coolant since new and they can/t find the leak. I can smell it but only need to add it infrequently. I'm positive the new diesels will have major problems that will be "corrected" on the next new diesel only to have problems to be corrected on the next one and on and on. It's sad because I've owned GMs for 40 years.
 

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This is my last GM. I'm still having problems with the original repair (the down tube started leaking) and
it's still losing coolant somewhere. It' been losing coolant since new and they can/t find the leak. I can smell it but only need to add it infrequently. I'm positive the new diesels will have major problems that will be "corrected" on the next new diesel only to have problems to be corrected on the next one and on and on. It's sad because I've owned GMs for 40 years.
Having crappy service departments makes a huge difference in my choice of trucks. For me, in my area (Colorado Springs, CO) the GM dealerships are really good. My personal experiences with Dodge (2) were just rubbish and the Ford dealership is iffy at best. Most of my friends have 2011-2020 F-250/350 trucks. A few have purchased the full repair manual sets directly from Ford.

Ram 2021 trucks dumped the CP4...so there is an additional plus for going that route. I just can't do another Dodge/Ram. My wife put her foot down and said "you come home with another Dodge, I'm coming home with divorce papers.." I'm sure she was joking...maybe. She was tired of paying thousands in repairs...and I was doing all the work.
 

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This is my last GM. I'm still having problems with the original repair (the down tube started leaking) and
it's still losing coolant somewhere. It' been losing coolant since new and they can/t find the leak. I can smell it but only need to add it infrequently. I'm positive the new diesels will have major problems that will be "corrected" on the next new diesel only to have problems to be corrected on the next one and on and on. It's sad because I've owned GMs for 40 years.
I assume you mean the down pipe to the cat clamp is leaking? Very common, there is an updated part that comes with a gasket, there is a bulletin with the part number.

as for smelling coolant and not seeing it, lower radiator hoses can leak and not drip, at the T just above the plastic skid plate, or also I’ve seen a few radiators leak and not produce a drip to the floor, the heat from the engine gels up the coolant and bakes it on. Hard to see with the fan in the way but using an inspection mirror or a bore-scope camera you’ll be able to see the top corners of the engine side inside the shroud.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I assume you mean the down pipe to the cat clamp is leaking? Very common, there is an updated part that comes with a gasket, there is a bulletin with the part number.

as for smelling coolant and not seeing it, lower radiator hoses can leak and not drip, at the T just above the plastic skid plate, or also I’ve seen a few radiators leak and not produce a drip to the floor, the heat from the engine gels up the coolant and bakes it on. Hard to see with the fan in the way but using an inspection mirror or a bore-scope camera you’ll be able to see the top corners of the engine side inside the shroud.
Thanks. But now the engine idles a little differently and the check engine light just came on. Another adventure to enjoy!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So, the dealership replaced the cat clamp with the updated one. I had to pay for it because according to the service manager "GM is not responsible for design flaws".
I was informed the heater (?) in the DEF tank failed and i need a new tank. Wonderful
 

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So, the dealership replaced the cat clamp with the updated one. I had to pay for it because according to the service manager "GM is not responsible for design flaws".
I was informed the heater (?) in the DEF tank failed and i need a new tank. Wonderful
I feel horrible for you man...this is just never ending issues.

The heater element is covered under parts manufactures warranty. Mine was just replaced and I have more miles on my truck than yours.
 
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