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Discussion Starter #1
With 52,000 miles I experienced the dreaded injection pump fail. 800 miles from home pulling 23,000 pounds up that big hill out of NC on 77. I had the “check fuel filter” light come on and it died instantly. I did run it very low on fuel about 130 miles before the failure. I had it towed to the nearest dealer (mistake) Bob Huff. They said two weeks and it was a couple days short of four. Almost $9,000 but my insurance paid as GM said it was out of warranty. After I got it home and was changing the front rotors I noticed a wire harness hanging down below the skid plate. Looking further under the hood it was obvious that many wires were not clipped in or run properly. I brought it to the dealer here and they spent a few hours rerouting the wires to their proper places and replacing the computer mount which was broken. I called GM customer service and was told that I needed to drive 800 miles to give the idiots at Huff another go at it. They refused to pay for additional labor to correct the faulty workmanship at a GM dealer. Basically telling me to buy a Ford next time.
 

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With 52,000 miles I experienced the dreaded injection pump fail. 800 miles from home pulling 23,000 pounds up that big hill out of NC on 77. I had the “check fuel filter” light come on and it died instantly. I did run it very low on fuel about 130 miles before the failure. I had it towed to the nearest dealer (mistake) Bob Huff. They said two weeks and it was a couple days short of four. Almost $9,000 but my insurance paid as GM said it was out of warranty. After I got it home and was changing the front rotors I noticed a wire harness hanging down below the skid plate. Looking further under the hood it was obvious that many wires were not clipped in or run properly. I brought it to the dealer here and they spent a few hours rerouting the wires to their proper places and replacing the computer mount which was broken. I called GM customer service and was told that I needed to drive 800 miles to give the idiots at Huff another go at it. They refused to pay for additional labor to correct the faulty workmanship at a GM dealer. Basically telling me to buy a Ford next time.
Sorry about your luck...
The reason GM told you to go back to that particular dealer was because:
A. It was an out of warranty repair and GM did not pay for the repairs, thus they are not liable.
B. That dealer you had do the repairs is responsible for any work that they do to your vehicle and why they suggested that you revist that dealer to correct the mishap
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The reason I went to a dealer was the mistaken idea that I would be covered in the GM family. When the new pump fails if it’s within 2 years then it’s covered at any dealership. Or so I was told by the human robot on GM’s customer service line.
 

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The question is what is the warranty for dealer installed parts. Is it 2 years? 1 year? or something else. Post does not indicate what the time frame actually is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They said a two year warranty. I was told if the pump fails it’s parts and labor at any dealer. But now I have my doubts.
 

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They said a two year warranty. I was told if the pump fails it’s parts and labor at any dealer. But now I have my doubts.
It would depend on the contract agreements between that particular Dealer and GM.
If it is a small town dealer their franchise rights may be limited and may be treated as an "Independent shop".
Large city dealerships that have high volume sales will have no issues unless they violate contract agreements
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That’s good to know. The rep told me my pump was guaranteed at any dealer up to the amount I paid. But I wonder now.
We rebuilt a dealership in northern PA that was a small shop when they had to have the big GM arch among many other things or be out of business with GM. It was a huge outlay for a small place. Then GM pulled back on the requirements because they were losing so many small shops. I wonder when the independent shops came into being.
 

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That’s good to know. The rep told me my pump was guaranteed at any dealer up to the amount I paid. But I wonder now.
We rebuilt a dealership in northern PA that was a small shop when they had to have the big GM arch among many other things or be out of business with GM. It was a huge outlay for a small place. Then GM pulled back on the requirements because they were losing so many small shops. I wonder when the independent shops came into being.
That particular shop may have been under full contract with GM at one time and may have violated some stipulated rules and got their repair contracts pulled or severely restricted because of whatever GM rule they broke.
Another way to push the issue is to contact your Insurance company who paid for the repair and explain to them your problem.
They may contact GM on your behalf and find a resolution
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. The dealer here ended up not charging to make it correct but now the upper oil pan(?) is leaking and they have to pull the transmission. I’m losing all confidence in Chevy after 45 years.
 

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Upper oil pans are a somewhat common leak, if your dealer service department is worth anything, the repair should be done in less than 2 days.
It sucks the dealer away from home for you didn’t do a clean job, they ruin it for dealers like mine that do quality work and stand behind it. If we make a mistake, we own it and make it right.

Hopefully there was no wires chaffed because of incorrectly routed harnesses that will come up later down the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Final (hopefully) update. It turns out the dealership misdiagnosed the oil leak. After pulling out the transmission and resealing the upper pan they put it back in and then there was a coolant leak cause they rolled an O ring on the reinstall. Replaced it and reinstalled the transmission. So still leaking oil, they removed things on top of the engine and discovered the engine valley full of oil with an O ring floating. Pulled the pump and an O ring was missing from a low pressure oil return line from the timing chain (?).
They then decided to redo everything the previous dealership did because some of the bolts weren’t properly torqued and a hard fuel line was kinked. They also found more wires and harnesses in the incorrect places. $4800. They called the first dealership and was told they would call me right away and then call them back. No surprise that there were no calls. My insurance company is paying for the rerepair and then is going after the first dealership.
I was informed by the service manager here that this repair is now covered for two years and unlimited miles by GM. Unlike the first dealer. So beware and check the dealer out before you bring it in for repairs.
My truck still smells like coolant when it gets hot........
 

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Final (hopefully) update. It turns out the dealership misdiagnosed the oil leak. After pulling out the transmission and resealing the upper pan they put it back in and then there was a coolant leak cause they rolled an O ring on the reinstall. Replaced it and reinstalled the transmission. So still leaking oil, they removed things on top of the engine and discovered the engine valley full of oil with an O ring floating. Pulled the pump and an O ring was missing from a low pressure oil return line from the timing chain (?).
They then decided to redo everything the previous dealership did because some of the bolts weren’t properly torqued and a hard fuel line was kinked. They also found more wires and harnesses in the incorrect places. $4800. They called the first dealership and was told they would call me right away and then call them back. No surprise that there were no calls. My insurance company is paying for the rerepair and then is going after the first dealership.
I was informed by the service manager here that this repair is now covered for two years and unlimited miles by GM. Unlike the first dealer. So beware and check the dealer out before you bring it in for repairs.
My truck still smells like coolant when it gets hot........
Glad the issue got resolved.
Thanks for the update!

(y)
 

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Final (hopefully) update. It turns out the dealership misdiagnosed the oil leak. After pulling out the transmission and resealing the upper pan they put it back in and then there was a coolant leak cause they rolled an O ring on the reinstall. Replaced it and reinstalled the transmission. So still leaking oil, they removed things on top of the engine and discovered the engine valley full of oil with an O ring floating. Pulled the pump and an O ring was missing from a low pressure oil return line from the timing chain (?).
They then decided to redo everything the previous dealership did because some of the bolts weren’t properly torqued and a hard fuel line was kinked. They also found more wires and harnesses in the incorrect places. $4800. They called the first dealership and was told they would call me right away and then call them back. No surprise that there were no calls. My insurance company is paying for the rerepair and then is going after the first dealership.
I was informed by the service manager here that this repair is now covered for two years and unlimited miles by GM. Unlike the first dealer. So beware and check the dealer out before you bring it in for repairs.
My truck still smells like coolant when it gets hot........
I’m sorry your dealer is packed with idiots... to do an upper pan they don’t touch anything with coolant! They must have taken something off that wasn’t required.

o-ring from low pressure timing chain... Uhh what? Duramax is gear driven cam/crank, injection pump and water pump!
Sounds like they are blowing smoke up your *ss, get them to clarify.

I would love to see the “technicians” comments to see how they justify these....
 

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They still shouldn’t have had the timing cover off....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looking at the invoice.
“Removed egr bypass cooler, found rear egr pipe leaking from o ring into flywheel housing.
Injection pump o ring missing causing Oil leak. “
 

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Ok that makes a bit more sence... there’s a hose that goes from the top of the rear EGR cooler to a pipe that goes into the rear cover (flywheel housing) that has an o-ring on it in the cover. They are prone to leaking, I’ve had 2 leak after install. I know to install them and pressure test immediately to verify it’s sealed correctly.

As for the injection pump o-ring... The tech doing the original repair must have totally fucked up, there’s no possible way that seal could come out of place if it was installed correctly. They come installed on the new pump in the box!

As for still smelling coolant, check the top corners of your radiator, can leak but it reach the ground, crystallize and cause odor without much coolant loss. Have to use a small mirror to inspect inside the fan shroud.

Hope you don’t have trouble with head gaskets popping because the cooling system wasn't holding pressure for so long. Most sets I’ve done have had a coolant leak related repair within 15-30k KM before a head gaskets failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks. I’ll check the radiator. There should be a way to report the original tech. He/she should not be allowed near a truck. GM just seems to give no sh*ts.
 

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Unfortunately they are out there among us that pride ourselves in doing a correct, cost effective, long lasting repair. We have a few at my shop that management even says “You have to do it because we don’t trust XXXX to do it!” I always walk away thinking “if you don’t trust him, why in the hell is he here?!”
 

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With 52,000 miles I experienced the dreaded injection pump fail. 800 miles from home pulling 23,000 pounds up that big hill out of NC on 77. I had the “check fuel filter” light come on and it died instantly. I did run it very low on fuel about 130 miles before the failure. I had it towed to the nearest dealer (mistake) Bob Huff. They said two weeks and it was a couple days short of four. Almost $9,000 but my insurance paid as GM said it was out of warranty. After I got it home and was changing the front rotors I noticed a wire harness hanging down below the skid plate. Looking further under the hood it was obvious that many wires were not clipped in or run properly. I brought it to the dealer here and they spent a few hours rerouting the wires to their proper places and replacing the computer mount which was broken. I called GM customer service and was told that I needed to drive 800 miles to give the idiots at Huff another go at it. They refused to pay for additional labor to correct the faulty workmanship at a GM dealer. Basically telling me to buy a Ford next time.
This is a bummer. What insurance company do you have? How did you get them to cover the cost of the IP going bad?

I'm looking at either doing a CP3 conversion in 2021 or just upgrading to a 2020 or newer truck and not worry about CP4's anymore. Can't believe Ram went to a CP4 and went down the rabbit hole like GM and Ford.
 
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