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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks - thought you might like to hear 'bout my truck.

I picked up a '96 3500 club cab Dodge\Cummins 5-spd 2wd dually which I've been er, um, slightly busy with, instead of posting, here, there, and everywhere.

So far, I've added IAT, Boost, and EGT gages, replaced the clutch-pilot bearing (already had a new clutch\pressure plate, t-o bearing), installed the 330hp\775lbsft torque TST plate, replaced the brown doggie-motel velour interior with grey velour, instrument panel and all, replaced the vacuum brake boost with Hydroboost, and.......

Dodge built their frames in three sections -

front section determined suspension type
2wd independent
4wd coil springs, trailing links
2wd straight front axle coil springs\trailing links, same frame\suspension\steering as 4wd

middle section determined cab type
regular cab 2-door
club cab 2dr (4 door '98 - up)

rear section determined bed length

Sooooo......I jacked the truck up, raised the cab up a foot off the frame, raised the Cummins 6 inches outta the frame, then cut the front i-f-s frame section out at the factory splice, directly beneath the seats.

Having located and prepped a 3500 4wd front section and the straight front axle, I then mated, aligned, and welded the two sections and VOILA!!!

I now have maybe the only Dodge 3500 HD straight front axle dooley pickup on the road - white\grey velour, sittin' 5" higher than when Dodge sold it to another old man and his dog (Boy! did that cab ever stink!!!!!).

The straight front axle is the Dana 70 without the differential third-member and drive axles - the steering knuckles, brakes, hubs, etc, are the same, just no drive assy, replaced by a section of 3/8ths inch thick heavy-wall tube.

HD factory option was offered only in cab-and-chassis configuration, with the narrower rear axle

I see Dodge now builds one-piece rail frames, but I like the '93 - 2001 body style trucks, so no biggie.

Next is a '98 4-door club cab switcheroo, a 2002 NV-5600 6-speed with 13" clutch to handle the 775ftlbs torque, maybe an 8.3 with TST for 1300ftlbs torque, and you should see what can be done with the first-gen 24-valve by eliminating the PCM.

Hoo hah!!!!! did I mention I like Dodge\Cummins?

BTW - it's gettin' 21mpg back and forth to work, 30 - 45mph, stop lights, traffic, and all, and those long-travel coil springs give it 1/2-ton-smooth ride characteristics.

All-in-all, a really satisfying conversion.................
 

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Sounds pretty sweet! Got any pics??:ro) :cool2:
 

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Lets see it!:cool2:
 

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Hi folks - thought you might like to hear 'bout my truck.

I picked up a '96 3500 club cab Dodge\Cummins 5-spd 2wd dually which I've been er, um, slightly busy with, instead of posting, here, there, and everywhere.

So far, I've added IAT, Boost, and EGT gages, replaced the clutch-pilot bearing (already had a new clutch\pressure plate, t-o bearing), installed the 330hp\775lbsft torque TST plate, replaced the brown doggie-motel velour interior with grey velour, instrument panel and all, replaced the vacuum brake boost with Hydroboost, and.......

Dodge built their frames in three sections -

front section determined suspension type
2wd independent
4wd coil springs, trailing links
2wd straight front axle coil springs\trailing links, same frame\suspension\steering as 4wd

middle section determined cab type
regular cab 2-door
club cab 2dr (4 door '98 - up)

rear section determined bed length

Sooooo......I jacked the truck up, raised the cab up a foot off the frame, raised the Cummins 6 inches outta the frame, then cut the front i-f-s frame section out at the factory splice, directly beneath the seats.

Having located and prepped a 3500 4wd front section and the straight front axle, I then mated, aligned, and welded the two sections and VOILA!!!

I now have maybe the only Dodge 3500 HD straight front axle dooley pickup on the road - white\grey velour, sittin' 5" higher than when Dodge sold it to another old man and his dog (Boy! did that cab ever stink!!!!!).

The straight front axle is the Dana 70 without the differential third-member and drive axles - the steering knuckles, brakes, hubs, etc, are the same, just no drive assy, replaced by a section of 3/8ths inch thick heavy-wall tube.

HD factory option was offered only in cab-and-chassis configuration, with the narrower rear axle

I see Dodge now builds one-piece rail frames, but I like the '93 - 2001 body style trucks, so no biggie.

Next is a '98 4-door club cab switcheroo, a 2002 NV-5600 6-speed with 13" clutch to handle the 775ftlbs torque, maybe an 8.3 with TST for 1300ftlbs torque, and you should see what can be done with the first-gen 24-valve by eliminating the PCM.

Hoo hah!!!!! did I mention I like Dodge\Cummins?

BTW - it's gettin' 21mpg back and forth to work, 30 - 45mph, stop lights, traffic, and all, and those long-travel coil springs give it 1/2-ton-smooth ride characteristics.

All-in-all, a really satisfying conversion.................
No wonder you havent been posting in the 6.5 forum anymore.:D

Nice work. I too, have discovered the power on the CTD. I am not prejudice when it comes to diesel power...cept when a ferds involved.):h
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll try to do pics. I'm er, eh, sorta computer-illiterate - fix 'em, jest cain't use 'em reliably.:confused:
 

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gmctd


I'm also looking at a 2 to 4 wd conversion. I didn't realize the different frame sections. Do you think the ifs section is beefy enough to mount the 4 link to. I am going to do all of my own fab work. I was thinking of designing a 4 link similar to the factory 4wd setup and possibly using coilovers. Anyone got any opinions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I looked at shaving the ifs off the frame, welding the sfa brackets on, but......
The factory design is proven - why re-invent the system?

Look at the frame section where the trans member is bolted in - inner wall is spliced just back of that, outer wall (it's a box-type frame) is spliced between access holes for the trans bolts.

Each splice has the un-spliced section of the opposite wall to support the vertical joint - excellent strength, rigidity, flexibility

Upper access holes are 3 15/16ths center-to-center, lower holes are 5 7/16ths c-t-c - the rails fit inside each other, easy to aligh the splice.

I jacked the body\front clip (disconnected radiator hoses and charge-air cooler hoses ) off the frame with those long-ram jacks at Northern Tool (25.99).
Same for the engine, to clear the engine support brackets.

I wanted to install a lift kit - I simply used the factory designed and approved kit.

Bonus - the Dana 70 (or 60\2500, or 50\1500) front drive axle bolts right in this lift kit, if I need 4wd.
 
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