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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ive never really showed my project on here, but due to recent increase in redoing truck threads i thought i would share what i have done over the past year. some background to my madness. i bought the truck to restore and decided to go thru everything just because. after going thru engine, trans, tcase, and axles im glad i did. the rear axle was junk (pinion teeth chipped and cross shaft very worn) the front axle ujoints had no needles left in the bearing caps. the engine wasnt bad, just resealed the valve covers and pan, install a 6.5 turbo, fuel system, and intake. found the rod bearing were showing a little wear so i replaced them. then with the trans the only issue was it wouldnt shift out of 2nd if you floor it from a stop. well turns out the governer was a gas unit, burnt 3/4 clutch pack, destoried output shaft bushing. rebuilt the trans. the tcase just needed a new low range shift fork. now pics :cool:
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/6449_235251380318_578355318_7994846_5041807_n.jpg how it looked before i got to crazy. (new front sheet metal and body lift removed from cab)
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...192957330319_578355318_12679689_3289355_n.jpg bad pinion teeth
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...0192957355319_578355318_12679690_449360_n.jpg bad cross shaft
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...396969360319_578355318_17237910_3436594_n.jpg frame all blast (with 4" lift springs installed)
http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/224041_10150606357470319_578355318_18855200_2571235_n.jpg frame painted
http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/205911_10150761134790319_578355318_20532510_2936256_n.jpg most of the body on
http://hphotos-sea1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/254681_10150761135515319_578355318_20532530_1280286_n.jpg mostly complete engine
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...603205319_578355318_21132205_1983333613_n.jpg (blurry but this is the output bushing, next pic is what the bushing rode on)
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...6603625319_578355318_21132209_484854623_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...0311570319_578355318_21581782_982405919_n.jpg new tcase shift fork on left, old worn one on the right
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...0311570319_578355318_21581782_982405919_n.jpg engine with 90% of serp belt stuff installed
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...0311470319_578355318_21581778_188823047_n.jpg problem with running dual thremostat crossover
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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Looks good. Gives me hope for my truck
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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looks good Jeff
 

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That is great work Jeff, you have saved another truck, and given yourself a cool ride at the same time....:cool:
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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10,035 Posts
Nice work Jeff, love to see these resto threads, keeps us posted on updates.
Should be a nice ride when your done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well got the body straight on the frame now. just need to remove a broken body mount bolt from the cab, then tighten the cab and box down. got my faze gauges in were the factory gauges went (will not be running the printed circuit at all) and in the process of installing new u-joints in the front driveshaft. got pics of the old joints from the cv on the shaft. ill say this about them, they were factory 1985 joints lol i had to heat the plastic retainer out of the yokes

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...8209980319_578355318_21770088_798744534_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...210095319_578355318_21770090_1149917371_n.jpg
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...210210319_578355318_21770092_1343606268_n.jpg
http://hphotos-iad1.fbcdn.net/hphot...8220065319_578355318_21770180_627050092_n.jpg
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Wow those u-joints were just a little dry, gauges look good. Was it a lot of work to get them in the cluster?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow those u-joints were just a little dry, gauges look good. Was it a lot of work to get them in the cluster?
no not really. i just removed the factory gauges, and all the clips and printed circuit. then held the gauge were it looked like it should be and drilled a couple holes for the mounting studs. the hardest part was getting depth right. one had to cut one post that held a factory gauge in out
 

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When you took the u joints out was there some band OR slot for locktight in the yollk? I did a u joint on an s10 yesterday and there was a slot with some kind of plastic inside the yolk The new u joint went in fine...well P.I.T.A. but i was wondering if i missed somthing
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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When you took the u joints out was there some band OR slot for locktight in the yollk? I did a u joint on an s10 yesterday and there was a slot with some kind of plastic inside the yolk The new u joint went in fine...well P.I.T.A. but i was wondering if i missed somthing
those are just factory plastic locking u-joints. replacements arn't likr that and yes.. PIA
 

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those are just factory plastic locking u-joints. replacements arn't likr that and yes.. PIA
Oh thanks man i guess 160.000 was all the u joint could take the looked similur to the ones in countryboys photos maby a littly worse


But countryboy90 thats a gret looking project when do you think youl be on the road?
 

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The easiest way to get the factory joints out is heat. Those injected plastic deals will melt, and make getting them out a piece of cake. You end up with something that looks like a green blackhead being popped... After that, a ball peen hammer, and a vice...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ya i used heat to get the factory retainers out lol still was a pita to get them tho. im HOPEING to have it driveable by next summer *fingers crossed so tight it hurts* but probally not complete for a year. still havent touched the interior yet. that can wait i just want to drive it! it will be 3 years end of next month, so its been long enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
got a little more done. when i removed the body lift a year or so ago i had broken off a cab mount bolt. i got than one out and put in different bolt, then when i took the cab off to blast the frame i broke the d/s bolt. i have a pic of what i did on the d/s and i did the same to the p/s, except on the p/s i was able to weld a nut and take it out the top. not so lucky on the d/s so i just drilled and tapped a new hole for the d/s. have forgotten to say that this was a 2wd cab, so they quickely made it 4wd tunnel. pics will show how they did :/ going to correct it when i start repairing the rusty cab. now pics

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...661530319_578355318_22181115_1173466220_n.jpg inside of cab. white is the 4wd tunnel bolted to the cab

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...661795319_578355318_22181118_1972015867_n.jpg what they did to the bottom of the cab. what you cant see is the 4" gap between the 2 tunnels

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...662495319_578355318_22181125_1376836612_n.jpg hole i made in the floor to get old bolt out (new bolt in hole in pic) same kind of hole on p/s floor pan
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nice progress, so it was a 2wd cab put on a 4wd frame?
yes. the funny part is, the vin on the dash is 4x4 gasser. the vin in the glove box is 4x4 diesel :eek:
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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yes. the funny part is, the vin on the dash is 4x4 gasser. the vin in the glove box is 4x4 diesel :eek:
LOL Trucks this old are bound to have some parts from different years and models.

Current count on my K30 resto is parts from 5 different trucks. Only thing left that is original is the frame, axles and maybe the wheels
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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LOL Trucks this old are bound to have some parts from different years and models.

Current count on my K30 resto is parts from 5 different trucks. Only thing left that is original is the frame, axles and maybe the wheels
me...cab, tailgate, hood, front diff, tranny/tcase, frame and topper
 

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LOL Trucks this old are bound to have some parts from different years and models.

Current count on my K30 resto is parts from 5 different trucks. Only thing left that is original is the frame, axles and maybe the wheels
Its got the original factory motor oil lol
 
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