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Power Steering Pump & Pulley

Question: 
2K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  Dadddyoh 
#1 ·
I removed the power steering pulley when replacing the water pump used a pulley remover. That said the pulley will not go back on completely it stops short of a 1/4-3/8 inch using an installer. I don't see anything in the way on the shaft or the in the pulley hole. Any ideas before I pull the trigger on a new pulley. The other question I was looking at if I had to replace the pump what would be the best one. I looked online for a replacement at RockAuto etc. The PSP on my truck only has one low pressure line which is connected to the Hydroboost. The new and rebuilt PSP with reservoir has two low pressure lines. Except for the $330.00 New AC pump, Is that my only option..any help is appreciated.

AC rebuilt pump with two low pressure connections
New AC Pump
 
#2 · (Edited)
So i found another thread regarding another DP member looking to replace his PSP pulley that he has left on a psp pump when he purchased a new pump. He either had a real hard time finding one or wasn't able to. So this part could render 6.5L engines non-usable unless there is a different avenue for replacement. What years are compatible
 
#3 ·
The power steering pumps for these trucks are pretty much the same, the reservoirs with 2 returns are for the hydroboost. The pulleys are hard to come by because they were a one of a kind for this setup. The 96-up uses a different (shaped) reservoir and diff. pulley, same as the gassers, no problem finding parts.
I convert to the 96-up accessory setup when I get a 95 and recommend it if you plan to keep the truck.
Did you see the PM (conversation) I sent you?
 
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#6 ·
Hope yall don't mind if I butt in here and ask Glagulator a question......when you said "convert to the 96-up accessory setup" are you talking about the PS pump system only, or do you mean ALL the accessories including the alternator, A/C, etc? I have a '95.....and plan on keeping the truck.
 
#5 ·
At the upper right of the this page you should see your avatar to the left of the 3 vertical dots.
It should have a red dot on it. Click on your avatar, then conversation.
It's called conversation now, used to be called PM, Personal Message.
 
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#7 ·
The whole setup, brackets, a/c comp., p/s pump, alternator, and vac pump if you need it.
It's all or nothing.
 
#8 ·
Thanks.....so if I changed over to the '96-up setup would it make doing the '97 cooling upgrade easier on my '95?
 
#9 ·
Actually you will have to do that, the 95 crossover will not work.
I left that out of the list, oops.
 
#11 ·
To re-install the PS pump pulley.
It helps to heat up the pulley before install. Heat expands the metal to get it to slide on all the way. I put it in the oven at 200* to warm it up. It goes on much easier. Also make sure the shaft and hole in pulley are clean.
 
#13 ·
I would only do that as a last resort, you risk ruining the seal, there ia a tool to put the pulley back on with.
 
#12 ·
Dadddyoh, What city are you in??
 
#18 · (Edited)
I am in Kentucky, was going to let you use my pulley installer. I am a retired from 55 years working on GM vehicles. I think I still have some tools (GM) for the 6.2 & 6.5 engines if any one is interested. I haven't used them in years. It's 2 AM here, I am going to bed, check back tomorrow....
 
#19 ·
I was using an inexpensive puller/installer. When pulling it off the outside lip where the puller locks onto somehow distorted. I was ready looking for a new pulley but none to be found. Glagulator mentioned to try emery cloth on the area that was pinched after that I was able to press it on with the install tool. Thank you, for the offer though i really appreciate it.

Off topic there is a 1995 3500 in a wrecking yard in california with complete engine. Don't know why the truck was brought there only saw the engine it looked clean except for dust from sitting.

LOL Auto Parts, Inc USA-CA(Salida) Request_Quote 209-596-4944
 
#22 ·
Get a GM Manual & look it up, they don't tell you to heat it. The seal is in the pump around the shaft, hot goes to cold, the heat will be absorbed by the shaft, the seal will be deformed.
 
#23 ·
Are we talking about 150-200* C? 150c is 302 F so a little on the warm side up not crazy for things under the hood. 200 is 392 so that is getting up there and you are only gonna see those temps on things like exhaust so I would agree that that could be getting into the stress zone for a seal but then again we are not heating the part with the seal only the pulley so even after its installed is the seal really gonna experience the full temp? I don't think it would.. The pulley isn't that dense so its going to loose heat fairly quickly then the shaft has some mass that is coupled to the bearings and the fluid so ya it would get warm but I don't think any warmer than it would normally experience during normal use.

If we were talking those temps in F then if that damages the seal you have some pretty terrible quality seals. There isn't anything under the hood that is gonna be less than 200*F after a drive around the block on a warm day.
 
#24 ·
I guess I should have been more clear I was referring to 150* F. That low temp will in no way hurt a seal from heat conduction. But it does expand the metal enough to prevent binding.
 
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