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Today, I serviced the PS/HB system with a flush; I took some pictures and thought I’d share my procedure I do regularly to prolong the life of the PS and HB units and keep them functioning properly.

ITEMS NEEDED:

Drain pan
Large channel-lock pliers
5-6’ of 5/16” Fuel Line Hose (3/8" will work also, it's just what I had on hand. Clear hose to view fluid is another choice.)
Scrap piece of 1x6
Small funnel
2-3 quarts p/s fluid, Just buy a Gallon Jug, it's cheaper.

jwrs.jpg

I'm currently using Royal Purple synthetic, but plain PS fluid is fine. I pull heavy in bad traffic and experience higher heat levels than the average user. I've experimented with few different syn ATF with mixed results. None proved superior, some were actually detrimental to performance. Looking for a synthetic PS fluid has proven to be an elusive endeavor. At this time of edit, only RP and AmsOil offer syn ps fluid. Again, regular PS fluid is fine to use.


Here we have the culprit at hand,


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CAUTION: in the picture below, you’ll see the curved metal brace coming from the cowl. I STRONGLY recommend you place a rag, towel, blanket, or some kind of cushion in this area.

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When giving the final pull on the LP return hose, the release/recoil will have the underside of your wrist striking this, with potential gashes and blood spilled on your truck, resulting in you cussing me later. GrrRRrr I pull mine regularly and it comes off much easier than one that's been on for 70-80k miles.

(Edited with input from DF member fflmlf)
Open the PS reservoir cap to relieve any excess pressure BEFORE pulling the return line hose shown below.

Compressing the spring clamp,

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turn the hose left and right to break the seal, then pull back off the nipple.

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There will be a slight leak of fluid from the hose end when removed, so have a rag or paper towel in hand to catch and not make a mess.

The curved end of the hose (with rag/towel over end) will hook over where the Hydro-Boost unit meets the Master Cylinder, it'll be out of your way and not leak more fluid out.


Re-using the OEM spring clamp, I secure the drain hose at the HB unit

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and lay the board down to hold the hose in place with the drain pan in site from the Driver’s seat.

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With the engine running and in Park, SLOWLY depress the brake pedal till it feels firm at the bottom and hold, turn the steering wheel from 12-3 o’clock and hold, release the pedal SLOWLY to the top, then bring the wheel back to 12 o’clock. Look down and you'll see the flow and then you can adjust your speed of press and release actions so as not to spray fluid out of the drain pan. It may take 2-3 times before you see the fluid start to flow.

Here we see the old, burnt, and dirty fluid beginning to flow.

45i6.jpg

.....................Continued on the next post, I'm too picture happy to conform here.
 

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Part 2

Continue the same procedure alternately turning from 9 to 12 to 3 o’clock until you start to feel/hear the steering bind a bit, usually 4-6 pedal cycles, then turn off the engine.



Grab your funnel and refill to the bottom of the neck of the PS reservoir.







Hold up the funnel so you can see the fluid level coming up and not pour fluid all over, usually about a third of a quart at a time.







Climb back in, start ‘er up, and get after it again, repeating over and over till you see the fluid start to run clear. I know it is tempting to do but, PLEASE!, don’t leave it running while you refill the PS reservoir, the danger is too great to have your Left Arm get caught and have it get D-MAXED.



Here, we see the fluid is now running clean.







Leave the drain hose connected, check the fluid level in the pump, and fill accordingly to the Cold Line. It you over fill it, just pump the pedal a few times to drain.



Remove the drain hose, wipe the nipple clean of residual fluid, and replace the Return Line using the Spring Clip.







Start ‘er up, roll forward turning the wheel and feel the new ‘Creamy Cool Whip’ resistance in your steering, and yer ‘Good to Go’.



Consider also:

Your HB unit works in conjunction with your Brake system. Brake fluid is like a magnet for water/moisture and should be flushed annually to aid in longevity to your brake system components AND to keep the fluid's boiling point up to spec.



http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-information-place/19-do-yourself-useful-articles-product-reviews/358013-brake-fluid-flush.html



Also:

For as little as $35-ish, you can easily add a Power Steering Fluid Cooler to your HD.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-information-place/19-do-yourself-useful-articles-product-reviews/620849-add-ps-fluid-cooler.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
:thankyou2

Much cheaper than $400 :eek: for a Hydro-Boost unit.
Easy and simple to do. :rockit:
 

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So no problems using Dexron VI? I would like to use a synthetic and if it won't cause any problems, I would like to use it. I know you can do stuff like that in old trucks, but this isn't an 80's F250 here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Valvoline was offering a synthetic PS fluid, but they discontinued it. There is an AmsOil product, and the Purple is available over the counter, but I find them cost prohibitive. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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I’ve been using Valvoline ‘Full Synthetic’ Dex-VI (we keep it in bulk for our Allison maintenance) without any problems. I’m running in the extreme (33k gcw), normal PS fluid is still good for normal use.<o:p></o:p>
 

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Awesome write-up and thanks for all the photos. I always wondered how to do this without making a big mess. Thank you again for taking the time to do this.
 

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Thanks for the write up -agree it is pretty easy thing to do that most forget about until the steering or brakes don't act right....

I have been using Redline Synthetic P/S fluid about 8.50 a quart at my local Car Quest parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks! I'll lookup Car Quest around here....see if they're still in business.
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Another item overlooked is the brake fluid. After just 18-24 months, on average, there’s enough water contamination to lower the boiling point by as much as 200*.

Add to that, many people will replace the linings and never address the trashed fluid or the sediment formed in the Master Cylinder. Then they'll wonder, "why is the pedal soft, I know I bled the brakes?" :rolleyes:
 

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Thanks for the write up last time I pupmped it out I like your way much bettter.

I used AMsoil synthethic power steering only cost $4.80 didn't think it was too pricey. Last time I used AMS synthetic transmission fluid for 75,000 worked fine
 

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Thanks for the write up -agree it is pretty easy thing to do that most forget about until the steering or brakes don't act right....

I have been using Redline Synthetic P/S fluid about 8.50 a quart at my local Car Quest parts store.
All of the CarQuest locations here have discontinued the Redline....and the AmsOil too.
 

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just did this on my 100k 2003 and boy is there a diff in the hydroboost and the steering. The stuff that came out was so burned i could smell it on the first pump. I may need to do it again after i let run some because it never really got clear after 3qts but that was all i had. Thanks for the DIY
 

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THANK YOU HOOK!!! What a difference $22 and 30 minutes can make! I had a problem with the brake pedal being soft and had a 2-stage feel when slowly stopping. Not any more!:D
 

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How many miles on your vehicles when you guys changed you PS Fluid? I've got purple in mine. I've gone about 20K miles since. I'm thinking of changing it out after the next oil change in a couple of months or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
THANK YOU HOOK!!!
Yer :welcome2:
How many miles on your vehicles when you guys changed you PS Fluid? I've got purple in mine. I've gone about 20K miles since. I'm thinking of changing it out after the next oil change in a couple of months or so.
I think it really depends on your frequency of towing and how much weight you pull and under what conditions. Large tires, Towing heavy, stop and go traffic, summertime heat, steep hills…the Hydro-Boost unit can generate a lot of heat and the system doesn’t circulate the fluid much beyond a push/pull effect when in use, so there’s very little dissipation of heat from the fluid, resulting in a loss of viscosity over time.

Under normal use of towing, I’d say link it to the 30k mile interval for differential service. I’m running under severe use, heavy towing, hills, bad traffic, and Texas heat; with regular PS fluid, mine could be burnt crisp in as little as 10k miles, but using Valvoline full synthetic Dex-VI, I flush every 15-20k miles or so.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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i'm flushing mine once a year which is around 30,000 miles for me. I could probably go longer since the fulid coming out still looks pretty good but once a year is easy to remember.
 

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Thanks for the responses gents. I usually tow a 8k lb trailer in summertime. Pretty hilly and such. So I think I'll change it out before trailering. One other question. I checke the PS fluid the other day and was clear but smelt kind of like new tires? Is the smell of crispy burnt fluid or is still ok ?
 

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Thanks for the instructions. I have a 04.5 LLY. 110,000 miles. Did all the brakes last year and they still had a little spongy feeling in them. I did the power steering flush two night ago, and what a big differance. The brakes and steering feel like they are brand new. WOW... Highly recommended!!!
Thanks again
Chuck

P.S. I used 3 quarts from the dealer. $25.00 Well woth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
^^^ Yer :welcome2: Chuck.
Spring is upon us, along with the towing season. :driver: Time to get 'er ready and say goodbye to Winter. :rocking:
 

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I did the flush just as (HooKMHornS) posted Thank you. I used a clear hose to the drain pan the only type I had at home could have used a plastic ty wrap to clamp not a hose clamp very low press on the drain hose. It helped to tell when the fluid was clear to stop the flush as I could see the hose & the fluid passing though it from the drivers seat when it went over the fender to the drain pan & yes a rag to keep the skin on my hand when removing the hose. I have a black drain pan I couldn't tell what color the fluid was draining into the pan when I did get a look IT WAS BLACK & BURNT.
Also I used a Radator funnel that I had. I heated the bottom up with a propane torch to get it to fit in PS pump but it stayed & I didn't have to replace the cap to run the truck & pump out the old fluid. I droped the cap in the funnel the first time I started up the truck--no splash of fluid so I left it out after that just seamed to make the job go faster. I could see into the pump so I didn't over fill it.
Thanks again for all the great post.
Glenn
 

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