[gregw]

Just got a Power Pop N Lock via UPS. Started to attempt install tonight but have a few questions before proceeding.

1) I have seen guys here commenting that if a person tries to open the gate handle while it is locked that it tends to bind up the lock only to be relieved by loosening the three 13mm bolts. I'm thinking its not worth it if that is the case.

2) Best place to enter the cab with wiring? I too find the E-brake hole/gromet appealing since it is right there. However, I don't want to give our abundant NW moisture a place to get in. If you leave the wires inside the black protective wiring sheath, the gromet doesn't obviously fit properly. Are you guys just putting silicone around this area to weather proof.

I'm still a little apprehensive about this Power Pop N Lock going out on me when I'm hunting in the middle of nowhere.( Carry an extra 13mm wrench handy?)

Can anyone make me fell confident that I made the right choice?

FYI- I'm eventually getting a Leer canopy that will have a remote lock on it.

P.S. Am I the only freaking idiot who broke the top tabs on the handle bezel on the tailgate while removing? Does my replacement/new bezel slip on after I put the power lock in or before?

 

[ABQFirefighter]

I haven't had any problems with mine and I've had it for over 1 year. I did route though the firewall because that was the closest access to the power door locks. I too broke those darn little tabs off, and I was being careful. The new one should go right in, just look at the way the tabs are. I think either the top or bottom go in first, I don't remember off hand. Good luck and stay safe.

 

[gregw]

More....................

Oh yeah, So I am looking at the power lock wiring. I find a tan wire and TWO gray wires. Another is gray with a black stripe. I was using an LED light while looking....but I oculdn't tell if there was a subtle difference in the shades of gray. My only thought was that the gray wire closest to the gray/black WAS NOT going to be the one I need to tap as it might be a pair being so close to the other.

I had some reservation in tapping before confirming. I am going to call Pop N Lock for tech support. I just wanted to throw it out to you guys as you may have encountered the same quandry. My luck....I'd short out a $500 electrical part

 

[ktmrfs]

I've had one for several years, no problems. One comment, if you have a crew cab you can tap into the lock w/o removing the door panel, you can attach under the dash. And, NO you are NOT the only one who has broken the tabs on the bezel.

 

[targaracer]

Mine bound quite a bit when it first went in. I had it put in by a local shop and took it back to be adjusted. They apologized and said the alignment on the install was tricky. Once they fixed it it's worked fine ever since (about two years now). Other than that first week, we haven't had an issue. I'd be fussy with your install though.

I broke the bezel too:

Cheers

Gord

 

[gregw]

Install Complete!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I spoke with Pop N Lock regarding the install. The guy told me that he didn't personally recommend the splice taps that are supplied for the gray/tan wires. He said if it was his personal rig, he would solder the connections and use shrink tubing. He didn't like the idea of electrical tape gumming up and coming off eventually. I didn't like the idea of cutting the wires in the factory harness.

So I carefully strip wire insulation from the power lock wires, I wrap and solder. When I'm electrical taping, the factory wire broke above the solder point. Now what????? I went and got the right size shrink tubing. Concerned that tension and movement would pull the splice of the factory ends apart, I spliced/soldered in about another 2-3" of wire to give plenty of slack for movement/vibration. I'm glad I did because now I have shrink tubing in place. I did the second wire the same way.

TWO SPECIFIC LESSONS I LEARNED in this project.

1)I read other threads where guys hooked everything up to test the lock and nothing happened.
When testing the "tapped into" power lock wires with the Pop N Lock Unit (preliminary test outside of the tailgate to ensure proper wiring), it is necessary to plug in the wiring harnesses into the removed door panel to get it to actuate if you have wired properly in the door. Obviously doesn't apply if you go under the dash.

2) The supplied blue "wire tapping" pieces did not penetrate much, or not at all with one of the wires. I applied them with pliers as recommended. I would also recommend the soldering with the shrink tubing OR buy better "tap in" connectors.

Its installed and works perfectly. No binding of the unit. The only thing I noticed is a little rattle noise of the piston arm when shutting the tailgate. I can live with that.:bounce: