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Hey guys,


Anyone try this set up with the Porkchop torsion lift? The technician I talked with said they will pick up my front end 2-3 inces and give my truck a better ride. If that's the case then why would people crank there keys way up and wear parts out and ruin there ride? This set up costs $650.00. The technician said that they have a setup for my 2004 HD DD 4x4! I'm curious if anyone has used this setup


http://www.tsliftkitstore.com/product_list.asp?id=1246


Thanks,


GregEdited by: jerzflies
 

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Turning up the keys doesn't change the ride.


U are only repositioning or changing the index point on the bars.


They still are carrying the same weight thus have the same twist in the bars.


As for parts wear no matter if u turn them up or air them up u still are changing the angles from stock.


The air ride could give a better ride than stock but thats it.
 

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ditto above
 

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Looks cool...I'll say that.
 

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You just need a tank and some valves to make a low rider. I wonder if you could bounce a Dmax hard enough to get the tires off the ground.
 

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This will impact your steering geometry and CV shaft angle which will dramatically increase the wear on your suspension. Lift kits essentially transfer the change to the drive shafts. That keeps the diff and suspension and steering pretty much on the original plane.
 

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My 2 cents


Cranking up the torsion bars could have negative effects on your truck.


One is the fact that you are changing the ride travel of your suspension. You are increasing the amount of jounce and decreasing the amount of rebound. For instance if the wheels traveled up 100mm and down 100mm and you crank the bars to raise the front end the wheels can then travel up 150mm and down only 50mm. It is true that the amount of preload on the bars is the same, but increasing the amount of jounce travel will increase the amount of torsion the bars will see in jounce. When you force the bars to wind up farther they will push back harder. It takes about twice as much force to stretch a spring twice as far (hooke's law). So, if you hit a dip in the road your truck will have a tendency to want to launch the front end. Since you now only have 50mm of rebound travel before you hit the rubber stop, the front wheels can loose contact with the road.


Keep in mind also that your steering components were designed to operate smoothly and last at certain ride height. At the normal ride height the components are operating at low angles. By increasing the front-end height you are forcing your steering to operate at higher angles all the time. This will cause premature wear. This holds true for your halfshafts as well, they are designed to have low noise and vibes at the designed ride height. They will not last as long and possibly make noise if they operate at higher angles all the time.


I'm not saying that raisin her a bit is out of the question, just don’t crank it as far as she'll go or you'll be sorry later on down the road. If you ever load something real heavy in the bed you might be doin wheelies like a circus jeep. Mine is cranked a bit too; just don’t crank it all the way. If you go in for warranty work on your steering, shocks, or halfshafts and the Z height is out of spec………you know the rest.
 

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Dmax Tim said:
Turning up the keys doesn't change the ride.
On my truck it certainly did.

The stock keys, when cranked, made the truck ride awful. The green keys changed all that. Now, I have the height I wanted AND the ride is still very good.
 

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Mine rides great with the green keys too.. My dad's rides like crap with the stock keys and the bolts cranked.
 

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a friend of mine has used it on a half ton and his seams to ride better. I also have mine turned up a bit. I have thought about doing it my self.
 

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All the green keys do is reindex the torsion bar, same as turning them up, some people run out of threads before getting much lift so the green keys allow for that.


If u set the truck at the same height w/ the stock screws and the green keys w/ the same torsion bars what could change the ride????????


Of course if u are comparing the larger tires that went on after the green keys then u do have a better ride.





Wakeboarder has the key "seams to ride better".
 

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I've heard that before Dmax Tim, and I have no idea.. But how's this for a comparison. My dad and I have identical trucks.. I swapped in the green keys and added 2" lift blocks to the rear, and put on the 315/70R17's. About two months later my dad cranked his torsion bars up, added 2" lift blocks to the rear, and put on the same 315/70R17's. We run the same air pressure in the tires, too, and mine rides way nicer than his does. They rode the same when they were stock, his got much worse on the front end, mine stayed the same except for the odd time you feel the suspension top out. My front end sits about 1" taller than his does, so you'd think that with the weight distribution HIS would ride better.. Since it has more weight transferred to the front end.


I'm not just saying that mine rides better because I like my truck better, he noticed it before I did. It's quite obvious driving them both. I dunno what the science is, but I ain't lying and anyone is welcome to come for a ride in both of our trucks if you don't believe me.
Edited by: Camstyn
 

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green keys only turn the bars.... no science required. It's not confusing and there is no smoke and mirrors. Turning the adjustments on the stock chops allow only so much... you know yourself all the green chops do is give you more turn. Again.... no rocket science. I would think if your's truly has a better ride, it's not because of the green chops themselves but some other reason.

camstyn.... you have the same model truck interior/seats?
 

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Only differences are that his is red, mine is pewter, his interior is tan, mine is charcoal, I've got the steering wheel controls, his has cab marker lights, I've got carpet floor and his is vinyl, and mine has fog lights and tinted rear glass. Other than that they are completely identical, both reg. cab 4x4 LS dmax/6spd's.
 

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I don't think your experience is the rule. Cranking the bars out of spec... especially with the addition of non standard keys cannot equate to a better ride in my opinion.

It's possible your T-bars are not the same.... maybe QC differences in torsion/hardness. Only thing I can think of. I do believe you, just trying to quantify
 

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hoot said:
I would think if your's truly has a better ride, it's not because of the green chops themselves but some other reason.
I gotta disagree with ya on this one. With the stock keys cranked my truck rode pretty choppy. When I added the green keys I got more height and a better ride. That's on the same tires and shocks too.

I can't explain it either, but I know that's how it is.
 

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JimWilson said:
hoot said:
I would think if your's truly has a better ride, it's not because of the green chops themselves but some other reason.
I gotta disagree with ya on this one. With the stock keys cranked my truck rode pretty choppy. When I added the green keys I got more height and a better ride. That's on the same tires and shocks too.

I can't explain it either, but I know that's how it is.

Placebo effect because you wallet is lighter maybe?
 

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Here comes the fun police.


Have you ever noticed the sticker on the back of the torsion bar adjustment that explains how cranking you t-bars to far can cause a shock to break,come loose and disable your braking system? Speaking of shocks the guy above with a better ride than his father probally has better shocks. Even if they are both new and both factory. I bet the one set is already shot. Some factory shocks are bad when you drive them off the lot. Bye the way my truck drove better after I cranked the t-bars just 3/4". Stock keys. I hope all of you are gettting your trucks aligned after you play with your t-bar. Stock,green ,pork chop, steak,it don't matter you all need an alignment. Hey you 2 inchers how does it fill to have no downward travel?
 

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Got the alignment done Bronco, as did my dad..


I'd follow your theory on the shocks being shot but his rode fine before the torsion bar keys were cranked up, just as good as mine did.


I can barely notice that I now have "no downward travel".. Are you sure you're not exaggerating? I've felt it top out lightly a few times but nothing major, mind you I go slow over the speed bumps/curbs and don't try to get air time with it off-road. BTW I measured from the center of the wheel straight up to the fender and I actually got 3" of lift on mine using the green keys. That's with the bolts being backed out farther than they were stock, too.


I've had mine on for 10k miles now and everything is tight, my shocks haven't broken or come loose and disabled my braking system. If it happens I'll be posting here right away and you can point and laugh and say I told you so, but so far so good, I don't see it happening.Edited by: Camstyn
 

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First of all, I would never wish an accident apon someone or laugh when it happens. The rear shocks were impessive. Tons of travel in both directions. The fronts are another story. There is not much room for error. I know the IFS is a little different than a straight axel. The entire shock moves with the a-arm assmebly. That really dosn't require more travel. I just know the stock shocks didn't have much room for error. I do have a friend with a 1500 GMC 4x4. It had IFS. He put 3 inch blocks in the rear and cranked the keys in the front. He also replace the stock shocks with Ranchos. He cleared 33x12.5 BFG MT. on a 10 inch rim. He went to sell the truck at 90K probbaly much more due to the speedo being off. The buyer took it in for inspection before he signed the line. Brakes plus got 2200.00 to replace damn near every componet in the front end. Half shafts,boots you name it. I guess you just need to way that against the price of a real lift kit? I do appreciate thriftness and engunuaity but it has its limits and trade offs. The torsion bars do allow for some adjustment. That is why they are adjustable. Winches,snow plows alignments, prefered ride heights ect.ect. You have to be comfortable with your own mods. Peace be with you.
 
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