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Any popular car/mobile audio forums? Need to do some reading, researching, etc. to help/guide me to installing my system. I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Popular car/mobile audio forums?
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Is that:
12volt.com
the12volt.com
I checked 12volt.com and I didn't see any links to forums.
12volt.com
the12volt.com
I checked 12volt.com and I didn't see any links to forums.
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That's the site I visited and I didn't see any where that it links you to a forum.
You can also check out www.elitecaraudio.com
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My mind keeps going back and forth. Grr! At times, I feel extremely confident that I can do it, and at other times I feel that I can't do it. I had to pull my radio over the weekend because my steering wheel controls stopped working for some odd reason, checked all the wiring and everything was fine. Reprogrammed it and it started working again. I noticed on the back of the unit that it had 6 red and white inputs/outputs on it. One of the was SW which I would guess is for a sub woofer. If indeed that's what it is, how would I hook up 2 of them is there's only a spot for one? It had 4 other ones labeled F and R I guess for front speakers and rear speakers. I just want to be sure I know what I'm doing before I start it and most of all, that I have everything.
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You have both high level outputs and low level outputs.
The high level outputs are the speaker level outputs and are colored white, green, violet and grey for the positive leads with a black stripe added for the negative leads. These are used when not running an amp.
The low level leads are the RCA's. These carry the source signals to the amps. The amps then amplify the input'ed source signal and route that signal out the speaker terminals of the amps. Therefore the speakers to not connect directly to the head unit when using the low level outputs. And yes, the one labeled SW is the output for the subwoofer and F is front and R is rear.
You had great confidence a couple of weeks ago and seemed ready to make the plunge. What happened?
John
The high level outputs are the speaker level outputs and are colored white, green, violet and grey for the positive leads with a black stripe added for the negative leads. These are used when not running an amp.
The low level leads are the RCA's. These carry the source signals to the amps. The amps then amplify the input'ed source signal and route that signal out the speaker terminals of the amps. Therefore the speakers to not connect directly to the head unit when using the low level outputs. And yes, the one labeled SW is the output for the subwoofer and F is front and R is rear.
You had great confidence a couple of weeks ago and seemed ready to make the plunge. What happened?
John
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6APPEAL, that make a little more sense now. So...since I am using amps, I don't need to worry about all the colored wires you mentioned, I'll be making my connections through the amps which will be linked by RCAs? Then the signal thats amplified from the amps is carried over to the subs and you have an amplified sound? Is that correct? If there is a front and rear sub, but both my subs will be in the rear, how is that going to work or does it matter?
How are the amps connected to the subs? What will be used there?
Summary: The radio is connected to the amps by RCAs. There are 6 speakers all together, 2 components (front), 2 coaxles (rear), and 2 subs (rear). So that means I will need 6 RCAs and RCAs come with a black and a red right? If so, there is only 6 spots on the back of the radio, not 12.
Here, I've attached pics of the back of both amps, tell me what is and isn't going to be used and how/where its going to be used. Thanks. This is why I lost the confidence.
Grrr...that makes me just as mad. I was hoping you were going to reply. Its obvious I need all the help I can get because for one, I don't have much confidence in myself to do it and 2, I've never done it before. I always get so intimidated on stuff I've never performed before. What would be different from you typing it out in a post and sending it an email?
14 shouldn't be in use because I don't have a back up camera which I hope to have one day. However, there is a separate plug for the antenna that comes off the radio, that is plugged into the 40GM10, then into the factory antenna. This should be completely different than the input terminal for the back up camera.
13 is used. I have the PAC SWI-ALP to interface the steering wheel controls.
10 should be the actual RCAs and 16, 17, and 18 are the outputs for the subwoofer, front speakers, and rear speakers.
11 is a harness that came with the head unit, that is already taken care of and in use. Whew, lots of wires there.
23 is in the harness that came with the head unit, but its only 1 wire. How am I suppose to run 1 wire to 2 amps? You state that I need to run 16 ga. wire back to the amps. How am I suppose to change the (1) blue/white wire that's already there to 16 ga.?
26 and 27 is in use. I have them wired into the PAC TR-7 for video bypass. I though you knew about my Alpine IVA-W200 and all the adapters/harnesses I used. This would of saved you some time on some of these connections.
32-39 so when I swap to the new equipment using amps, I'll use RCAs to connect to the amps and that basically bypasses the connections to the speakers. The wires that are already connected to the factory harness for the speakers, do they stay in place or will they need to be cut?
41 is a harness that came with the head unit as well. What exactly is it and where does it go?
By the way, if I wanted to use an external/separate bass knob, where would that go in all these connections? Also, any particular one you recommend?
I cannot thank you enough. You're a BIG help and you just made things so much easier. Its really starting to come together. I really appreciate you taking the time to do all of this.
So then I need 3 sets of RCAs correct? 1 for the subs, 1 for the front speakers, and 1 for the rear speakers? Each RCA comes with a red and black wire that has connectors at both ends.
The only reason why I wanted a bass knob is to turn the bass DOWN if I ever just didn't feel like a lot of bass or needed to turn it down for whatever reason. I really wasn't wanting this for boost purposes, but for control/level purposes. So is a boost bass knob and bass control knob 2 different things?
On that box that you built for that crew cab 3500, did you have to completely remove the air vents or just cut/modify them? I thought we needed those vents so that when you close the doors, it releases the pressure built up inside the cab. If you're willing to send me the diagram of the box that you built, that would be great because I wanted to build it just the way you described it, in between the vents and just below the bottom of the window.
Again, thank you so much for all your help. Its shows a lot about your character and I greatly appreciate it.
I may have worded it wrong above or something, but yes, I did know that RCAs aren't exposed wires. Its pretty much like the audio video cables you use for TVs and whatnot, except it doesn't have the yellow wire. Am I correct? You say (3) 2 channel RCAs will be just right, but I remember you saying something about (2) 4 channel RCAs will work as well. Wouldn't that be 8 connections?
I don't remember if I used the blue/white (23) wire because there were so many of them. I may have, but not sure. So you're saying when I go to install the new equipment, I'm going to cut that wire from the PAC OS2-Bose? I know that the blue/white wire is in the harness that came with the head unit, but I don't remember where it went if indeed I used it. I get the part where you're saying to run a 16 ga. wire to the amps, strip the wire back, then solder 2 pieces of wires to go to each amp, but is that really safe and the best way to do it? I'm not doubting you, just seems kinda like I'm riggin' it, but again, you know I'm no expert. So once I do that, where are those wire going to go in the amps? By the way, when I solder those 2 wires to the 16 ga. wire, do I use 16 ga. there as well for both wires?
I really didn't get what you were trying to say about the bass knob info either. Again, the only reason why I was wanting one is so that I could have quick access for level control, not for boost purposes. So you're saying that the head unit that I have DOES or DOES not have this feature? I only want level control in case I don't feel like hearing a lot of bass one day for whatever reason.
If I removed the vents, will it have any negative affect? I mean, I'm sure they're there for a reason. I want to make sure that everything will be ok, before I remove or modify them.
Any difference between (3) 2 channel RCAs and (1) 2 channel and (1) 4 channel?
So the blue/white wire that is in use right now, I will cut it and run it back to the amps, then when it gets close to the amps, solder 2 more 16 ga. wire to split off to the 500/1 and 300/4. Those wires will go in the smaller hole on the left side of the back of the amp titled Remote? I got the part on the amp end, but HOW exactly do you want me to do it on the radio side? It'll be the blue/white wire coming off the head unit's harness correct?
On the pic you added to your garage, can you explain what is what in the picture and where it will be going? Why is there a big black and red cable/wire coming from the bottom of the truck towards the back? What about the blue wire coming from the front of the truck that's coiled up towards the back of the truck? Thanks.
I'll just stick with (3) 2 channel RCAs. What do you recommend? Are JL Audio and Streetwires a waste of money/overpriced?
So the blue/white wire coming off the head unit's harnless I'll solder the 16 ga. wire to it? I though you said something about running the 16 ga. wire all the way to the back of the radio's connector. Will there be any problem going from the blue/white wire to 16 ga. wire? I don't know off hand what size (gauge) wire the blue/white wire is, that's why I ask.
Do I need to run the black and red wire to the back of the truck? If so, do I have to do it like you did in the photo and do I have to run that big of wire? Also, you stated that it was 1/0, where is that going to fit because neither does the 300/4 or the 500/1 have a hole that big.
So basically it'll be similar to what you have layed out that I'll need to do. Power, ground, remote, and RCAs will all need to be ran from the front of the truck. Then I'll need wire coming off the amps to all the speakers correct? That's going to be a lot of wire since there will 8 speakers and all 8 will need 2 wires each right?
How many distribution blocks will I need?
What are your thoughts on Kicker amp kits and RCAs?
Would 0 ga. be overkill or is that sufficient for my setup?
With the drawing that you emailed me, will those fit 10W3V3s? Does the box have sufficient space to fit them? I know its tight.
Also, I talked to the guy I'm buying the equipment from and that's where I got the info above from. He said that I should run the power wire the opposite side of the RCAs or as far apart as possible. Is this true?
The guy I'm buying the equipment from can get me a 0 gauge kit for $125. Not sure how much they retail for. He also quote me $40 for a (1) 4 channel RCAs and $20 for (1) 2 channel RCAs. He said that he would recommend the Kicker 0 gauge because its extremely flexable, more so than any others out there. He stated that JL Audio and Streetwires is good stuff, but way overpriced. What do you feel is sufficient/optimum?
Since you designed/built that box for 12W6s, do you think I should consider using them as opposed to the new 10W3V3s? Would there be much of a difference in sound?
Wouldn't making a depression on the box for more room for the back of the subwoofer cause conflict? I mean how is that even possible as it sits up against the back wall? I may not even be thinking what you're talking about.
If I ran 8W3s, they only come in the V2 version, not the V3. Optimum power for those subs is 125w, so if I used the JL Audio 500/1, then I would want to run 4 of them. How do you think (4) 8W3V2s would sound compared to (2) 10W3V3s?
If the 0 ga. is overkill, then there's no reason for me to run it as I don't plan to upgrade. What the next size up, 2 ga.?
I hate to waste money on RCAs. I've heard so many different opinions/suggestions as to what brand to use. Is there really a big difference? Let's say I could get a hook up on the JL Audio RCAs and I can, just haven't priced them out yet. How would they compare to the Monster RCAs you suggested or even the Kicker?
How much would I have to move my seat forward to run the 10W3V3s? Then to throw this way out of whack, what about (2) 8W7s? I'm trying to match up subs that will be optimum for the 500/1 amp as I can't afford to step up to the 1000/1 which is next in line. Its too bad that they don't have one in between.
Do you know if JL Audio is coming out with anything new soon?
So the box that you sent me in an email wouldn't have enough air space for (4) 8W3s? What's the difference between the V2s and V3s in the 8s? You're sure that they have a 8W3V3? With optimum amount of air space, what would sound better and hit harder, (4) 8W3s or (2) 10W3s?
I talked to the guy I'm buying the equipment from again today and he said that he didn't feel that the 0 ga. was overkill because JL Audio amps are funny sometimes if you don't have enough wire (thickness) and it'll keep shutting off.
How do I know what's bottom of the line and top of the line? I know you say brand really doesn't matter, but what sets apart the good ones from the ok ones? Is it based solely on price? There has to be something different about them which would cause them to be more expensive.
Ok, scratch the 8W7s. I just threw that out there. Didn't realize they were that much deeper.
I definitely don't want to be underpowered and if you're saying it won't hurt to be overpowered a little, then so be it. The 500/1 really kind of limits me to what I run. Again, the next step up would be the 1000/1 and if I did that amp, then I would need to do more or bigger speakers.
What setup would work well with the 1000/1 that would be a little over powered? How about (3) 10W3V3s? That would be 900 watts total. If I moved the seat up 1/2"-1", would I have enough air space to run (3) 10W3V3s? As a matter of fact, that sounds like a really good idea...and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you're going to reply that if I move my seat up 1/2"-1", that I'll have enough airspace for (3) 10W3V3s!
Here are my options since there's no way I plan on waiting till March. Wait...that's just right around the corner! I wonder how accurate JL Audio is about releasing their stuff. Hrmm...
So if I waited, then I would have 4 more possibilities.
(4) 8W3V3 w/a 500/1 (600 watts on subs)
(2) 12TW5-4 w/a 500/1 (600 watts on subs)
(3) 12TW5-4 w/a 1000/1 (900 watts on subs)
(2) 13TW5-4 w/a 1000/1 (800 watts on subs)
Or if I didn't want to wait.
(2) 10W3V3 w/a 500/1 (600 watts on subs)
(4) 8W3V2 w/a 500/1 (500 watts on subs)
(3) 10W3V3 w/a 1000/1 (900 watts on subs)
What do you feel whether I waited or not, would be the best option? The 8W3V2s, 8W3V3s, 12TW5-4s, and the 13TW5-4s, won't require me to move my seat. The rest of the options will.
How do you think the new thin line series are going to perform and what do you feel they will be closest to in sound/performance?
The CL-RLC is definitely something I will get once it comes out.
I guess what it boils down to is what setup I'm going to run after all. I thought I was already set on equipment.
According to JL Audio's site, the 8W3V3s will be available in March.
3rd quarter for the TW5 series which the beginning of the 3rd quarter is September.
My only options as of right now are:
1. (4) 8W3V2s w/a 500/1
2. (2) 10W3V3s w/a 500/1
3. (3) 10W3V3s w/a 1000/1
The 2nd and 3rd choice would require me to move my seat up correct? What would be the minimum on the 2nd setup and then on the 3rd? If this was your truck/choice, what would you do if you wanted to do this next week?
I was mixed up, July would be the beginning of the 3rd quarter.
6APPEAL, where did you go?!!!:help:
No telling how accurate JL Audio is about releasing their stuff. They advertise March for the 8W3V3s, but is that the beginning or end and how accurate? I can either do (2) 10W3V2s with the 500/1, (4) 8W3V2s with the 500/1, or if I want to go extreme, then (3) 10W3V3s with a 1000/1.
I don't want to have to do this all over again. I want to maximize my wants/needs, so I'll probably end up doing the (3) 10W3V3s with the 1000/1.
Below is a link to a diagram which displays the back of the 1000/1. There are only 2 provisions for subs, how will I connect 3 of them?
Also, I will only need 1 set of 2 channel RCAs for the mono amp, where will it go? What are the other 2 jacks for?
Sorry to hear about your complications. I had a feeling something was going wrong. Kinda had me worried believe it or not.
6APPEAL, are you able to modify the drawing you sent me to accommodate (3) 10W3V3s with proper measurements, air space, seat moved forward 1", etc. Thanks!
Is there more than one 10W3V3? Below I have attached a pic that I made in Paint. Is this what you're talking about or am I way off about wiring up 3 subs, but the amp only has 2 subwoofer outputs.
Also, the box diagram you sent me, how much airspace will each sub have? By looking at the numbers, I'm going to guess .75 cu. ft. before sub displacement. Also, if I build it exactly to your diagram, this will fit in my truck with me moving my seat up 1" and having all the right demensions?
With (3) 10W3V3s and the 1000/1, will I then need bracing inside?
[URL="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c217/jrecamss/SubSetup.jpg"]
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
[/URL]
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
So between the 3, I need the -8? What's the difference and why is there 3?
Wow, close to 5 lbs. of polyfill?
Any particular glue you recommend?
Do lumber yards have MDF or is it consider a specialty wood and I'll have to get it elsewhere?
When you specify nails 1.5"-2", you do mean air gun nails correct?
I spent most of my day making this diagram of the entire setup. Whewww! I'm exhaust. I really did spend A LOT of time on it. Looks pretty good. Does everything look right so far?
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Also, what do you think of KnuKonceptz products for wires and RCAs? What about Stinger? For some reason I keep leaning towards the Kicker 1/0 kit. Lastly, do you think with (3) 10W3V3s and a 1000/1 that my other setup (components & coaxles) are not enough?
How are the amps connected to the subs? What will be used there?
Summary: The radio is connected to the amps by RCAs. There are 6 speakers all together, 2 components (front), 2 coaxles (rear), and 2 subs (rear). So that means I will need 6 RCAs and RCAs come with a black and a red right? If so, there is only 6 spots on the back of the radio, not 12.
Here, I've attached pics of the back of both amps, tell me what is and isn't going to be used and how/where its going to be used. Thanks. This is why I lost the confidence.
Grrr...that makes me just as mad. I was hoping you were going to reply. Its obvious I need all the help I can get because for one, I don't have much confidence in myself to do it and 2, I've never done it before. I always get so intimidated on stuff I've never performed before. What would be different from you typing it out in a post and sending it an email?
14 shouldn't be in use because I don't have a back up camera which I hope to have one day. However, there is a separate plug for the antenna that comes off the radio, that is plugged into the 40GM10, then into the factory antenna. This should be completely different than the input terminal for the back up camera.
13 is used. I have the PAC SWI-ALP to interface the steering wheel controls.
10 should be the actual RCAs and 16, 17, and 18 are the outputs for the subwoofer, front speakers, and rear speakers.
11 is a harness that came with the head unit, that is already taken care of and in use. Whew, lots of wires there.
23 is in the harness that came with the head unit, but its only 1 wire. How am I suppose to run 1 wire to 2 amps? You state that I need to run 16 ga. wire back to the amps. How am I suppose to change the (1) blue/white wire that's already there to 16 ga.?
26 and 27 is in use. I have them wired into the PAC TR-7 for video bypass. I though you knew about my Alpine IVA-W200 and all the adapters/harnesses I used. This would of saved you some time on some of these connections.
32-39 so when I swap to the new equipment using amps, I'll use RCAs to connect to the amps and that basically bypasses the connections to the speakers. The wires that are already connected to the factory harness for the speakers, do they stay in place or will they need to be cut?
41 is a harness that came with the head unit as well. What exactly is it and where does it go?
By the way, if I wanted to use an external/separate bass knob, where would that go in all these connections? Also, any particular one you recommend?
I cannot thank you enough. You're a BIG help and you just made things so much easier. Its really starting to come together. I really appreciate you taking the time to do all of this.
So then I need 3 sets of RCAs correct? 1 for the subs, 1 for the front speakers, and 1 for the rear speakers? Each RCA comes with a red and black wire that has connectors at both ends.
Could you please elaborate on this more please. Any way you could do a drawing of this or a small diagram. What I don't get is how am I suppose to connect that 16 ga. wire to the back of the head unit when the harness is plugged in. The harness has that blue/white wire in the harness. Also, if and when I get that situated, how exactly do I split it off to go to both amps (pigtail as you put it)?
I used the PAC OS2-Bose. The factor harness plugged into the OS2-Bose then the other end was connected to the harness coming off the radio.
The only reason why I wanted a bass knob is to turn the bass DOWN if I ever just didn't feel like a lot of bass or needed to turn it down for whatever reason. I really wasn't wanting this for boost purposes, but for control/level purposes. So is a boost bass knob and bass control knob 2 different things?
On that box that you built for that crew cab 3500, did you have to completely remove the air vents or just cut/modify them? I thought we needed those vents so that when you close the doors, it releases the pressure built up inside the cab. If you're willing to send me the diagram of the box that you built, that would be great because I wanted to build it just the way you described it, in between the vents and just below the bottom of the window.
Again, thank you so much for all your help. Its shows a lot about your character and I greatly appreciate it.
I may have worded it wrong above or something, but yes, I did know that RCAs aren't exposed wires. Its pretty much like the audio video cables you use for TVs and whatnot, except it doesn't have the yellow wire. Am I correct? You say (3) 2 channel RCAs will be just right, but I remember you saying something about (2) 4 channel RCAs will work as well. Wouldn't that be 8 connections?
I don't remember if I used the blue/white (23) wire because there were so many of them. I may have, but not sure. So you're saying when I go to install the new equipment, I'm going to cut that wire from the PAC OS2-Bose? I know that the blue/white wire is in the harness that came with the head unit, but I don't remember where it went if indeed I used it. I get the part where you're saying to run a 16 ga. wire to the amps, strip the wire back, then solder 2 pieces of wires to go to each amp, but is that really safe and the best way to do it? I'm not doubting you, just seems kinda like I'm riggin' it, but again, you know I'm no expert. So once I do that, where are those wire going to go in the amps? By the way, when I solder those 2 wires to the 16 ga. wire, do I use 16 ga. there as well for both wires?
I really didn't get what you were trying to say about the bass knob info either. Again, the only reason why I was wanting one is so that I could have quick access for level control, not for boost purposes. So you're saying that the head unit that I have DOES or DOES not have this feature? I only want level control in case I don't feel like hearing a lot of bass one day for whatever reason.
If I removed the vents, will it have any negative affect? I mean, I'm sure they're there for a reason. I want to make sure that everything will be ok, before I remove or modify them.
Any difference between (3) 2 channel RCAs and (1) 2 channel and (1) 4 channel?
So the blue/white wire that is in use right now, I will cut it and run it back to the amps, then when it gets close to the amps, solder 2 more 16 ga. wire to split off to the 500/1 and 300/4. Those wires will go in the smaller hole on the left side of the back of the amp titled Remote? I got the part on the amp end, but HOW exactly do you want me to do it on the radio side? It'll be the blue/white wire coming off the head unit's harness correct?
On the pic you added to your garage, can you explain what is what in the picture and where it will be going? Why is there a big black and red cable/wire coming from the bottom of the truck towards the back? What about the blue wire coming from the front of the truck that's coiled up towards the back of the truck? Thanks.
I'll just stick with (3) 2 channel RCAs. What do you recommend? Are JL Audio and Streetwires a waste of money/overpriced?
So the blue/white wire coming off the head unit's harnless I'll solder the 16 ga. wire to it? I though you said something about running the 16 ga. wire all the way to the back of the radio's connector. Will there be any problem going from the blue/white wire to 16 ga. wire? I don't know off hand what size (gauge) wire the blue/white wire is, that's why I ask.
Do I need to run the black and red wire to the back of the truck? If so, do I have to do it like you did in the photo and do I have to run that big of wire? Also, you stated that it was 1/0, where is that going to fit because neither does the 300/4 or the 500/1 have a hole that big.
So basically it'll be similar to what you have layed out that I'll need to do. Power, ground, remote, and RCAs will all need to be ran from the front of the truck. Then I'll need wire coming off the amps to all the speakers correct? That's going to be a lot of wire since there will 8 speakers and all 8 will need 2 wires each right?
How many distribution blocks will I need?
What are your thoughts on Kicker amp kits and RCAs?
Would 0 ga. be overkill or is that sufficient for my setup?
With the drawing that you emailed me, will those fit 10W3V3s? Does the box have sufficient space to fit them? I know its tight.
Also, I talked to the guy I'm buying the equipment from and that's where I got the info above from. He said that I should run the power wire the opposite side of the RCAs or as far apart as possible. Is this true?
The guy I'm buying the equipment from can get me a 0 gauge kit for $125. Not sure how much they retail for. He also quote me $40 for a (1) 4 channel RCAs and $20 for (1) 2 channel RCAs. He said that he would recommend the Kicker 0 gauge because its extremely flexable, more so than any others out there. He stated that JL Audio and Streetwires is good stuff, but way overpriced. What do you feel is sufficient/optimum?
Since you designed/built that box for 12W6s, do you think I should consider using them as opposed to the new 10W3V3s? Would there be much of a difference in sound?
Wouldn't making a depression on the box for more room for the back of the subwoofer cause conflict? I mean how is that even possible as it sits up against the back wall? I may not even be thinking what you're talking about.
If I ran 8W3s, they only come in the V2 version, not the V3. Optimum power for those subs is 125w, so if I used the JL Audio 500/1, then I would want to run 4 of them. How do you think (4) 8W3V2s would sound compared to (2) 10W3V3s?
If the 0 ga. is overkill, then there's no reason for me to run it as I don't plan to upgrade. What the next size up, 2 ga.?
I hate to waste money on RCAs. I've heard so many different opinions/suggestions as to what brand to use. Is there really a big difference? Let's say I could get a hook up on the JL Audio RCAs and I can, just haven't priced them out yet. How would they compare to the Monster RCAs you suggested or even the Kicker?
How much would I have to move my seat forward to run the 10W3V3s? Then to throw this way out of whack, what about (2) 8W7s? I'm trying to match up subs that will be optimum for the 500/1 amp as I can't afford to step up to the 1000/1 which is next in line. Its too bad that they don't have one in between.
Do you know if JL Audio is coming out with anything new soon?
So the box that you sent me in an email wouldn't have enough air space for (4) 8W3s? What's the difference between the V2s and V3s in the 8s? You're sure that they have a 8W3V3? With optimum amount of air space, what would sound better and hit harder, (4) 8W3s or (2) 10W3s?
I talked to the guy I'm buying the equipment from again today and he said that he didn't feel that the 0 ga. was overkill because JL Audio amps are funny sometimes if you don't have enough wire (thickness) and it'll keep shutting off.
How do I know what's bottom of the line and top of the line? I know you say brand really doesn't matter, but what sets apart the good ones from the ok ones? Is it based solely on price? There has to be something different about them which would cause them to be more expensive.
Ok, scratch the 8W7s. I just threw that out there. Didn't realize they were that much deeper.
I definitely don't want to be underpowered and if you're saying it won't hurt to be overpowered a little, then so be it. The 500/1 really kind of limits me to what I run. Again, the next step up would be the 1000/1 and if I did that amp, then I would need to do more or bigger speakers.
What setup would work well with the 1000/1 that would be a little over powered? How about (3) 10W3V3s? That would be 900 watts total. If I moved the seat up 1/2"-1", would I have enough air space to run (3) 10W3V3s? As a matter of fact, that sounds like a really good idea...and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you're going to reply that if I move my seat up 1/2"-1", that I'll have enough airspace for (3) 10W3V3s!
Here are my options since there's no way I plan on waiting till March. Wait...that's just right around the corner! I wonder how accurate JL Audio is about releasing their stuff. Hrmm...
So if I waited, then I would have 4 more possibilities.
(4) 8W3V3 w/a 500/1 (600 watts on subs)
(2) 12TW5-4 w/a 500/1 (600 watts on subs)
(3) 12TW5-4 w/a 1000/1 (900 watts on subs)
(2) 13TW5-4 w/a 1000/1 (800 watts on subs)
Or if I didn't want to wait.
(2) 10W3V3 w/a 500/1 (600 watts on subs)
(4) 8W3V2 w/a 500/1 (500 watts on subs)
(3) 10W3V3 w/a 1000/1 (900 watts on subs)
What do you feel whether I waited or not, would be the best option? The 8W3V2s, 8W3V3s, 12TW5-4s, and the 13TW5-4s, won't require me to move my seat. The rest of the options will.
How do you think the new thin line series are going to perform and what do you feel they will be closest to in sound/performance?
The CL-RLC is definitely something I will get once it comes out.
I guess what it boils down to is what setup I'm going to run after all. I thought I was already set on equipment.
According to JL Audio's site, the 8W3V3s will be available in March.
3rd quarter for the TW5 series which the beginning of the 3rd quarter is September.
My only options as of right now are:
1. (4) 8W3V2s w/a 500/1
2. (2) 10W3V3s w/a 500/1
3. (3) 10W3V3s w/a 1000/1
The 2nd and 3rd choice would require me to move my seat up correct? What would be the minimum on the 2nd setup and then on the 3rd? If this was your truck/choice, what would you do if you wanted to do this next week?
I was mixed up, July would be the beginning of the 3rd quarter.
6APPEAL, where did you go?!!!:help:
No telling how accurate JL Audio is about releasing their stuff. They advertise March for the 8W3V3s, but is that the beginning or end and how accurate? I can either do (2) 10W3V2s with the 500/1, (4) 8W3V2s with the 500/1, or if I want to go extreme, then (3) 10W3V3s with a 1000/1.
I don't want to have to do this all over again. I want to maximize my wants/needs, so I'll probably end up doing the (3) 10W3V3s with the 1000/1.
Below is a link to a diagram which displays the back of the 1000/1. There are only 2 provisions for subs, how will I connect 3 of them?
Also, I will only need 1 set of 2 channel RCAs for the mono amp, where will it go? What are the other 2 jacks for?
Sorry to hear about your complications. I had a feeling something was going wrong. Kinda had me worried believe it or not.
6APPEAL, are you able to modify the drawing you sent me to accommodate (3) 10W3V3s with proper measurements, air space, seat moved forward 1", etc. Thanks!
Is there more than one 10W3V3? Below I have attached a pic that I made in Paint. Is this what you're talking about or am I way off about wiring up 3 subs, but the amp only has 2 subwoofer outputs.
Also, the box diagram you sent me, how much airspace will each sub have? By looking at the numbers, I'm going to guess .75 cu. ft. before sub displacement. Also, if I build it exactly to your diagram, this will fit in my truck with me moving my seat up 1" and having all the right demensions?
With (3) 10W3V3s and the 1000/1, will I then need bracing inside?
[URL="http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c217/jrecamss/SubSetup.jpg"]
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[/URL]
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So between the 3, I need the -8? What's the difference and why is there 3?
Wow, close to 5 lbs. of polyfill?
Any particular glue you recommend?
Do lumber yards have MDF or is it consider a specialty wood and I'll have to get it elsewhere?
When you specify nails 1.5"-2", you do mean air gun nails correct?
I spent most of my day making this diagram of the entire setup. Whewww! I'm exhaust. I really did spend A LOT of time on it. Looks pretty good. Does everything look right so far?
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Also, what do you think of KnuKonceptz products for wires and RCAs? What about Stinger? For some reason I keep leaning towards the Kicker 1/0 kit. Lastly, do you think with (3) 10W3V3s and a 1000/1 that my other setup (components & coaxles) are not enough?
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[email protected]@@@@ppppppp!!!!!!!!!!! I had it all typed out and lost it. Fricking timeout feature on my laptop. E-mail or PM me your e-mail address and I'll put together a document for you since I have all the owners manuals. Plus it was more than a little long for a post. Do you have Word?
John
The post is going to be very long. I'll work on the post tomorrow.
John
Here ya go
Correct, you will not need the high power speaker leads from the head unit.
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual in from of you since I will be referring to the number connections (Connections section, page 70/71 in my PDF copy).
1, 14 – antenna, you need this and should be in use now since you are using the head unit.
2, 3, 4, 5 and 13 – not needed.
6 and 7 – not needed.
8 – if you have or plan to use a backup camera, yes, otherwise not used.
9 – not needed.
10, 16, 17 and 18 – yes, these are the RCA connections and the RCA cables.
11 – yes. The plug for 23 – 39
12 – no. Fiber connection for other Alpine stuff.
15 – if you plan on using an Alpine nav unit, $$$$$$$.
19, 40 – if you plan on using an iPod, yes, otherwise no.
20, 21, 22 – if you plan on using an Alpine CD/DVD changer, yes, otherwise no.
23 – yes. Turn-on lead for amps. You need to run a wire back to the amps (16 ga).
24 – no.
25 – if you have OnStar or a cell phone mount, yes, otherwise no.
26, 27 – yes. I found out they need to be “faked out” with a PAC-TR7 module. Prevents a bunch of headaches with wiring. If you wire it up by Alpines directions you need to play with a combination of the footbrake and the hand brake to bypass the video safety "feature" (PIA, gotta love the gov regs). The TR-7 is triggered off the w200 remote turn on wire, so everytime the unit powers up the video safety is automaticly bypassed. If not used the radio will work, but you will not be able to access many of the other functions of the radio (ie: iPersonalize).
28, 29, 31 – yes.
32 – 39 – for now yes. When you go to amps, no.
41 – yes
500/1
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual or amp in from of you since I will be referring to the connection sections from left to right.
Power/Ground/Remote – Yes. Remote turn come from head unit (#23 above).
Preamp Output Section – Nothing used here.
Advanced Bass Control:
Infrasonic Filter – I would not use, but read manual to determine if you want to use. If you do use, set Infrasonic Filter to between 22 and 30 Hz.
Bass Eq – I would not use. If left off the rest of the controls in the section are not used either.
Amp LP Filter: Be sure you have sub set to on in the IVA-W200 (part of the system setup starting on page 33 of owners manual)
Mode/Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Amplifier Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Signal Sensing – Not used since you are running a remote turn-on lead (#23 above).
Left/Right Ch – Yes, your sub RCA inputs from sub on head unit.
Subwoofer Output – Yes, where your speaker leads for you subs go.
300/4
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual or amp in from of you since I will be referring to the connection sections from left to right.
Power/Ground/Remote – Yes. Remote turn come from head unit (#23 above).
Rear Filter Controls:
Freq Range – Set to 1x.
Filter Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Filter Mode – Set to HP (high pass)
Rear Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Left/Right Ch – Yes, your rear channel RCA inputs from rear on head unit.
Rear Speaker Outputs – Yes. Left and right rear door speaker wires.
Front Filter Controls:
Freq Range – Set to 1x.
Filter Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Filter Mode – Set to HP (high pass)
Front Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Input Mode – Set to 4ch.
Left/Right Ch – Yes, your front channel RCA inputs from front on head unit.
Front Speaker Outputs – Yes. Left and right front door speaker wires. The speaker end will connect to the input on your crossover of your front component set.
Told you it was going to be long, but that is every connection on the electronics. Next??????:
John
Glad to be of help. You have to start somewhere, just take your time and read the directions a couple of times. I left the manuals at the office. I'll catch this in the morning.
Personally I found the unit setup options more imtimidating than the wiring.
John
It plugs into the back of the head unit. I think I was confusing one of the connections on it (#6) with #14. You will need the #8 connection on the #41 harness for the backup camera. Looks like it plugs in beside #13 for your steering wheel controls
I would build the sub box first and do some sound deadening at the same time. I do have a diagram of a box that I did for a GMC 3500 CC that I'm planning on expanding on to build my behind the seat box. I could e-mail it to you after updating it for your woofers. It came up to the bottom of the rear glass trim panel and fit between the side trim panels. You do have to remove the rear air ducts from behind the seat. Sorry I don't have any pics of it.
John
John
John
The blue wire running down the center is the amp turn on lead.
There is a RCA cable coiled in the rear pass area for the sub amp and 2 pair of RCA cables coiled in the rear driver area for the 4 channel amp for the front and rear.
There are some other cable running down the drivers side for the CD changer and XM radio. You can see them coiled up by the RCA cables in the rear on that side.
John
John
I'll look at tweaking the box measurements. Do me a favor and measure from the back wall of your cab to the back of the rear seat just above the seat rail across the back of the seat. I'll measure mine again to see if I can get some more space for you. All you really need is another 1/2" of depth.
John
I did some looking at the 10W3V3 vs the 10W3V2 vs the 10W1V2 and there is virtually no difference in the woofers except the motor assembly (magnet structure). I also plugged them into my bass box software and found the same thing. The W1 will fit the easiest due to it's smaller motor (4.34" deep, 4.45" wide), but will produce the least amount of SPL. The W3V2 (5.75"deep, 5.79" wide) will fit better than the W3V3, but will still require some work to make it fit. The W3V3 is a bear with the most depth and largest magnet footprint (5.93" deep, 5.25" wide). Based on mounting depth the 10W1 is your best bet. Have you listened to them?
Just a thought, have you thought about or heard the 8W3V2 or 8W3V3? Awesome little woofer. You could run 3 of them instead of 2 10's in the same size box. In my old S-10 extra-cab I had 3 8W6's that flat rocked. I could look at changing the box to allow you to keep the vent tubes since you would only need about 1.2 cu ft for the 3 8's.
I double checked the max box size and what I sent you is it. No more room can be had.
John
As far as matching to "optimum power" I will be well beyond the optimum power spec'ed for my woofers. Having more power than needed in not a bad thing. My woofers are rated for 300 watts max and I have 3 of them, so that's 900 watts max power. My new sub amp is power tested to put out 1200 watts of clean power. I don't plan on turning the knob wide open and leaving it there. Don't get too caught up in power ratings. Way back when I ran 2 Kicker subs rated for 500 watts each on an amp putting out 1700 watts. When I was running the 3 8W6's I had more amp power than they were rated for. Not enough power kills woofers quicker than too much power. Distortion kills, not power.
John
The V3 handles a little more power and can go in a smaller box. Until I am able to get more of the specs I can’t plug it into my Bass Box software to plot the difference. The V2 provides more flexibility with the impedance and voice coil configuration.
Press release info
8W3v3
Nominal Diameter: 8.0 in. (200 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 150 W
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax): 0.38 in. (9.7 mm)
Nominal Impedance: Single 4 ohm or Single 8 ohm
Mounting Depth: 4.63 in. (118 mm)
Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.20-0.40 cu.ft. (5.7-11.3 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 0.30-0.50 cu.ft. (8.5-14.2 liters)
Available: March, 2007
The shop I use says they can order them now, so I assume the shop you are buying from can also.
Either setup would sound good. The 4 8’s would be punchier, sound tighter (smaller woofer) and be louder (more cone area). The 2 10’s will play a little lower, but not by much.
:
:
Personally I can’t wait until the new TW5 woofer comes out. It’s a thin mount sub like the thin mount Poineer. The info on them sounds good, so I may wait until they come out and do 3 of the 13TW5's.
Another new product that you will be interested in is the CL-RLC Remote Level Control / Line Driver. That would take care of you wanting a level control for you subs.
John
Choices, choices, choices. Any of the choices will work and sound good with the only real differences being SPL output and low frequency output (lower than 35hz). But I think that they will all be within 3db of each other in SPL. And pretty close in low frequency output with the upper hand going to the larger drivers.
JL is pretty good at releasing their stuff on time. I hope you paid attention to the release date on the TW5 series. They did not specify whether it would be the beginning of the 3rd quarter or the end, so that means somewhere between June and August. It doesn't really bother me since I already have a system in my truck. But for you??? Are you willing to put off completly building yours?
If you don't want to wait, go with the 4 8's (either series) and which ever amp you want. If you are willing to wait, a pair of the 13TW5-4's.
I think the TW5 series is going to be very good. I'm sure that they will not be able to compete with the output of the W7's or the sound quality of the W6's. But I think they will be equal to the W3's in all aspects, but with more mounting options due to their mounting depth.
The choice is yours. Which way are you going to go?:banghead: :confuzeld :Insane: :shootself :duh:
Have you noticed the number of views on this post?:cool2:
John
A couple of sick kids have been burning up my time. Some kind of stomach bug, nasty.
John
JL is pretty accurate on their release dates, but of course they do not specify the beginning or end of March. My shop has not been able to commit on a delivery date if ordered now, so I assume JL isn't really telling them either.
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual or amp in from of you since I will be referring to the connection sections from left to right.
Power/Ground/Remote – Just as labeled, Power, Ground and Remote Turn-on from head unit (blue/white).
Preamp Output Section – Nothing used here.
Advanced Bass Control Section:
Infrasonic Filter – I would not use, but read manual to determine if you want to use. If you do use, set Infrasonic Filter to between 22 and 30 Hz.
Bass Eq – I would not use. If left off the rest of the controls in the section are not used either.
Amp LP Filter:
Mode/Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Amplifier Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Signal Sensing – Not used since you are running a remote turn-on lead.
Left/Right Ch – Your sub RCA inputs from sub on head unit.
Subwoofer Output – The speaker leads for you subs go.
Output polarity - Set to normal.
I appreciate the concern. My kids don't get sick very often, but when they do they can be a handful, especially at the same time.:
John
The amp is a mono amp, so the signal is the same from either set of outputs. You do not have to use both sets, but it comes in handy for wiring a bunch of subs.
John
CDLBZ - People do pay me to install their systems!
John
I had it all typed out and lost it. Fricking timeout feature on my laptop. E-mail or PM me your e-mail address and I'll put together a document for you since I have all the owners manuals. Plus it was more than a little long for a post. Do you have Word?John
The post is going to be very long. I'll work on the post tomorrow.
John
Here ya go
Correct, you will not need the high power speaker leads from the head unit.
Close. You have 2 amps, one for the subs and one for the rest of the system. The signal from the head unit is a low level (low power > 3V) is amplified and played by the speakers.
You’re just a little confused. You have a sub output for the sub amp, the front and rear outputs go to the amp for the rest of the system. All the speakers are connected to the amps via the speaker outputs, sending the signal down the speaker wires to the speakers.
You are confusing the number of speakers with the number of channels. You actually will have 2 subs, 2 coaxials and 2 component sets which contain a mid-woofer and a tweeter each. So you have 8 speakers. You only have 6 channels of signal. The front, rear and sub, so you need 6 channels worth of RCA’s. RCA’s are sold in pairs of left and right, so you only need 3 pairs of RCA’s. You could get by with 2 sets if you buy a 4 channel set to use on the front and rear since they are going to the same amp.
IVA-W200
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual in from of you since I will be referring to the number connections (Connections section, page 70/71 in my PDF copy).
1, 14 – antenna, you need this and should be in use now since you are using the head unit.
2, 3, 4, 5 and 13 – not needed.
6 and 7 – not needed.
8 – if you have or plan to use a backup camera, yes, otherwise not used.
9 – not needed.
10, 16, 17 and 18 – yes, these are the RCA connections and the RCA cables.
11 – yes. The plug for 23 – 39
12 – no. Fiber connection for other Alpine stuff.
15 – if you plan on using an Alpine nav unit, $$$$$$$.
19, 40 – if you plan on using an iPod, yes, otherwise no.
20, 21, 22 – if you plan on using an Alpine CD/DVD changer, yes, otherwise no.
23 – yes. Turn-on lead for amps. You need to run a wire back to the amps (16 ga).
24 – no.
25 – if you have OnStar or a cell phone mount, yes, otherwise no.
26, 27 – yes. I found out they need to be “faked out” with a PAC-TR7 module. Prevents a bunch of headaches with wiring. If you wire it up by Alpines directions you need to play with a combination of the footbrake and the hand brake to bypass the video safety "feature" (PIA, gotta love the gov regs). The TR-7 is triggered off the w200 remote turn on wire, so everytime the unit powers up the video safety is automaticly bypassed. If not used the radio will work, but you will not be able to access many of the other functions of the radio (ie: iPersonalize).
28, 29, 31 – yes.
32 – 39 – for now yes. When you go to amps, no.
41 – yes
500/1
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual or amp in from of you since I will be referring to the connection sections from left to right.
Power/Ground/Remote – Yes. Remote turn come from head unit (#23 above).
Preamp Output Section – Nothing used here.
Advanced Bass Control:
Infrasonic Filter – I would not use, but read manual to determine if you want to use. If you do use, set Infrasonic Filter to between 22 and 30 Hz.
Bass Eq – I would not use. If left off the rest of the controls in the section are not used either.
Amp LP Filter: Be sure you have sub set to on in the IVA-W200 (part of the system setup starting on page 33 of owners manual)
Mode/Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Amplifier Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Signal Sensing – Not used since you are running a remote turn-on lead (#23 above).
Left/Right Ch – Yes, your sub RCA inputs from sub on head unit.
Subwoofer Output – Yes, where your speaker leads for you subs go.
300/4
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual or amp in from of you since I will be referring to the connection sections from left to right.
Power/Ground/Remote – Yes. Remote turn come from head unit (#23 above).
Rear Filter Controls:
Freq Range – Set to 1x.
Filter Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Filter Mode – Set to HP (high pass)
Rear Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Left/Right Ch – Yes, your rear channel RCA inputs from rear on head unit.
Rear Speaker Outputs – Yes. Left and right rear door speaker wires.
Front Filter Controls:
Freq Range – Set to 1x.
Filter Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Filter Mode – Set to HP (high pass)
Front Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Input Mode – Set to 4ch.
Left/Right Ch – Yes, your front channel RCA inputs from front on head unit.
Front Speaker Outputs – Yes. Left and right front door speaker wires. The speaker end will connect to the input on your crossover of your front component set.
Told you it was going to be long, but that is every connection on the electronics. Next??????
: John
Glad to be of help. You have to start somewhere, just take your time and read the directions a couple of times. I left the manuals at the office. I'll catch this in the morning.
Personally I found the unit setup options more imtimidating than the wiring.
John
Duh, typo. Alpine needs to update the drawing to show the antenna is a wire lead, not a plug. You are correct that the 40GM10 is the antenna adapter and 14 is the backup camera input.
I forgot that you were using the steering wheel controls.
Correct
Cool
Don’t swap the wire. Run a single 16 ga wire from the wire/connector on the back of the head unit back to the amps. You will need to create a pigtail near the amps to split the wire from the head unit into 2 wires to run to each of the amps. This wire is a 12v switched circuit that the amps use to turn-on.
Cool. I do not remember you mentioning this in any of your other posts, but glad you figured it out or got a heads up from someone.
I would cut them and tape them off. I hope you used an adapter harness to plug the head unit into the factory harness.
It plugs into the back of the head unit. I think I was confusing one of the connections on it (#6) with #14. You will need the #8 connection on the #41 harness for the backup camera. Looks like it plugs in beside #13 for your steering wheel controls
The IVA-W200 has a built in bass boost and subwoofer level control features. It’s listed in the “Other Useful Features” section on page 24 of PDF manual. Or you could buy the JL RBC-1 (optional remote boost knob) that plugs into the 500/1. It is part of the Advanced Bass Control section on the 500/1. Read the Advanced Bass Control Section that starts on page 9 of the JL 500/1 manual to see if it makes any sense to you. Let me know if you have any questions on it and I’ll try to answer. I haven’t installed one as part of a system install, so I can’t say if I like it or not. I will say that I’m not a fan of bass boosting devices as they tend to distort the natural sound and balance of the music by exaggerating the bass output. I do use a level control in my personal systems (part of my crossover) since all music is not recorded at the same level. Some producers/mixers boost or cut the lower bass frequencies.
Trying to help a brother out. A bunch of the install stuff I learned was by screwing up. It took a while to find some folks that could and would answer my questions truthfully and be willing to “show me the way” and give hints/tips. I now count those same people as part of a pretty tight knit group of friends.
I would build the sub box first and do some sound deadening at the same time. I do have a diagram of a box that I did for a GMC 3500 CC that I'm planning on expanding on to build my behind the seat box. I could e-mail it to you after updating it for your woofers. It came up to the bottom of the rear glass trim panel and fit between the side trim panels. You do have to remove the rear air ducts from behind the seat. Sorry I don't have any pics of it.
John
Yes, 3 sets of 2 channel RCA's will get the job done. RCA's do not have exposed wires. The RCA connector on the radio or amp is a female type and the cable is a male type (RCA cables plug "into" radio or amp connectors). The male cable has a center pin that is the positive side of the signal and the outer ring or barrel is the negative side of the signal. If you get a chance check out some at a local electronics store or find a good pic on a web site.
After looking at the PAC OS-2BOSE install instructions I have determined that you already have that wire connected. So when you get ready to do you amps you will need to disconnect it from the PAC OS-2BOSE unit. The IVA-W200 is turning on the Bose amp in your current system. When you get ready to change just cut the wire where you made the connection to the PAC OS-2BOSE harness and connect to a pretty good length of 16 ga wire to run back to your amps. If you buy an amp installation kit it should have a remote lead in it. On the other end, close to your amps, strip back the wire and butt connect or solder 2 pieces of wire to it. Each of these wires will run to each amp's turn-on connection. Inside each amp is basically a 12v relay and this 12v signal from the radio turns the amp on. It does not take much amperage, just voltage is really important.
Great. If you only knew how many people don't want to spend the money to buy the harness interface. I refuse to do an install without the correct harness, too much stuff in mordern cars/trucks to screw up now.
The JL knob is for boost only. The IVA-W200 sub level control is 0 to +15. This is workable by setting the gain (Input Sens) lower on the sub amp and boosting it via the sub level control on the head unit. What this will do is that the head unit will send a stronger signal (more voltage) to the amp as you turn up the sub level control. This will increase the volume of the sub from the lower level you will have it set at to a higher level. I hope this makes sense.
We removed the vent tubes. The vents are in the back wall of the truck. We left them uncovered so they still work. I suppose you could cut them down to just beyond were they go behind the side trim panel. I found a pic and added it to my garage. It's the white truck interior. You can see the vents in the back wall and that we removed the vent tubes and the brackets from the back wall. You can also see the RCA cable runs, 1 to the pass side for the sub amp and 2 to the driver's side for the front/rear 4 channel amp. The blue wire run down the center is the turn-on lead for the amps.
I'll try to e-mail it to you. As I said it fits below the window trim and between the side trim pieces. Sorry that I don't have a completed install pic of it so you would have a good idea of how it fit.
John
Yes, the yellow cable carries video signal in an A/V set, while the red and white carry the left and right audio signal.
I said you could use a 2 channel set (500/1) for the sub and a 4 channel set (300/4) for front and rear, instead of 3 of the 2 channel cables.
The instructions for the PAC OS-2BOSE says it MUST be used. I can understand if you can't remember, there are a lot of connections on the back of the IVA-W200, plus the OS-2BOSE and the TR-7.
Yes. It will become the turn-on lead for your amps.
I've never had a failure in any system I've built. I've only changed that wiring scheme if the system will have a large number of amps (more than 5) in it, then I use a relay. That is the way mine is run. One wire back from the head unit, then 3 wires soldered to it with one running to each amp. I used the same 16 ga wire to keep it all uniform. The wires will go into the Remote Turn-On Connector hole, which is right beside the Chassis Ground Connector on each amp.
The IVA-W200 does have a subwoofer level control, but it is not a +/-. It cannot reduce the level below 0 since the unit does 0 to +15. So if you set your system up with the level high (like +10), then you could reduce the level below the level you did the set up at to get less sub. Kind of like turning on the radio with the volume set in the middle of the range, turn it down and it gets quieter. It's confusing, but it will work.
No complaints from the owner of the 3500. It did seem to make the cabin feel tighter when closing the doors. But, I think that is because the vents are no longer directly explosed to the air inside the cabin. The actual vents are hidden behind the side trim when you remove the vent tubes. I will be removing my vent tubes when I get around to building my behind the seat box.
John
From a singal standpoint, no. Just fewer cables to run, though the 4 channel set could be bigger (depending on brand) and more difficult to snake through the dash.
Yes
Solder or butt connector the blue/white wire to the turn-on lead for the amps.
The big red and black wires are the power and ground. The power was run from the front of the truck and the ground from a connector welded to one of the body mounts. Running underneath and coming through the floor near where the amp rack was easier than trying to get 1/0 cable through the firewall.
The blue wire running down the center is the amp turn on lead.
There is a RCA cable coiled in the rear pass area for the sub amp and 2 pair of RCA cables coiled in the rear driver area for the 4 channel amp for the front and rear.
There are some other cable running down the drivers side for the CD changer and XM radio. You can see them coiled up by the RCA cables in the rear on that side.
John
I like the Monster Cable RCA's and speaker wire. The JL and Streetwires stuff is good, along with the Lighting Audio stuff.
Yes. There is normally a connector on the end of the wire. You cut it off to connect to the PAC OS-2BOSE. You should not have a problem connecting a 16 ga wire to the blue/white wire from head unit. I think the blue/white wire is either 16 or 18 guage. I just like to have the larger wire.
You will need to run a power wire from under the hood. You can get a good enough ground from 1 of the seat studs, at least I was able to in my truck. 1/0 was overkill in the 3500. You can get by with 4 ga for the ground and power. Be sure to fuse close to the battery under the hood.
See above for ground, but yes. You will only need 3 pairs of wires, sub, rear and front. The front will run to your component crossover, then wires out to your mids and tweets. Please don't mount your crossover inside the door. It will rattle, bounce around and make noise, but that is not the worst of it. The mositure inside the door will cause the crossover components to corrode and it could short out.
2 - 1 power and 1 ground. You can find them with 4 ga in and out.
John
Looks and sounds like good stuff. I've never used one of their kits, but read the info on their site.
Overkill. But if you can get it cheap enough, go for it. It will not hurt to have too large of a guage power and ground cables. Just a pain to run because of the size and lack of flexability.
It will be VERY tight since the max mounting depth in the box is 6 1/2". The box was designed with my 12W6's in mind, which have slightly less mounting depth (5.625 vs 5.93). The magnet for the 10W3 is smaller (5.25 vs 6.5) which will buy you a bunch of room. Like me you will have to mount the woofers at the bottom edge of the box to get the necessary clearance for the magnet. You will have to use a router to create a depression for the magnet (re-enforce with epoxy, been there, done that, it works). Or add some MDF speaker rings to the front of the box to get more mounting depth, but that would put the speaker into the back of the seat.
I'll look at tweaking the box measurements. Do me a favor and measure from the back wall of your cab to the back of the rear seat just above the seat rail across the back of the seat. I'll measure mine again to see if I can get some more space for you. All you really need is another 1/2" of depth.
Yes. That is the reason I run my RCA's down the middle of the cab and the power down 1 side. Less of a chance for noise to be introduced into the system.
John
That's a good price on the 0 ga kit and not bad prices on RCA's. Sounddomain wants $250 for the kit. I will agree that the JL and Streetwires stuff is overpriced, especially if you do not have any connections in the business. The 0 ga is overkill for the amount of current you will be pulling, but the 0 ga kit will allow you growth room.
my 12W6's are the original 12W6's that you cannot get any more. I would love the have the 12W6V2's but they will not fit (WAY too deep). The W3 series took the place of the orginal W6 line. I'm moving my rear seats foward 1" to help get the depth needed to get the woofer to fit easily.
I did some looking at the 10W3V3 vs the 10W3V2 vs the 10W1V2 and there is virtually no difference in the woofers except the motor assembly (magnet structure). I also plugged them into my bass box software and found the same thing. The W1 will fit the easiest due to it's smaller motor (4.34" deep, 4.45" wide), but will produce the least amount of SPL. The W3V2 (5.75"deep, 5.79" wide) will fit better than the W3V3, but will still require some work to make it fit. The W3V3 is a bear with the most depth and largest magnet footprint (5.93" deep, 5.25" wide). Based on mounting depth the 10W1 is your best bet. Have you listened to them?
Just a thought, have you thought about or heard the 8W3V2 or 8W3V3? Awesome little woofer. You could run 3 of them instead of 2 10's in the same size box. In my old S-10 extra-cab I had 3 8W6's that flat rocked. I could look at changing the box to allow you to keep the vent tubes since you would only need about 1.2 cu ft for the 3 8's.
I talking about using a router to create a relief on the inside of the box for the magnet. Not punching a hole through the back of the box.
I double checked the max box size and what I sent you is it. No more room can be had.
John
The V3's are not listed on the web site, but I talked to my bud at the shop I use. They have the V3's listed in the dealer lit. They are basically a new version of the old 8W6 I had. Not quite enough air space for 4 8's which is why I suggested 3 8's. But 3 8's or 4 8's are more cone area than 2 10's. But, if you are going to move the seat up, you can get enough air space for 4 8's.
Kicker does not make a 1 ga or 2 ga kit. The next step up for them is 4 ga which splits into 2 8 ga for power and ground. Stick with the 0 ga Kicker kit for the price you are getting it for.
You don't have to have the top of the line, but you don't want the bottom either. Just get some nice cables, it doesn't matter which brand. Once you get to a certain point, there really is not that much difference other than appearance.
A 1/2" will do, 1" would be nice. Not quite enough air space to port the box with 1" more depth, but the box is up to 2.26 cu ft. Moving the seat up could buy you leaving the vent tubes in place or mostly in place. 8w7's? How much do you want to move the seat? Because you would need at least 2 more inches of depth, cause them is some deep suckers.
As far as matching to "optimum power" I will be well beyond the optimum power spec'ed for my woofers. Having more power than needed in not a bad thing. My woofers are rated for 300 watts max and I have 3 of them, so that's 900 watts max power. My new sub amp is power tested to put out 1200 watts of clean power. I don't plan on turning the knob wide open and leaving it there. Don't get too caught up in power ratings. Way back when I ran 2 Kicker subs rated for 500 watts each on an amp putting out 1700 watts. When I was running the 3 8W6's I had more amp power than they were rated for. Not enough power kills woofers quicker than too much power. Distortion kills, not power.
Amp wise, I haven't been able to find out anything. A couple of new speakers, such as the 8W3V3 sub. They are suppose to come out with a killer mid/tweet component set, but very $$$$$$.
John
I doubled checked my numbers. I was incorrect when I said the box would not work with 4 8’s. I think I was looking at the 10W1 enclosure requirements or the 8W3V2 ported requirements. I’ve been looking at too many numbers. So yes, the original box will work with 4 8W3V3’s or 4 8W3V2’s sealed.
The V3 handles a little more power and can go in a smaller box. Until I am able to get more of the specs I can’t plug it into my Bass Box software to plot the difference. The V2 provides more flexibility with the impedance and voice coil configuration.
Press release info
8W3v3
Nominal Diameter: 8.0 in. (200 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 150 W
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax): 0.38 in. (9.7 mm)
Nominal Impedance: Single 4 ohm or Single 8 ohm
Mounting Depth: 4.63 in. (118 mm)
Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.20-0.40 cu.ft. (5.7-11.3 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 0.30-0.50 cu.ft. (8.5-14.2 liters)
Available: March, 2007
The shop I use says they can order them now, so I assume the shop you are buying from can also.
Either setup would sound good. The 4 8’s would be punchier, sound tighter (smaller woofer) and be louder (more cone area). The 2 10’s will play a little lower, but not by much.
Sounds like the amp is going into protection. My guess would be under voltage/current from not enough battery/alternator power.
Flexibility, shielding, covering, basically materials used during construction and how the ends are terminated drive the price. A nice set of 2 channel cables, 20 ft long will retail for $30 or more.
: More subs and/or bigger subs to handle the power. The 500/1 is rated for 500 watts at .05% distortion, which means it will make probably close to 750 watts max. The 1000/1 will probably make close to 1300 watts. The 500/1 will run anything you want to put in your truck. Unless you plan on taking out the back seat and doing a wall of woofers.
: Moving the seat up 1” gives you 2.264 cu ft, which is enough air space for 3 10W3V3’s. The back will still need a small 1/4" - 3/8" deep recess cut into it along the top edge of the magnet for clearance. 3 10W3V3's would be louder, but the box I sent you with 4 8's would be less work and sound just as nice.
Personally I can’t wait until the new TW5 woofer comes out. It’s a thin mount sub like the thin mount Poineer. The info on them sounds good, so I may wait until they come out and do 3 of the 13TW5's.
Another new product that you will be interested in is the CL-RLC Remote Level Control / Line Driver. That would take care of you wanting a level control for you subs.
John
Choices, choices, choices. Any of the choices will work and sound good with the only real differences being SPL output and low frequency output (lower than 35hz). But I think that they will all be within 3db of each other in SPL. And pretty close in low frequency output with the upper hand going to the larger drivers.
JL is pretty good at releasing their stuff on time. I hope you paid attention to the release date on the TW5 series. They did not specify whether it would be the beginning of the 3rd quarter or the end, so that means somewhere between June and August. It doesn't really bother me since I already have a system in my truck. But for you??? Are you willing to put off completly building yours?
If you don't want to wait, go with the 4 8's (either series) and which ever amp you want. If you are willing to wait, a pair of the 13TW5-4's.
I think the TW5 series is going to be very good. I'm sure that they will not be able to compete with the output of the W7's or the sound quality of the W6's. But I think they will be equal to the W3's in all aspects, but with more mounting options due to their mounting depth.
The choice is yours. Which way are you going to go?:banghead: :confuzeld :Insane: :shootself :duh:
Have you noticed the number of views on this post?:cool2:
John
A couple of sick kids have been burning up my time. Some kind of stomach bug, nasty.
Correct
1" forward for both since it is the same woofer. With 2 10W3 woofers you could save most of the vent tubes. 3 10W3 woofers, you take it all.
4 8W3's is less work and would be nice with the rest of your set-up. Not overpowering, but you will definitely know you have subs. If I was going to move the seat, go for 3 10W3's with either amp and it will pound. It will completely over-run the rest of your set-up, so you will need that level control.
John
JL is pretty accurate on their release dates, but of course they do not specify the beginning or end of March. My shop has not been able to commit on a delivery date if ordered now, so I assume JL isn't really telling them either.
1000/1
This will be easier if you have the owner’s manual or amp in from of you since I will be referring to the connection sections from left to right.
Power/Ground/Remote – Just as labeled, Power, Ground and Remote Turn-on from head unit (blue/white).
Preamp Output Section – Nothing used here.
Advanced Bass Control Section:
Infrasonic Filter – I would not use, but read manual to determine if you want to use. If you do use, set Infrasonic Filter to between 22 and 30 Hz.
Bass Eq – I would not use. If left off the rest of the controls in the section are not used either.
Amp LP Filter:
Mode/Slope – Set to 12db.
Filter Freq – Set to 80 Hz. You may adjust this setting later to get the best sound.
Amplifier Input Section:
Input Voltage – Set to low.
Input Sens – This is the gain control. Leave set in the middle. You will adjust to get the best sound.
Signal Sensing – Not used since you are running a remote turn-on lead.
Left/Right Ch – Your sub RCA inputs from sub on head unit.
Subwoofer Output – The speaker leads for you subs go.
Output polarity - Set to normal.
You will only need 2 leads (+ and -) from your subs. How the subs are connected to each other will be determined on which subs you get. I would run 3 10W3V3-8's. Each of these will be wired + to + and - to -, creating a chain of paralell wired woofers that will be a 2.6 ohm load for the amp. You would then connect the 2 wires you run out of the box from the last woofer to the Subwoofer Output + to + and - to -.
I assume you are talking about the RCA jacks in the Pre-Amp Output Section. See above, they are not used.
Mail sent.
I appreciate the concern. My kids don't get sick very often, but when they do they can be a handful, especially at the same time.
: John
10W3V3-2, 10W3V3-4 and 10W3V3-8. The last number is the resistance value of the sub, 2 ohm, 4 ohm and 8 ohm.
Nailed it!
The amp is a mono amp, so the signal is the same from either set of outputs. You do not have to use both sets, but it comes in handy for wiring a bunch of subs.Actually 0.706 per woofer after sub displacement, which is more than the recomended 0.625. I would probably put close to 5 lbs of fiberfill in the box to help dampen it. It will also help the woofers low bass extention.
As I said in the e-mail. Measure your truck to get the exact dimensions. I done 3 boxes for the 04-06 trucks and found as much as a 1/4" difference in the dimensions. It doesn't sound like much, but can make fitment a PITA if not double checked. Such a small adjustment to the box will not make difference in the sound.
With plenty of good quality glue, nice straight square cuts to 3/4" MDF and plenty of 1.5" - 2" staples I say no. I have not braced any of the boxes I've built for a setup like this. If you do 5/8" MDF put a couple of 2" wide braces between the front and back walls between the woofers.
John
Yes, you need the 8 ohm. 3 different ohm drivers for different woofer configurations, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 woofers(crazy enough?).
Experiment a little. Try about 3 lbs, then work your way up till you get the sound you like. It's not an exact science.
Elmers wood glue or Builders Speciality, nothing really special about either one. Just use plenty. You should be able to get MDF at your local lumber yard. I get mine from Home Depot or Lowes.
STAPLES, not nails. They are too big in diameter and will split/crack the MDF. If you must use nails, use finishing nails.
Nice! You're getting it. Looks correct.
Never heard of them. I'll have to check them out later
Stinger has good stuff, but stay away from their bottom end stuff. As I said the Kicker stuff is good.
When you get to cranking the volume knob, the rest of the system will not be able to keep up. Quite typical of multi-woofer systems. Right now the rest of my system can keep up with my one 12" sub. But, when I get 3 subs in, no way.
CDLBZ - People do pay me to install their systems!
John
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