Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any popular car/mobile audio forums? Need to do some reading, researching, etc. to help/guide me to installing my system. I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Could you please elaborate on this more please. Any way you could do a drawing of this or a small diagram. What I don't get is how am I suppose to connect that 16 ga. wire to the back of the head unit when the harness is plugged in. The harness has that blue/white wire in the harness. Also, if and when I get that situated, how exactly do I split it off to go to both amps (pigtail as you put it)?Don’t swap the wire. Run a single 16 ga wire from the wire/connector on the back of the head unit back to the amps. You will need to create a pigtail near the amps to split the wire from the head unit into 2 wires to run to each of the amps. This wire is a 12v switched circuit that the amps use to turn-on.
I used the PAC OS2-Bose. The factor harness plugged into the OS2-Bose then the other end was connected to the harness coming off the radio.I would cut them and tape them off. I hope you used an adapter harness to plug the head unit into the factory harness.
So...since I am using amps, I don't need to worry about all the colored wires you mentioned, I'll be making my connections through the amps which will be linked by RCAs?
Close. You have 2 amps, one for the subs and one for the rest of the system. The signal from the head unit is a low level (low power > 3V) is amplified and played by the speakers.Then the signal that’s amplified from the amps is carried over to the subs and you have an amplified sound? Is that correct?
You’re just a little confused. You have a sub output for the sub amp, the front and rear outputs go to the amp for the rest of the system. All the speakers are connected to the amps via the speaker outputs, sending the signal down the speaker wires to the speakers.If there is a front and rear sub, but both my subs will be in the rear, how is that going to work or does it matter? How are the amps connected to the subs? What will be used there?
You are confusing the number of speakers with the number of channels. You actually will have 2 subs, 2 coaxials and 2 component sets which contain a mid-woofer and a tweeter each. So you have 8 speakers. You only have 6 channels of signal. The front, rear and sub, so you need 6 channels worth of RCA’s. RCA’s are sold in pairs of left and right, so you only need 3 pairs of RCA’s. You could get by with 2 sets if you buy a 4 channel set to use on the front and rear since they are going to the same amp.Summary: The radio is connected to the amps by RCAs. There are 6 speakers all together, 2 components (front), 2 coaxles (rear), and 2 subs (rear). So that means I will need 6 RCAs and RCAs come with a black and a red right? If so, there are only 6 spots on the back of the radio, not 12.
IVA-W200tell me what is and isn't going to be used and how/where it’s going to be used.
Duh, typo. Alpine needs to update the drawing to show the antenna is a wire lead, not a plug. You are correct that the 40GM10 is the antenna adapter and 14 is the backup camera input.14 shouldn't be in use because I don't have a back up camera which I hope to have one day. However, there is a separate plug for the antenna that comes off the radio, that is plugged into the 40GM10, then into the factory antenna. This should be completely different than the input terminal for the back up camera.
I forgot that you were using the steering wheel controls.13 is used. I have the PAC SWI-ALP to interface the steering wheel controls.
Correct10 should be the actual RCAs and 16, 17, and 18 are the outputs for the subwoofer, front speakers, and rear speakers.
Cool11 is a harness that came with the head unit, that is already taken care of and in use. Whew, lots of wires there.
Don’t swap the wire. Run a single 16 ga wire from the wire/connector on the back of the head unit back to the amps. You will need to create a pigtail near the amps to split the wire from the head unit into 2 wires to run to each of the amps. This wire is a 12v switched circuit that the amps use to turn-on.23 is in the harness that came with the head unit, but its only 1 wire. How am I suppose to run 1 wire to 2 amps? You state that I need to run 16 ga. wire back to the amps. How am I suppose to change the (1) blue/white wire that's already there to 16 ga.?
Cool. I do not remember you mentioning this in any of your other posts, but glad you figured it out or got a heads up from someone.26 and 27 is in use. I have them wired into the PAC TR-7 for video bypass. I though you knew about my Alpine IVA-W200 and all the adapters/harnesses I used. This would of saved you some time on some of these connections.
I would cut them and tape them off. I hope you used an adapter harness to plug the head unit into the factory harness.32-39 so when I swap to the new equipment using amps, I'll use RCAs to connect to the amps and that basically bypasses the connections to the speakers. The wires that are already connected to the factory harness for the speakers, do they stay in place or will they need to be cut?
41 is a harness that came with the head unit as well. What exactly is it and where does it go?
The IVA-W200 has a built in bass boost and subwoofer level control features. It’s listed in the “Other Useful Features” section on page 24 of PDF manual. Or you could buy the JL RBC-1 (optional remote boost knob) that plugs into the 500/1. It is part of the Advanced Bass Control section on the 500/1. Read the Advanced Bass Control Section that starts on page 9 of the JL 500/1 manual to see if it makes any sense to you. Let me know if you have any questions on it and I’ll try to answer. I haven’t installed one as part of a system install, so I can’t say if I like it or not. I will say that I’m not a fan of bass boosting devices as they tend to distort the natural sound and balance of the music by exaggerating the bass output. I do use a level control in my personal systems (part of my crossover) since all music is not recorded at the same level. Some producers/mixers boost or cut the lower bass frequencies.By the way, if I wanted to use an external/separate bass knob, where would that go in all these connections? Also, any particular one you recommend?
Trying to help a brother out. A bunch of the install stuff I learned was by screwing up. It took a while to find some folks that could and would answer my questions truthfully and be willing to “show me the way” and give hints/tips. I now count those same people as part of a pretty tight knit group of friends.I cannot thank you enough. You're a BIG help and you just made things so much easier. Its really starting to come together. I really appreciate you taking the time to do all of this.
Yes, 3 sets of 2 channel RCA's will get the job done. RCA's do not have exposed wires. The RCA connector on the radio or amp is a female type and the cable is a male type (RCA cables plug "into" radio or amp connectors). The male cable has a center pin that is the positive side of the signal and the outer ring or barrel is the negative side of the signal. If you get a chance check out some at a local electronics store or find a good pic on a web site.So then I need 3 sets of RCAs correct? 1 for the subs, 1 for the front speakers, and 1 for the rear speakers? Each RCA comes with a red and black wire that has connectors at both ends.
After looking at the PAC OS-2BOSE install instructions I have determined that you already have that wire connected. So when you get ready to do you amps you will need to disconnect it from the PAC OS-2BOSE unit. The IVA-W200 is turning on the Bose amp in your current system. When you get ready to change just cut the wire where you made the connection to the PAC OS-2BOSE harness and connect to a pretty good length of 16 ga wire to run back to your amps. If you buy an amp installation kit it should have a remote lead in it. On the other end, close to your amps, strip back the wire and butt connect or solder 2 pieces of wire to it. Each of these wires will run to each amp's turn-on connection. Inside each amp is basically a 12v relay and this 12v signal from the radio turns the amp on. It does not take much amperage, just voltage is really important.Could you please elaborate on this more please. Any way you could do a drawing of this or a small diagram. What I don't get is how am I suppose to connect that 16 ga. wire to the back of the head unit when the harness is plugged in. The harness has that blue/white wire in the harness. Also, if and when I get that situated, how exactly do I split it off to go to both amps (pigtail as you put it)?
Great. If you only knew how many people don't want to spend the money to buy the harness interface. I refuse to do an install without the correct harness, too much stuff in mordern cars/trucks to screw up now.I used the PAC OS2-Bose. The factor harness plugged into the OS2-Bose then the other end was connected to the harness coming off the radio.
The JL knob is for boost only. The IVA-W200 sub level control is 0 to +15. This is workable by setting the gain (Input Sens) lower on the sub amp and boosting it via the sub level control on the head unit. What this will do is that the head unit will send a stronger signal (more voltage) to the amp as you turn up the sub level control. This will increase the volume of the sub from the lower level you will have it set at to a higher level. I hope this makes sense.The only reason why I wanted a bass knob is to turn the bass DOWN if I ever just didn't feel like a lot of bass or needed to turn it down for whatever reason. I really wasn't wanting this for boost purposes, but for control/level purposes. So is a boost bass knob and bass control knob 2 different things?
We removed the vent tubes. The vents are in the back wall of the truck. We left them uncovered so they still work. I suppose you could cut them down to just beyond were they go behind the side trim panel. I found a pic and added it to my garage. It's the white truck interior. You can see the vents in the back wall and that we removed the vent tubes and the brackets from the back wall. You can also see the RCA cable runs, 1 to the pass side for the sub amp and 2 to the driver's side for the front/rear 4 channel amp. The blue wire run down the center is the turn-on lead for the amps.On that box that you built for that crew cab 3500, did you have to completely remove the air vents or just cut/modify them? I thought we needed those vents so that when you close the doors, it releases the pressure built up inside the cab.
I'll try to e-mail it to you. As I said it fits below the window trim and between the side trim pieces. Sorry that I don't have a completed install pic of it so you would have a good idea of how it fit.If you're willing to send me the diagram of the box that you built, that would be great because I wanted to build it just the way you described it
Yes, the yellow cable carries video signal in an A/V set, while the red and white carry the left and right audio signal.Its pretty much like the audio video cables you use for TVs and whatnot, except it doesn't have the yellow wire. Am I correct?
I said you could use a 2 channel set (500/1) for the sub and a 4 channel set (300/4) for front and rear, instead of 3 of the 2 channel cables.You say (3) 2 channel RCAs will be just right, but I remember you saying something about (2) 4 channel RCAs will work as well. Wouldn't that be 8 connections?
The instructions for the PAC OS-2BOSE says it MUST be used. I can understand if you can't remember, there are a lot of connections on the back of the IVA-W200, plus the OS-2BOSE and the TR-7.I don't remember if I used the blue/white (23) wire because there were so many of them.
Yes. It will become the turn-on lead for your amps.So you're saying when I go to install the new equipment, I'm going to cut that wire from the PAC OS2-Bose?
I've never had a failure in any system I've built. I've only changed that wiring scheme if the system will have a large number of amps (more than 5) in it, then I use a relay. That is the way mine is run. One wire back from the head unit, then 3 wires soldered to it with one running to each amp. I used the same 16 ga wire to keep it all uniform. The wires will go into the Remote Turn-On Connector hole, which is right beside the Chassis Ground Connector on each amp.I get the part where you're saying to run a 16 ga. wire to the amps, strip the wire back, then solder 2 pieces of wires to go to each amp, but is that really safe and the best way to do it? I'm not doubting you, just seems kinda like I'm riggin' it, but again, you know I'm no expert. So once I do that, where are those wire going to go in the amps? By the way, when I solder those 2 wires to the 16 ga. wire, do I use 16 ga. there as well for both wires?
The IVA-W200 does have a subwoofer level control, but it is not a +/-. It cannot reduce the level below 0 since the unit does 0 to +15. So if you set your system up with the level high (like +10), then you could reduce the level below the level you did the set up at to get less sub. Kind of like turning on the radio with the volume set in the middle of the range, turn it down and it gets quieter. It's confusing, but it will work.I really didn't get what you were trying to say about the bass knob info either. Again, the only reason why I was wanting one is so that I could have quick access for level control, not for boost purposes. So you're saying that the head unit that I have DOES or DOES not have this feature?
No complaints from the owner of the 3500. It did seem to make the cabin feel tighter when closing the doors. But, I think that is because the vents are no longer directly explosed to the air inside the cabin. The actual vents are hidden behind the side trim when you remove the vent tubes. I will be removing my vent tubes when I get around to building my behind the seat box.If I removed the vents, will it have any negative affect? I mean, I'm sure they're there for a reason. I want to make sure that everything will be ok, before I remove or modify them.
From a singal standpoint, no. Just fewer cables to run, though the 4 channel set could be bigger (depending on brand) and more difficult to snake through the dash.Any difference between (3) 2 channel RCAs and (1) 2 channel and (1) 4 channel?
YesThose wires will go in the smaller hole on the left side of the back of the amp titled Remote?
Solder or butt connector the blue/white wire to the turn-on lead for the amps.I got the part on the amp end, but HOW exactly do you want me to do it on the radio side? It'll be the blue/white wire coming off the head unit's harness correct?
The big red and black wires are the power and ground. The power was run from the front of the truck and the ground from a connector welded to one of the body mounts. Running underneath and coming through the floor near where the amp rack was easier than trying to get 1/0 cable through the firewall.On the pic you added to your garage, can you explain what is what in the picture and where it will be going? Why is there a big black and red cable/wire coming from the bottom of the truck towards the back? What about the blue wire coming from the front of the truck that's coiled up towards the back of the truck? Thanks.
I like the Monster Cable RCA's and speaker wire. The JL and Streetwires stuff is good, along with the Lighting Audio stuff.What do you recommend? Are JL Audio and Streetwires a waste of money/overpriced?
Yes. There is normally a connector on the end of the wire. You cut it off to connect to the PAC OS-2BOSE. You should not have a problem connecting a 16 ga wire to the blue/white wire from head unit. I think the blue/white wire is either 16 or 18 guage. I just like to have the larger wire.So the blue/white wire coming off the head unit's harnless I'll solder the 16 ga. wire to it? I though you said something about running the 16 ga. wire all the way to the back of the radio's connector. Will there be any problem going from the blue/white wire to 16 ga. wire? I don't know off hand what size (gauge) wire the blue/white wire is, that's why I ask.
You will need to run a power wire from under the hood. You can get a good enough ground from 1 of the seat studs, at least I was able to in my truck. 1/0 was overkill in the 3500. You can get by with 4 ga for the ground and power. Be sure to fuse close to the battery under the hood.Do I need to run the black and red wire to the back of the truck? If so, do I have to do it like you did in the photo and do I have to run that big of wire? Also, you stated that it was 1/0, where is that going to fit because neither does the 300/4 or the 500/1 have a hole that big.
See above for ground, but yes. You will only need 3 pairs of wires, sub, rear and front. The front will run to your component crossover, then wires out to your mids and tweets. Please don't mount your crossover inside the door. It will rattle, bounce around and make noise, but that is not the worst of it. The mositure inside the door will cause the crossover components to corrode and it could short out.So basically it'll be similar to what you have layed out that I'll need to do. Power, ground, remote, and RCAs will all need to be ran from the front of the truck. Then I'll need wire coming off the amps to all the speakers correct? That's going to be a lot of wire since there will 8 speakers and all 8 will need 2 wires each right?
2 - 1 power and 1 ground. You can find them with 4 ga in and out.How many distribution blocks will I need?
Looks and sounds like good stuff. I've never used one of their kits, but read the info on their site.What are your thoughts on Kicker amp kits and RCAs?
Overkill. But if you can get it cheap enough, go for it. It will not hurt to have too large of a guage power and ground cables. Just a pain to run because of the size and lack of flexability.Would 0 ga. be overkill or is that sufficient for my setup
It will be VERY tight since the max mounting depth in the box is 6 1/2". The box was designed with my 12W6's in mind, which have slightly less mounting depth (5.625 vs 5.93). The magnet for the 10W3 is smaller (5.25 vs 6.5) which will buy you a bunch of room. Like me you will have to mount the woofers at the bottom edge of the box to get the necessary clearance for the magnet. You will have to use a router to create a depression for the magnet (re-enforce with epoxy, been there, done that, it works). Or add some MDF speaker rings to the front of the box to get more mounting depth, but that would put the speaker into the back of the seat.With the drawing that you emailed me, will those fit 10W3V3s? Does the box have sufficient space to fit them? I know its tight.
Yes. That is the reason I run my RCA's down the middle of the cab and the power down 1 side. Less of a chance for noise to be introduced into the system.Also, I talked to the guy I'm buying the equipment from and that's where I got the info above from. He said that I should run the power wire the opposite side of the RCAs or as far apart as possible. Is this true?
That's a good price on the 0 ga kit and not bad prices on RCA's. Sounddomain wants $250 for the kit. I will agree that the JL and Streetwires stuff is overpriced, especially if you do not have any connections in the business. The 0 ga is overkill for the amount of current you will be pulling, but the 0 ga kit will allow you growth room.The guy I'm buying the equipment from can get me a 0 gauge kit for $125. Not sure how much they retail for. He also quote me $40 for a (1) 4 channel RCAs and $20 for (1) 2 channel RCAs. He said that he would recommend the Kicker 0 gauge because its extremely flexable, more so than any others out there. He stated that JL Audio and Streetwires is good stuff, but way overpriced. What do you feel is sufficient/optimum?
my 12W6's are the original 12W6's that you cannot get any more. I would love the have the 12W6V2's but they will not fit (WAY too deep). The W3 series took the place of the orginal W6 line. I'm moving my rear seats foward 1" to help get the depth needed to get the woofer to fit easily.Since you designed/built that box for 12W6s, do you think I should consider using them as opposed to the new 10W3V3s? Would there be much of a difference in sound?
I talking about using a router to create a relief on the inside of the box for the magnet. Not punching a hole through the back of the box.Wouldn't making a depression on the box for more room for the back of the subwoofer cause conflict? I mean how is that even possible as it sits up against the back wall? I may not even be thinking what you're talking about.
The V3's are not listed on the web site, but I talked to my bud at the shop I use. They have the V3's listed in the dealer lit. They are basically a new version of the old 8W6 I had. Not quite enough air space for 4 8's which is why I suggested 3 8's. But 3 8's or 4 8's are more cone area than 2 10's. But, if you are going to move the seat up, you can get enough air space for 4 8's.If I ran 8W3s, they only come in the V2 version, not the V3. Optimum power for those subs is 125w, so if I used the JL Audio 500/1, then I would want to run 4 of them. How do you think (4) 8W3V2s would sound compared to (2) 10W3V3s?
Kicker does not make a 1 ga or 2 ga kit. The next step up for them is 4 ga which splits into 2 8 ga for power and ground. Stick with the 0 ga Kicker kit for the price you are getting it for.If the 0 ga. is overkill, then there's no reason for me to run it as I don't plan to upgrade. What the next size up, 2 ga.?
You don't have to have the top of the line, but you don't want the bottom either. Just get some nice cables, it doesn't matter which brand. Once you get to a certain point, there really is not that much difference other than appearance.I hate to waste money on RCAs. I've heard so many different opinions/suggestions as to what brand to use. Is there really a big difference? Let's say I could get a hook up on the JL Audio RCAs and I can, just haven't priced them out yet. How would they compare to the Monster RCAs you suggested or even the Kicker?
A 1/2" will do, 1" would be nice. Not quite enough air space to port the box with 1" more depth, but the box is up to 2.26 cu ft. Moving the seat up could buy you leaving the vent tubes in place or mostly in place. 8w7's? How much do you want to move the seat? Because you would need at least 2 more inches of depth, cause them is some deep suckers.How much would I have to move my seat forward to run the 10W3V3s? Then to throw this way out of whack, what about (2) 8W7s? I'm trying to match up subs that will be optimum for the 500/1 amp as I can't afford to step up to the 1000/1 which is next in line. Its too bad that they don't have one in between.
Amp wise, I haven't been able to find out anything. A couple of new speakers, such as the 8W3V3 sub. They are suppose to come out with a killer mid/tweet component set, but very $$$$$$.Do you know if JL Audio is coming out with anything new soon?
I doubled checked my numbers. I was incorrect when I said the box would not work with 4 8’s. I think I was looking at the 10W1 enclosure requirements or the 8W3V2 ported requirements. I’ve been looking at too many numbers. So yes, the original box will work with 4 8W3V3’s or 4 8W3V2’s sealed.So the box that you sent me in an email wouldn't have enough air space for (4) 8W3s? What's the difference between the V2s and V3s in the 8s? You're sure that they have a 8W3V3? With optimum amount of air space, what would sound better and hit harder, (4) 8W3s or (2) 10W3s?
Sounds like the amp is going into protection. My guess would be under voltage/current from not enough battery/alternator power.I talked to the guy I'm buying the equipment from again today and he said that he didn't feel that the 0 ga. was overkill because JL Audio amps are funny sometimes if you don't have enough wire (thickness) and it'll keep shutting off.
Flexibility, shielding, covering, basically materials used during construction and how the ends are terminated drive the price. A nice set of 2 channel cables, 20 ft long will retail for $30 or more.How do I know what's bottom of the line and top of the line? I know you say brand really doesn't matter, but what sets apart the good ones from the ok ones? Is it based solely on price? There has to be something different about them which would cause them to be more expensive.
:Ok, scratch the 8W7s. I just threw that out there. Didn't realize they were that much deeper.
More subs and/or bigger subs to handle the power. The 500/1 is rated for 500 watts at .05% distortion, which means it will make probably close to 750 watts max. The 1000/1 will probably make close to 1300 watts. The 500/1 will run anything you want to put in your truck. Unless you plan on taking out the back seat and doing a wall of woofers. :I definitely don't want to be underpowered and if you're saying it won't hurt to be overpowered a little, then so be it. The 500/1 really kind of limits me to what I run. Again, the next step up would be the 1000/1 and if I did that amp, then I would need to do more or bigger speakers.
Moving the seat up 1” gives you 2.264 cu ft, which is enough air space for 3 10W3V3’s. The back will still need a small 1/4" - 3/8" deep recess cut into it along the top edge of the magnet for clearance. 3 10W3V3's would be louder, but the box I sent you with 4 8's would be less work and sound just as nice.What setup would work well with the 1000/1 that would be a little over powered? How about (3) 10W3V3s? That would be 900 watts total. If I moved the seat up 1/2"-1", would I have enough air space to run (3) 10W3V3s? As a matter of fact, that sounds like a really good idea...and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that you're going to reply that if I move my seat up 1/2"-1", that I'll have enough airspace for (3) 10W3V3s!
CorrectThe 2nd and 3rd choice would require me to move my seat up correct?
1" forward for both since it is the same woofer. With 2 10W3 woofers you could save most of the vent tubes. 3 10W3 woofers, you take it all.What would be the minimum on the 2nd setup and then on the 3rd?
4 8W3's is less work and would be nice with the rest of your set-up. Not overpowering, but you will definitely know you have subs. If I was going to move the seat, go for 3 10W3's with either amp and it will pound. It will completely over-run the rest of your set-up, so you will need that level control.If this was your truck/choice, what would you do if you wanted to do this next week?
1000/1Below is a link to a diagram which displays the back of the 1000/1.
You will only need 2 leads (+ and -) from your subs. How the subs are connected to each other will be determined on which subs you get. I would run 3 10W3V3-8's. Each of these will be wired + to + and - to -, creating a chain of paralell wired woofers that will be a 2.6 ohm load for the amp. You would then connect the 2 wires you run out of the box from the last woofer to the Subwoofer Output + to + and - to -.There are only 2 provisions for subs, how will I connect 3 of them?
I assume you are talking about the RCA jacks in the Pre-Amp Output Section. See above, they are not used.Also, I will only need 1 set of 2 channel RCAs for the mono amp, where will it go? What are the other 2 jacks for?
Mail sent.modify the drawing you sent me to accommodate (3) 10W3V3s with proper measurements, air space, seat moved forward 1", etc.
10W3V3-2, 10W3V3-4 and 10W3V3-8. The last number is the resistance value of the sub, 2 ohm, 4 ohm and 8 ohm.Is there more than one 10W3V3?
Nailed it! The amp is a mono amp, so the signal is the same from either set of outputs. You do not have to use both sets, but it comes in handy for wiring a bunch of subs.Below I have attached a pic that I made in Paint. Is this what you're talking about or am I way off about wiring up 3 subs, but the amp only has 2 subwoofer outputs.
Actually 0.706 per woofer after sub displacement, which is more than the recomended 0.625. I would probably put close to 5 lbs of fiberfill in the box to help dampen it. It will also help the woofers low bass extention.Also, the box diagram you sent me, how much airspace will each sub have? By looking at the numbers, I'm going to guess .75 cu. ft. before sub displacement.
As I said in the e-mail. Measure your truck to get the exact dimensions. I done 3 boxes for the 04-06 trucks and found as much as a 1/4" difference in the dimensions. It doesn't sound like much, but can make fitment a PITA if not double checked. Such a small adjustment to the box will not make difference in the sound.Also, if I build it exactly to your diagram, this will fit in my truck with me moving my seat up 1" and having all the right demensions?
With plenty of good quality glue, nice straight square cuts to 3/4" MDF and plenty of 1.5" - 2" staples I say no. I have not braced any of the boxes I've built for a setup like this. If you do 5/8" MDF put a couple of 2" wide braces between the front and back walls between the woofers.With (3) 10W3V3s and the 1000/1, will I then need bracing inside?
Yes, you need the 8 ohm. 3 different ohm drivers for different woofer configurations, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 woofers(crazy enough?).So between the 3, I need the -8? What's the difference and why is there 3?
Experiment a little. Try about 3 lbs, then work your way up till you get the sound you like. It's not an exact science.Wow, close to 5 lbs. of polyfill?
Elmers wood glue or Builders Speciality, nothing really special about either one. Just use plenty. You should be able to get MDF at your local lumber yard. I get mine from Home Depot or Lowes.Any particular glue you recommend? Do lumber yards have MDF or is it consider a specialty wood and I'll have to get it elsewhere?
STAPLES, not nails. They are too big in diameter and will split/crack the MDF. If you must use nails, use finishing nails.When you specify nails 1.5"-2", you do mean air gun nails correct?
Nice! You're getting it. Looks correct.I spent most of my day making this diagram of the entire setup. Whewww! I'm exhaust. I really did spend A LOT of time on it. Looks pretty good. Does everything look right so far?
Never heard of them. I'll have to check them out laterwhat do you think of KnuKonceptz products for wires and RCAs?
Stinger has good stuff, but stay away from their bottom end stuff. As I said the Kicker stuff is good.What about Stinger? For some reason I keep leaning towards the Kicker 1/0 kit.
When you get to cranking the volume knob, the rest of the system will not be able to keep up. Quite typical of multi-woofer systems. Right now the rest of my system can keep up with my one 12" sub. But, when I get 3 subs in, no way.Lastly, do you think with (3) 10W3V3s and a 1000/1 that my other setup (components & coaxles) are not enough?