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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I know there are a few of good replacements that work out there.
I need to replace my pmd and get it moved out of the engine bay.
I am pretty mechanically inclined and I am looking for some ideas.
I am low on funds:(. and need to get this done. I did do searching on this from time to time. I did see some pics but not sure what to do:( .

Any one have any good cheap ideas that might help me out.
If I am correct I need.
1. pmd
2. resistors
3. ext wire
4. mounting plate
5. dielectric grease
6. silicon (make it water proof)

Any ideas
thanks again joe
 

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You going to extend the factory harness?

You can extract the resistor from the existing PMD.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
anyone else have any imput?
 

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Sounds like you have it cased....

Extend your wires using solder and heatshrink/liquid electrical tape...

Make sure your heatsink is flat and you use a small amount of heatsink compound...

Run a bead of RTV/silicone around the base of the heatsink to waterproof your piece....

Mount PMD outside of engine bay...
 

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If you're low on funds, pull the PMD offa the Inj Pump, then mount the FSD on a heatsink after loosening the four nuts, then retightening them to 15"lbs, or finger-tite with a nut-driver - that's INCH lbs, so no need for your 24" breaker bar.

Cut your plug off about 2" back, noting the two black wires on pin F - that is the FS ground wire terminated to the screw on top of the IP.

Crimp both those 2 black wires together at the harness end, run one wire from there to the plug

D is +12v power - D and F should both be at least 18 gage
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what about this heat sink?

I was looking at heat sinks and I think this one looks to be the most beneficial. what do you think?
I will probably extend my wire and use this
I wonder how this heat sink will work




[URL="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/3418285728.jpg"]
[URL="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/3418285728.jpg"]

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[URL="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/3418285772.jpg"]
[URL="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/3418285772.jpg"]
[URL="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/3418285772.jpg"]
[URL="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/3418285772.jpg"]

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[/URL]
 

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Looks a little small, unless with an electric fan for periods of no forward vehicle movement with no air over.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
oh boy

Well this might be a little more challanging than I though if your tellin me that is to small. oh boy

I guess I will keep looking. Maybe I could get lucky and find someone that would sell me the h**** setup at a discount:) Oh yea I forgot these things are gold.
 

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You can make it bigger by adding another hunk of aluminum as long as the pieces and the FSD have good thermal coupling.
 

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i have a polarflow cooler with the newest pmd mounted that has no more than 1k on it that ill sell for 75 bucks + shipping...pm me or anybody else thats wants it
 

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'Bout that size, maybe little larger, but with deeper fins for more exposure
 

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I have two of these for sale:



Lets say $10 for each, add some for shipping...

6" long, 4.5" wide, 1.75" tall
 

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I went to a scrap yard, and got a piece of 1/8 aluminum, and a piece of 3/8 aluminun, I cut them to 12x6 inch, I then drilled all 4 corners and placed a washer at each corner between the two plates, I then placed TWO pmds side by side against the lower edge(then drilled and tapped the holes in the thicker piece of aluminum) and mounted the whole thing on my skid plate... looks exactly like a H**$H style cooler, to total cost was 10$ and 1/2 hour of my time.
I believe because the two pieces of metal are sandwiched together the air trapped between the two is heated by the PMD and because of the angle it is mounted on the skid plate the "hot" air rises drawing in cool from the bottom, thus cooling the FSD...or something to that effect when the veh is not moving

No trouble with mine in 40,000KMS
 

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Discussion Starter #14
what about these

OK I was searching "make your own extension harness"
I was wondering alot of you guys solder(sp) your wires.
I was wondering what about the barrel connectors that have heat shrink on them already.

Put in both wires,clamp the wires,heat the connector and you are done.

I did use these on other applications and they are still working after being there for years.

Just looking for opinions here:)
 

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They should be better than solder is done correctly. More resistant to vibration and no heating of the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
gmctd;1571994; said:
If you're low on funds, pull the PMD offa the Inj Pump, then mount the FSD on a heatsink after loosening the four nuts, then retightening them to 15"lbs, or finger-tite with a nut-driver - that's INCH lbs, so no need for your 24" breaker bar.

Cut your plug off about 2" back, noting the two black wires on pin F - that is the FS ground wire terminated to the screw on top of the IP.

Crimp both those 2 black wires together at the harness end, run one wire from there to the plug

D is +12v power - D and F should both be at least 18 gage
OK I am going to extend my harness.
I got 6 wires that go into the connector that connects to the pmd.
When you say crimp what do you mean?
Why can't I just extend the 6 wies?
 

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Explain 'why can't i just extend the six wires', in detail..............
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I have 6 wire at the pmd connector. Cut 2 inch back like you said. add the 5-6 ft to them. put on the connector at the pmd and you are done.

here is my pics


 

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Excellent, dude - show n' tell rules!!!

See that lone black wire headin' over to the left, there?

That grounds to the top of the inj pump - leave it as is, where is.

The other six wires can be cut and spliced - big black one on F, big red one on B and the 'nother big pink one on D need to be min 18awg

If you can use 16awg, even better - rest are signal wires, so 18 is ok.

72" is good, go for it..........
 

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Discussion Starter #20
k thanks will do
I just did not understand about why you said crimp the black wires together.
 
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