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This is what I use: Stant Diesel Fuel cap, part # Stant 10830D. Autozone has them in stock around here. $8.49 + tax.
 

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I had to almost argue with a local shop to order in a locking diesel rated cap cause they though I was nuts cause "any cap will work"...
 

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Discussion Starter #84
OK...that's it....the tank is coming down this weekend. I loosend the cap..alot...and test drove it for exactly 1.5 hrs and it happened on the same hill it always does. It was running perfect. I'm hoping when I get the pickup out of the tank it looks horrible so I can have that "ahh I found it" moment. I also picked up some pour in tank cleaner that's supposed to remove slime and gunk but figure I would wait to pour that in until I can look inside the tank..god I hope I can find something in there.
 

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I would also blow low air pressure, 5-10 psi tops, through the return line back into the tank with the fuel cap off before you drop the tank. The easiest place is to separate the line off the IP and blow air in the line, not into the IP btw.

I'm wondering if there is a slight restriction that causing a build up of pressure in the return system, remember all the issues with sealing the lil return lines.... and when pressure builds up in the return system the IP starts shutting down. I'll skip all the gory engineering that goes on in the IP to have that happen, but it does, and that's how the truck is shut off also and it's a dirt cheap try.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I would also blow low air pressure, 5-10 psi tops, through the return line back into the tank with the fuel cap off before you drop the tank. The easiest place is to separate the line off the IP and blow air in the line, not into the IP btw.

I'm wondering if there is a slight restriction that causing a build up of pressure in the return system, remember all the issues with sealing the lil return lines.... and when pressure builds up in the return system the IP starts shutting down. I'll skip all the gory engineering that goes on in the IP to have that happen, but it does, and that's how the truck is shut off also and it's a dirt cheap try.
I'll do that. But Ive gotta know what the inside of the tank looks like for piece of mind. Plus I can't find the right size and quality return lines anywhere in town. I'd really like to replace those, they are leaky and in pretty bad shape all together.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I found the correct size and quality return lines. I called my local Volkswagen dealership and spoke to there parts dept. And they have it. Its kind of expensive at $10.29 a foot but they said they would work with me on the price since I wanted 6ft. So I will pick some up this weekend.
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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I've thought a few times that it might be a blocked return but if it will run fine with heavy throttle at other times then it isn;t likely. Have you put a clear line on the return to look for air? Might need to check with the nose up and give it throttle
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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Just re-read from the start. The truck sat for 2 years....then the filter was plugged and you got some rusty water from the filter then you got nothing from the filter? yeah drop the tank...I bet you have algae or a bunch of rust scale blocking up the works
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Yea that's what I been thinking. What's the best way to clean algae or slime? And can you clean rust or just replace the tank?
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Just so I know what are signs and symptoms on these trucks when the IP is on its way out. Just wanting to know for my own knowledge. :)
 

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That's a laundry list O junk....Censored

Hard starting cold, hard starting hot, white smoke at idle, white smoke at part throttle, white smoke at full throttle, black smoke.... engine miss fires, engine won't rev past X rpm under load, engine breaks up at high rpm, engine quits running idling, engine quits when returning to idle, rough idle, rpms go up and down on it's own and probably a few others.

:popcorn:
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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Yea that's what I been thinking. What's the best way to clean algae or slime? And can you clean rust or just replace the tank?
As for the algae, a really good cleaning should do it then add some algacide to the next tank of fuel to be sure they are all dead. For the rust it would depend on how far gone it is. Tanks aren't all that expensive. it's been a while but the last time I bought one it was under $100
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Took the tank down. Here is what i found. The sending unit is rusted out. The tank has rust particles and grit in it and the metal lines going to the LP and return line are garbage. Im thinking of using rubber line til i can get ahold of the metal lines to do it right. So tomorrow im cleaning the tank and replacing the sending unit and rigging up temporary rubber lines.
 

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Start by getting as much of the fuel and rust out by your favorite way, I wouldn't use a good fuel pump for example, then use a vacuum possibly, drop in a clean chain and shake, not stir, clean .... repeat as necessary.... it really isn't that bad it should clean up.

Last option is a new tank as the aren't that much.
 

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Get an AC Delco tank sock part #TS1012. 99.9999% of the time the tank sock that comes with the sending unit is for gasoline. Even if the sending unit info says it is rated for diesel.

Gasser tank sock will plug up fast and you will be dropping the tank again to replace the sock.

Make sure the tank sock you get with the sending unit looks like the one in the picture in this link: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/637953-our-1995-chevy-suburban-6.html#post6620705
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Great news after 2 very frustrating days i was able to drive home without stalling or bogging. Im not gonna count my chickens tho until i can drive over 1.5hrs and it not happen. So here is a list of things i fixed or things that broke while trying to fix something else :p

Replaced fuel tank pickup assy. Had to reuse old sock filter (thouroghly cleaned though) no one in town had one.

Cleaned as much rust and grit out of my tank as possible. ( my hands are to fat to fit in the sender hole so i made my little brother inlaw do it lol)

Replaced LP feed line (rusted badly)

Replaced return line. (heres where i almost struck a match and watched it burn to the ground i was so annoyed)...as i was trying to get the 2 sections of return line apart the section that goes up to the filter base decided it no longer wanted to live and split in 2...i cut that line past all the rust and used 1 ft of fuel injection rubber line. (1 battle at a time).

Had to replace the rear tank strap bolt (it broke).

So far so good. Got home crawled under the truck to check for leaks and found none. Hopefully it was the severely rusted lines and sender sucking air causing all my problems.
 
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