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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got the camera out and took some pictures. The right knob is a little low but I wallowed out the holes so there's some upward adjustment. I selected the knobs to match those on my Gibson Les Paul Studio Swamp Ash Guitar that I dearly love. I'd include photos of the connections but I made my splices such that I could hide them in existing split loom.

Reviewing my signature, I've pulled the snorkle, gutted the intake plenum, put a 3" downpipe on the turbo and removed the cat. It has an "F" chip in it so it ignores the blocked EGR but otherwise it's pretty stock.

The left knob controls the 5K potentiometer wired into the "B" wire of the baro and I've run it at "10" only because it doesn't have an "11" position sadly. I put the baro BSer in because the ECM was defueling at 70+ because of the differential of signals when I was only running a boost fooler under the hood. Honestly, I'd have probably been fine soldering a 5K in line on the "B" wire coming out of the baro and been fine but better safe than sorry.

The right knob controls the 10K potentiometer wired into the MAP signal. Again, for a while I had a 10K under the hood right next to the MAP. One thing I compared between the two was total rotation capacity and what it took to set off the SES and they were identical. Either sets the SES off about "3" to "3.5" which leads me to believe a 5K would have been fine on the MAP as well. In fact, at about the "5" position it begins to defuel and throw the SES light which again seems to make the 10K pot seem pointless.

Driving:

Now that I have on-the-fly control, I can tell you that with the vacuum system controlling boost, still nothing happens before 1700 rpm which is probably healthy for the transmission. It seems to run 50 to 100 EGT cooler with the boost turned up which makes me happy. Without turning the MAP controller beyond the point that it sets off the SES light, I can double the psi during acceleration - and maybe it's because I'm busy playing with dials - but I haven't noticed a whole lot of enhancement of performance in terms of acceleration. This seems to support may of the opinions on this board contrary to the ASE 8 Engine Performance Module 16 6.5 EFI Diesel Engine Performance tutorial regarding whether additional scheduled boost results in additional scheduled fuel. Still, the difference is noticeable particularly in normal driving around town at RPMs between 1700 and 2100 RPM - the range I consider the sweet spot for this engine - where you'll find yourself speeding because the truck is delivering more practical power.

So if your a newbie, why bother? Because if you have gauges, you can get the performance that should have been built into the package if liability didn't drive about every decision in the automotive industry. If GM spent the money on the gauges and could legally expect you to backpedal if the EGT got high if you happened to be pulling a horse trailer up a steep grade or it'd be your fault she blew...well, I really believe this would be the package you got when you put your money on the table.
 

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Could you make a detailed wiring diagram for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dumped mine after the wiring most because they're available in a bunch of threads. The textual instructions i used are:

Cut wire to B (boost signal).

CW potentiometer terminal wired to any dash ground or A (ground).

Center pot terminal to wire that was on B (return to ECM).

CCW pot terminal wired to B (module).

Fully CCW is factory stock setting,

Rotation CW increases Boost level.

Full CW (ground) gives Boost Sensor DTC.


On both the baro and the boost, the black wire is ground and the "B" wire, clearly labeled on the male plug going into each module, is the return (modified) signal going to the ECM that you're trying to alter. I'd leave the ground alone at the module, run paired wires out to the individual modules, and ground the potentiometers to the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This diagram (not mine; found on this site) depicts hooking the ground up at the MAP which is what I did when I had the potentiometer under the hood. Now, grounds for the potentiometer are attached to the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Having driven around about a month with the boost fooler, I think I have a handle on what it does. With the controls in the cab, I can adjust it in varying load and driving conditions.

What I've found is, in my case, it's virtually worthless for around town driving. With an empty bed at in town speeds, I can crank the dial anywhere short of setting off the "SES" light and see no change. Generally, I set it so that it so that it peaks at 11 psi at full throttle and leave it there. I run that at night on the highway as well as I'm too lazy to wire up the lights.

When I'm on the highway and hauling, I'll run the dial up just short of setting off the SES light. On hills, without the boost fooler turned off, it pretty much peaks at 7 psi. With the fooler against the "SES" "stop" (for me that's about 3/10th of the throw of the dial), it will readily exceed 12 psi but I dial it down to 11 psi max. At that point, if I chose to dial it back to zero the boost would fall back to about 7 psi and I'd feel what I'd estimate to be a 25-30 ft/lb reduction in torque.
 

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Forgive my ignorance, when is a boost fooler necessary? Is it an "S" code thing, or stock vacuum wastegate? I've got a mecahnical wastegate controller, my SES light usually sets if I drive on the highway, once I get to about 70 it will set, but not always. Never sets off under any other conditions. Goes off by itself after a few start cycles. I thought at first it was a limp-mode thing, but after careful consideration of it there is no loss of power, fuel or boost that I can tell. Does the fooler do anything other than tell the PCM to turn on the SES light?
 

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Factory boost program is mild, boost fooling keeps boost enabled longer than what is in PCM either as F or S, fooling no longer needed with a reflash, fooling is a way to improve performance, run cooler, more grunt with factory fuel delivery program.

Fooling lowers boost senor input value to PCM so it does not know you are making more boost and PCM does not open the waste gate, for more detailed why more boost is a good thing go to Banks webs site tech articles as found in welcome link in any 6.5 Mods signature, also FAQ has some good info, as well as numerious threads found with search.

Fooling on mechanically regulated WG is sometimes required, (primariliy S OBD-IIs to keep from coding) S's EGR routine is more finikey with airflow & vac system monitoring for emission purposes & can code if a mech WG control is used and mech is set for too much boost.

AT NO TIME IMO should a 6.5 be operated without gauges if boost or fuel delivery has been modified (my personal preference is no engine stock or modifed should run without gauges)

Tier 1 defense of the PCM is to clip boost, if you are lying to the PCM with a fooler, you have dumbed down the ability of a engine to protect itself, so the operator WATCHING GAUGES has to step in where the PCM would have had to intervine, Tier 2 is to clip fuel but by then if running fooled or boost modifed, clipping fuel IMO may be too late.

Did I mention that GAUGES ARE A GOOD THING for pretty much everybody???
 

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I have gauges. I have a resistor inline on the boost sensor, but nothing else, so no adjustability. It doesn't do anything that I can tell. I have the boost set at 9 lbs, like I said I get the SES but no detectable fuel clip.
 

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Saw the gauges in your sig Dan, my comments were for the casual reader that might happen upon this thread, fixed resistor isn't ideal situation, as it does not allow for compensating atmospheric changes/altitiude etc, if you/anybody has a functioning vac system until you go reflash PCM electronic fooling is all one needs, so I would not scrap a working vac system for mechanical.

If going mechanical you may prefer to add a varible resistor fooler (Build it or buy it I ran Kennedy's for a couple of years until reflashing nice plug & play unit) for a case such as yours that codes with current a fixed resistor, or experiment with one that works with current spring tension, or cut back a little on spring tension(less boost) to keep from coding. FWIW unless towing 7-8 psi boost is plenty to move about smartly down the hi-way
 

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Turbine Doc;1625625; said:
Saw the gauges in your sig Dan, my comments were for the casual reader that might happen upon this thread, fixed resistor isn't ideal situation, as it does not allow for compensating atmospheric changes/altitiude etc, if you/anybody has a functioning vac system until you go reflash PCM electronic fooling is all one needs, so I would not scrap a working vac system for mechanical.

If going mechanical you may prefer to add a varible resistor fooler (Build it or buy it I ran Kennedy's for a couple of years until reflashing nice plug & play unit) for a case such as yours that codes with current a fixed resistor, or experiment with one that works with current spring tension, or cut back a little on spring tension(less boost) to keep from coding. FWIW unless towing 7-8 psi boost is plenty to move about smartly down the hi-way
I got rid of the vacuum operated wastegate control because it wouldn't make any power, ran 5 lbs and spikes to 7-8 under havy throttle or load. Plus the constant fluctuation was unbearable. The mechanical turbomaster was about the best mod so far. I tired cutting back on the spring until I was making only 5 lbs and it didn't change the SES light problem. Which isn't really a problem since it doesn't seem to cut back on fuel, and I rarely drive on the highway.
So, do I understand this correctly? When I get the Heath ECM I shouldn't need a fooler?
 

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Correct once going reflash fooling won't be necessary.
 
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