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I finally did this yesterday using the 3/4" to 1/2" 90* copper elbow. Very easy to do and took all of about 15 min. Should have done this along time ago.
 

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I will be ordering this kit tonight! What if everything is all gummed up? I seen the pic of the EGR, and the comments of all the nasty looking boost tubes. Is there a way to clean things up without taking them apart? Or should I start un bolting things? LOL nice product, ordering after writing this :)
 

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I just ordered this setup. why do some kits come with a "T" connector and a mouth piece plug?
 

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Oil Leak

I did this in early 07'. At the time I attributed the oil running down the back of bell housing to oil coming out of the turbo connections and falling into the valley then seeping down the back of the motor.

Now, 3 years later and 34K on the truck and 24K on the re-route the back of my motor is still wet..after I've cleaned it.

Is the concensus that this is from a PCV leakage or perhaps my turbo oil tube leaking...Any ideas?

If it is the oil tube how hard is it to replace the gaskets?

Also, I don't think this is a rear main since I can see the oil seeping out of the bellhousing up by the starter. I've read of many going that route just to be revisited again by the leak.

I can probably get my new local dealer to do something but the last time I went the dealership route they totally screwed everything up.

My tubes still look wet so maybe I'm still losing what is left in my intercooler system..I hope..
 

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anyone out there got pics of the reroute kit from alligator performance on a lbz?
 

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Administrator Mister, your truck's smoking...
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My PCV reroute

Hi guys...

I've had dozens of inquiries (both here and in another forum) regarding how to reroute your PCV. The following instructions are how I rerouted mine on my LLY. Other trucks, as I understand it, are nearly identical, though the pics might look a little different.

This is one of the easiest mods you can do to your truck. Here's what it takes:

Parts:

  • 1 1” barstool leg cap
  • 3 5/8” pushon king nipples or barbed nipples
  • 1 5/8” T connector
  • 3 5/8” hose clamps
  • 1 6-7’ 5/8” heater hose
  • 2-4 zip ties
  • Teflon tape
Tools:

  • Regular screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Box knife
Here's what to do:

  1. Remove the resonator (the 6.6L plastic thing) – one hose clamp to loosen, then remove it and set it aside.
  2. With the pliers, grab hold of the clamp on the large hose leading to the turbo, then lift the hose off the turbo inlet.
  3. With the box knife, cut the two PCV hoses that lead to the large hose you just pulled off of the turbo inlet. Be sure to cut the PCV hoses as close to the fittings as possible. Once you have it free, throw the fitting you’ve just cut and removed as far as you can.
  4. Wind some Teflon tape onto the threads of the barbs and mount into the T connector. Tighten to suit yourself. Take the barstool leg cap and shove it onto the turbo inlet. Since there’s a vacuum, there’s no need to clamp it in place; it’ll stay there.
  5. Slide two of the clamps onto the PCV hoses, and then shove the two barbs onto the PCV hoses. Finally tighten down the hose clamps. Take the third hose clamp and slip over one end of the new heater hose. Shove it onto the third barb of the T connector. Tighten the hose clamp. Here’s where I oriented my T assembly upright, so that any actual oil would remain in the hoses and hopefully wind back up in the engine rather than down the heater hose. Everyone does this different, but I don’t think it matters much.
  6. Routing the hose is up to you, but I ran it over to the back side of the driver side wheel well and then down along the frame. Make sure that you cut the end of the heater hose at an angle so it won’t become clogged with mud or ice (or anything else).
  7. Run the hose along your frame, using the zip ties to hold it in place against the wiring harness.

Replace the resonator and you’re done. BTW, if you’ve not already done so, get a 2” plumber’s test plug, and block off the resonator. You can do this and still replace the resonator over it so it looks like stock.

That's it. My thanks to LarryJewel and SweetDiesel for a couple of pics I didn't have; the rest are mine. Good luck!
 

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Nice write up.
When I did my reroute. I did not cut hoses at OEM Tee. Used a 3/4" brass PEX fitting from Lowes. Inserted in tee then ran the hose down to frame. This way I can restore PCV back to original if I ever wanted to.
 

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Ron,
That is what I was thinking. Wouldn't it work the same to just cut the hose going downward and splice it for the hose?
 

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Got Tony's kit, but would like to use a catch can or separator in-line to remove majority of oil and then route it back into the intake, keeping it a closed system, smog legal, and smell free. The Jegs one posted earlier in this thread seems a little small. Found this one at Home Depot that looks like it could handle more flow. If I stash it somewhere relatively cool does anyone see a problem with this?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
 

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You can also use a Moroso catch can. This is what I am using together with Tony's kit. It has a breather on top of it already included and it also have 2 inlets. I only had to buy some brass fittings to connect the hose. I have mine drilled to the frame underneath the passenger side. I only had to empty it occasionally.
 

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Hey Xam, do you have any pics of your catch can?
 

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I currently don't have one but you can use Google and search it. It's about the size of a 20 oz. Gatorade bottle with the breather on top. I think Jeg's has it or American Muscle. It retails for $90 but it's worth it IMHO.
 

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Yeah, I may have to go that route. I was hoping for something flat black, and plastic that I could disguise enough that the smog people won't bother me. The catch can's I've seen on Jeg's are really nice and what I would prefer, but they seem to stand out as not stock. I had a great plastic catch can on my LS1 Camaro that someone gave me, that I've never seen sold anywhere since. It blended in perfect and I passed smog with it on there several times. I looked for it the other day and I must have thrown it away after I got rid of the car. Doh!!!
 

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Go to Moroso's website and search for part # 85400 which is the black plastic or 85467 which is aluminum painted black. Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks, I looked at those. I don't want a breather though, but to keep it a closed system. My old one was just like those, but no breather, and an outlet instead. Don't see it anywhere now. Used to catch a good amount of oil.

Jeg's has this one: http://www.jegs.com/i/Steeda/957/555-3710/10002/-1 but it just looks like an overpriced air compressor filter, hence my original question on using the Husky one which appears to have more flow since the Jeg's one's are only 1/4"NPT and the Husky has 3/8"NPT. McMaster's-Carr has some 3/4"NPT to 5/8" barb fittings that will work good with Tony's 5/8" hose. I see someone earlier in this post used the Jeg's one above, but never reported back if it worked. Looks like I may have to experiment with a couple things to find what's going to work for my application.
 

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might not work but has anyone took a heat gun to the hard lines on an lbz and get it warm enough to bend a little bit to put a 90 on? i wish i had a pvc heater blanket(or w.e its tech. called). i like the fittings from tony but like the cost of just a 90 and some hose better
 

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just did mine 20 minutes ago. cut off the old hoses, hose clamped some heater-hose, then routed them down the sides.

i used a 1" "barstool leg cap" to plug the turbo. they use them so barstools don't scratch the floor. fit perfect, probably didnt even need a hoseclamp but i did it so i would feel better.
I need to do this NOW... While I have the time... So where can I get one of the plugs?
Where can the fancy heat plugs be purchased at???
 

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Just ordered a set of tony's PCV JIC fittings. Fancied using them instead of just normal push on barb type
 
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