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Discussion Starter #1
Reading thru Helms I discovered it's self adjusting .... There is no real cable adjustment either, as I was thinking mine may be stretched from over use ....

Adjustment procedure : Mash peddle to floor three consecutive times ....


Sorry to say it don't do $hit on my truck .....


Reading further it says to remove locking pin on adjuster to adjust when servicing ..... WTF

Is this anything like the star on dinosaur drum brakes and the locking device is simply a "holding" from reversing device ?? Stays in in other words after servicing ....

Before I tear in or tear into the dealer for an explanation any help ...

Mac
Edited by: Mackin
 

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Here is the procedure for adjusting the park brake. I've never seen the lock out pin but it sounds like it should be on the pedal assy and should be removed when adjusting the pedal. First the shoes need to be adjusted.
<H1>Park Brake Adjustment</H1><A name=ss1-702184><A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=702184&evc=sm&pubid=210&cellId=64661&mspsdsubkey=1325#ss1-702184" target="_blank">
<H5>Park Brake Shoe Adjustment</A></H5>


Tools Required


J 21177-A Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge



<H4>Important</H4>


The park brake shoes must be adjusted before the park brake pedal is adjusted.







  1. <LI =1>Set the J 21177-A so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.



    <LI =1>Position the J 21177-A over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.
    <LI =1>Turn the adjuster nut until the lining just contacts the J 21177-A .
    <LI =1>Repeat steps 1-3 for the opposite side.
    <LI =1>The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in). </LI>
<A name=ss2-702184><A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=702184&evc=sm&pubid=210&cellId=64661&mspsdsubkey=1325#ss2-702184" target="_blank">
<H5>Park Brake Pedal Adjustment</A></H5>



<H4>Important</H4>


Before you adjust the park brake, verify that the park brake shoes are adjusted to provide a clearance of 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).




  1. <LI =1>Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has be removed.
    <LI =1>Fully apply and release the park brake pedal 3 times. </LI>
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sid

" 1. Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has be removed."

Is this to be discarded ??

Thanks

Mac
 

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I don't even know what this pin is and I can't find any other discription of it in service information. I will look for it at work tomorrow. I have never done the pedal adjust procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sid

Thanks .....

This is my only grip about this truck from the beginning the stupid azz parking brake ... I've driven plenty of others and the brake is fine, go figure ..... My dealer has been less then corrective two visits now, they say it passes, I think they're wrong .... Mashed to the floor and it will roll in neutral on a slight incline .... In gear it will roll at idle up the same incline, ridiculous.....
I'm trying to rack up as much info and either pull axles myself or bring it back for the third time .....

I think this is why they changed the name from emergency brake to parking brake .... If it were an emergency your ****ed ....

Mac
 

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Mackin,
I think it was on this site, someone posted about the rear seals leaking and getting on the poorly designed parking brake. Have the dealer check this. Check with Eric on this, also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
dieselman said:
Mackin,
I think it was on this site, someone posted about the rear seals leaking and getting on the poorly designed parking brake. Have the dealer check this. Check with Eric on this, also.
Your right the seals if leaking will cause the E-brake not to function correctly ....

I had mine replaced (leaking) along with the e-brake linings and all necessary parts cleaned and supposedly adjusted .... It was only a little better but now is right back to, I need to throw an anchor .... I haven't seen a hint of gear lube again,yet ....

Mac
 

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My parking brake is weak too. Right from new. I was also wondering about how to adjust it. SOmetimes it is easier to do myself than to go whine at the dealer. Usually those monkeys don't know any better.
 

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I looked for the pin and can't find one. When the pedal assy is shipped it has a pin in it that has to be removed after installing. I think this is the pin described.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
GMCSID said:
I looked for the pin and can't find one. When the pedal assy is shipped it has a pin in it that has to be removed after installing. I think this is the pin described.
Then I have to assume they were adjusted improperly and now so far out they don't hold ..... I use my E brake at every park ,it's a habbit so if the self adjusters were working they'd be tight .....

I think I'm going to do a recall at the dealer on it,asap ......

Thanks for the help ....

Mac
 

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Hi , I had lots of trouble with my 02 dually, I intalled a line lock braking sytem and it works really well besides you have to push the toggle switch and push on the regular brake pedal and the same to release. I use it with the e-brake and that way if the hydrolic fails,(leaky brake lines, but not a problem if installed correctly) the e-brake would help too. This might not be the answer but it sure works so well that it stalls the truck if you try to drive with the line lock on. (cost me $450 Canadian installed by a certified mechanic).
 

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Sounds great where did you buy yours if I may ask, and at what cost . I use my e-brake all the time and at times have a lot of weight on and like to have added security just in case.Chasing my truck down the road doesn't sound like fun.I am in and out of my truck while it is running 10 times a day at least and don't trust the e-brake.
 

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nobull1...I will get all this info on my line lock for you, I was in the same boat pipelineing all the time its has been a year and no troubles yet. I think most street and strip type places have them so dragsters can hold the front brakes and the burn the rear tires...I had mine installed on the rear brake line after the master cylinder....any way I will cheek out were the mecanic shop purchased the product. I remeber it cost about $480 candian installed. nice looking rig you have...
 

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Rig welder said:
nobull1...I will get all this info on my line lock for you, I was in the same boat pipelineing all the time its has been a year and no troubles yet. I think most street and strip type places have them so dragsters can hold the front brakes and the burn the rear tires...I had mine installed on the rear brake line after the master cylinder....any way I will cheek out were the mecanic shop purchased the product. I remeber it cost about $480 candian installed. nice looking rig you have...

Thanks very much I await your reply
 

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nobull1......the product name of my micro line lock is AFCO...they are a drag and performance parts....there are other brands...i did a internet search but not a great deal of info...they purchaced my line lock at a local street and strip high performance shop.. the price in US $ on the web range from 100-170 $....hope this helps
 

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Thanks I will do a little research and let you know what I come up with.Thanks again
 

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Anything new on the the lack of holding power on the parking brake?


Mine doesn't feel like it comes on at all.The light is on but nobody home.



Blake
 

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From another post I made:


"I never saw mine, but: I just had mine inspected and some other things a couple of weeks ago. One item I asked for was for them to look at the parking brake. It would not hold the truck worth a darn facing down hill. Parking back down a hill it worked fine. They found both oil seals leaking. They replaced the seals and also installed new parking brake shoes. After I started home, I noticed the truck just didn't seem to roll like it did before. Stopped and checked tire pressure and it was OK. The next day going to work I noticed it again. Got to work and felt the drivers side wheel then disk. Hardly warm. Felt passenger side. Wheel hot, could barely touch disk, and could smell the brake with my head right over the wheel. Took it in and they loosened the brake on that side. Drove fine on the way home. Next morning when I got to work I felt the brakes again. Passenger side still hot. Not as bad as before though. Figure I'll just do it myself.


This got me thinking. I have seen posts before about wheel seals needing replaced. Now, I'm thinking they have been doing this wheel seal thing for about 100 years or so. I've never had one leak. Why now, and why have I seen a few others with the same thing?


Are these parking brakes dragging on some trucks and eventually cooking the wheel seals? Not that you would notice while driving, but just enough to heat it up pretty good. I remember when I called in to get the work done and got to the parking brake not holding well, he said "Well now you know they're different than they used to be."


Any comments? Anybody else feel both rear disks after driving?"


Why are wheel seals leaking? Has anyone felt both rear wheels/discs after driving? The "Emergency Brake" is a piece of crap. Could it be taking out wheel seals prematurely?


Steve
 

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One thing I noticed about mine is that when the parking brake is released, it(the peddle) doesn't always come all the back up. I have to pull it up with my foot. This is most noticable in cold weather. If I don't pull it back up, it may drag and heat up one or both rear wheels. When it's cold there might be a third of peddle travel that needs to be pulled up. Sometimes the light doesen't even go out till I pull the peddle up.
 

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I complained to the dealer about that exact same scenario. They said this is normal. The parking brake release should not release all the way and you should have to pull the pedal back with your foot. I don't know if I believe this or not. Seems kinda stupid.
 
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