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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good afternoon gents,

I am having some issues with a P2563 code on my '06 LBZ. It will come on for about a week and then go off for a week and go on and off. I will have to take better documentation of exact time frames but it is more or less random. I have taken a video of my scan tool commanding the turbo vanes from 0-100 and they seem to be working fantastically. BUT I recently noticed that when I am driving I will randomly lose current to the TC Vane Position Control Solenoid. See picture below for a better understanding.


My first thought is just go ahead and replace the TC vane position solenoid but I do want to hear what you think. Along with this code I will randomly get a P003A but it will not always pop with the P2563. Therefore, I believe that the vanes are functioning as desired but I have an issue with the solenoid itself. Does anyone have any tips or perhaps insight they want to throw my way before I just throw a part at it or am I looking in the wrong direction?

Here is a link to my youtube video down below. The offending time is 2:32, I suggest changing the playback speed to .5 so you can watch it unfold.


Thanks everyone :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have read that thread and I do not believe that it my issue but thank you for the help.
I would really just like someone to answer my question on if the 0 Amps for the TC vane control solenoid while the truck is commanding 78% vane position is normal. I am thinking not. I believe, and more experienced guys may chime in here, that the video I provided shows that the vanes are not stuck since I can cycle them without issue 0-100 and they seem to operate perfectly when driving around. Pretty sure I either have a wiring issue or an issue with the solenoid.

Also as some more information, these codes never occur while driving and only show up the next day. So I may shut the truck off to go to work or coming home and the next time I turn it on they will pop. P003A from what I have seen really shows up when driving around but mine does not, hell it barely pops.
 

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I have read that thread and I do not believe that it my issue but thank you for the help.
I would really just like someone to answer my question on if the 0 Amps for the TC vane control solenoid while the truck is commanding 78% vane position is normal. I am thinking not. I believe, and more experienced guys may chime in here, that the video I provided shows that the vanes are not stuck since I can cycle them without issue 0-100 and they seem to operate perfectly when driving around. Pretty sure I either have a wiring issue or an issue with the solenoid.

Also as some more information, these codes never occur while driving and only show up the next day. So I may shut the truck off to go to work or coming home and the next time I turn it on they will pop. P003A from what I have seen really shows up when driving around but mine does not, hell it barely pops.
I would inspect your engine harness for any rub through wire insulation, rodent damage, loose connector(s), broken wire, etc..
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will double check my harness. I had done a small once over but I will spend some time really diving into it. I believe that the portion of the harness that goes up to that solenoid is following the driver side fender liner.
Thanks Dually
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

So in the video I posted above you can watch and see how the vanes should look driving around and commanded etc. Mine look great it seems but if you go to 7:32 you can see that he turns desired to 0 and then the VPS goes to 0, amperage is still at .20 though. I will inspect the harness first because I have some photos of where I should look. What is RockAuto's policy on returning used ****? lol

I'll still check the harness out though
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked through the wiring harness last night and I don't see anything that would make me suspicious of a wiring fault. I did not get all the wiring harness visible though since I believe it runs underneath the resonator and I didn't have time to take it off. I also drove the exact same route I did when I caught the gremlin last time and could not replicate the issue.

The only solenoids I can find are no name brands on Amazon and eBay. I also see Dorman but Dorman makes me shudder. I MIGHT be able to get a known good one and swap it and see what happens. My girlfriend's dad is a diesel mechanic and does a lot of Powerstrokes so I may be able to pull one and swap it.
Standard Motor Products has two part numbers for this on RockAuto TBA1 and R75002, no idea the difference. I was looking under a 6.0 Powerstroke, the LBZ has a way worse selection even though it is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Forgot one more thing.
I double checked and I do have a "freeze frame" for the codes and it will be when I first turn the truck on. I've attached the photo below. It is always right on start up 0:00:00 for running time. It won't tell me the amps or anything like that though. That is for the P2563, it is exactly the same for P003A except it will be at slightly higher idle but same running time. You can see how the desired position is 80% and the VPS is reading 62%.







It's very weird and very random but I think it still points at the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just as a small update that does not mean a whole lot to this thread but figured I would throw it in here.

The CEL is only setting for P2510. I have cleared the CEL twice this week, the first time the only codes were P2510 and P2610. The second time P2563 and P003A were intermittent but not set and P2510 was confirmed. I'm not sure if I should try and get the ECM flashed by the dealer or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Engineering

Is this the correct ground diagram for the LBZ? I found this off the GM Upfitter website and this is my first time on that site, kind of hard to navigate for me but I may just be an idiot.

Anyway I plan on cleaning all of the main engine grounds which I believe there to be 5(?) GND Zone 3, 6, 5, 7 and 4. The rest seem to be for stuff inside of the truck. This diagram includes things like "Flex Fuel Sensor" but I believe that all the trucks use this ground setup is that correct?

Also my batteries are two different brands and two different ages. Duralast 9/19 and ACDelco 5/20. Worth replacing to eliminate battery issues? I was planning on getting them tested but am open to starting fresh on the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ended up replacing both batteries and fixing some of the battery wiring on December 4th. Seemed to remove the CEL for the P2510 and P2610 I was getting.

My P2563 doesn't pop a CEL and is intermittent. I am going to live with it since it has zero effect on driving at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That is what everyone keeps telling me but nobody has an answer to the video I posted where my amperage goes to zero. I also don't understand why I can cycle the turbo and the vanes no problem. When I watch my scan tool data in comparison with another known good turbo mine looks exactly the same.
If this was a non-intermittent issue I would be starting to look at the turbo and its vanes but this is so intermittent that it isn't even throwing a CEL. If it was stuck it would be happening more often methinks.

These are the questions that nobody can answer unfortunately. I do appreciate the reply from such a well revered figure in the community but doing the GM diagnostic leads me to believe that I have a separate issue than turbo vanes.
 

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Sometimes you just have to trust the advice given and stop over analyzing. I'm sure you will find that there is binding and once cleaned, polished, and back together you will probably be amazed at how smooth it is. The pictures I used were from my own personal LBZ back in 2016-ish with under 100k on the clock. Truck ran fine with intermittent setting of the codes. Vane position tracked commanded on scan tool, but apparently not fast enough in operation. My truck had a heavy haze under hard acceleration which is uncharacteristic of my tuning. Once back together it was clean again.

If you do the unison ring pilot cleaning you will be doing something positive and IF the issue persists it will be external.
 

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I would not mess with the EGR cooler. It's good to have intact to hold things together. Just disable in tuning and you are good. All that fancy plumbing is a waste of money in case you planned to delete and do Y bridge etc. Turbo comes out relatively easily so long as the bolts come free. I trimmed the heat shield before reinstalling as it would not fit otherwise.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
What!?! Delete!?! I would never....

Although, hypothetically speaking, I had heard that the SDP y bridge was a nice piece. One of the main things I have seen, and that if I was to do this in practice, is that I don't want blocker plates. I believe that the LB7 down pipe solves that issue though.
I also thought that the lack of the EGR cooler gave a little bit of extra room next to the turbo oil lines and cleaned up the engine bay slightly.

Which heat shield are you referring to?

But I would never delete just in spitballing here. :)

Edit: I also have no issue working on the truck. I would say 1-10 I'm about a 7 in terms of mechanically inclined. I also am very fortunate to have a diesel shop in the family in case I needed help. The process of turbo removal and what not and everything looks straight forward, albeit intimidating for a first timer. Then again I am not sure I have ever done a brand new project and said "Oh yeah that'll be cake" new is almost always intimidating.
 
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