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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy,


Truck in signature.


Pulled the camper from Central Texas down to Port Aransas, TX. Ran fine. Humid as hell down here still. Next day started truck and it threw a P0101 code w/ reduced power message on the DIC. Cleared it and was gone for 5 days. Threw it again yesterday, again a really humid day. Cleared it but came right back. Truck seems to be running ok but is empty and not towing right now. Leaving for Central Texas in a week. I ordered a new air filter(AC Delco) and bought some MAF sensor cleaner. I have a few questions before I start messing around w/ things. Truck is stock and has 80K miles, original air filter w/ the indicator still showing plenty of life yet (although I am startinsg to wonder about this indicator as it hasn't moved for a long, long time).



1. I would prefer to wait until I got home in two weeks to start messing around w/ things related to this. Can I tow in this reduced power mode for the return trip or am I screwed and have to address this now?


2. My first step would be to remove the MAF sensor and spray it w/ the cleaner, lightly.


3. My second step would be to replace the air filter. Any tips for doing this? Some folks seem to have an easy time doing this, others struggle. I do basic things on the truck like oil/filter changes, lube, glow plug replacement.


4. Last drastic thing would be to run it in to the GM dealer in Corpus Christi, which I really don't want to do.


Your input appreciated.


Thanks,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Looking at the air flow restriction indicator again, perhaps I've been reading this thing wrong. If I look at the core orange stem way inside it, it is at 80%, which means the air filter is probably my issue. It is the outer orange ring in the indicator that has never moved, which I thought would be the indicator, but perhaps not?


How big a battle am I in for to replace the air filter? I have one on hand (AC Delco).



Thanks,
Mike
 

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Replacing the air filter is not a big deal IMO. Remove the screws that hold the cover and remove cover.
There is a wedge in the bottom of the air box that shoves the filter into the box to seal it, so you might have to lift the filter while pushing towards the engine. (I hope that makes sense).
Install new filter, making sure that the filter drops down past the wedge. Replace cover.

Should be it!
 

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Looking at the air flow restriction indicator again, perhaps I've been reading this thing wrong. If I look at the core orange stem way inside it, it is at 80%, which means the air filter is probably my issue. It is the outer orange ring in the indicator that has never moved, which I thought would be the indicator, but perhaps not?
How to Inspect
When the restriction indicator turns black, or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the filter and reset the restriction indicator.
As always mentioned on here the filter minder is pretty much useless.
 

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On the end of the new air filter, there is a sponge rubber sealing ring or gasket. If you lube that gasket with silicone spray, or silicone grease (just a very thin coat will do), it will make installing and removing the air filter a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the air filter in w/ simply removing the box cover screw and cover. Thanks Ron for the tip about lubing the rubber gasket. The old filter was really dirty, so I need to probably check/replace around 40-50K miles. I drive highway 95%. Reset the filter minder but it had no effect so I am not going to pay attention to that device anymore, sheesh. Seems to have better throttle response now, too. Hopefully my P0101 doesn't show up anymore. If it does, a MAF sensor clean is next up.


Mike
 

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I would highly suggest to change your stock filter no more than 25k.
I’ve never understood people that think they can go 40k-50k before they change the airfilter.
A few have tried but it bit them in their a$$, with exactly what you’ve dealt with, why push it.

I only run aftermarket airfilters @ 5k-6k they are pretty dirty, I’ll swap out with a clean one, there’s no way a stock paper filter will take in 5+ times dirt and still flow good.

Monitor your MAF g/s, write down the reading with a new filter idling engine at operating temps, when the g/s number drops about 5 g/s, it’s time to open up your wallet and install a new airfilter.
Pictured below @ 68 degrees the number will drop to around 41-42 when the engine is at operating temps, that’s what you want to go by when it’s time to install a new filter.

Filter minders are a waist of plastic junk, on our work trucks the engine would barely run the filter needed replaced, the filter minder showed your still good to go.

It’s possible you might get another P0101, just because the engine has new airflow life and needs to relearn breathing again. Just clear it, it could take a few more times to recalibrate itself.
One way to know is know your MAF g/s also MAP compared to BARO numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips DRC. What is the monitor you are running?
 

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Edge Insight CTS2
Edge has CS2 and CTS2 which has a little larger screen.
 
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