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Discussion Starter #1
I have read countless pmd threads and I finally realized all of them suck so why pay more. I found xtremediesel has a dtech for 200. The question is, is this an old design or the newest and "best"? It's DT19209057 but thing that I wonder about is the pmd picture has part of the pmd indented. I already have a remote mounted pmd but I believe the PO used the same pmd that was on the pump. At least there was a spare in the glove box and now it doesn't just shut off.
 

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The dent is only for clearance since the PMD body was made thicker they had to allow for clearance when it is mounted on the IP.

Like mentioned there is no way to know if you have a good or bad PMD when purchased except to run it for as long as possible.

Use quality heat transfer paste/pad when mounting on a good heatsink and remote mount it outside the engine compartment with a good extension harness for the longest life possible.
 

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My only (personal) thing against the Dtech PMD's is that there are stories of them cauig your truck to go all Toyota (runaway) when they fail.

At least the Stanadyne PMD's typically just cause stalling when they fail - more of a "fail safe" IMHO.
 

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Well, you just have to test it on the truck hook up to the IP as said in post #2.

If it starts and truck drives, then it is good.

Test the spare that way. Have it ready on a heatsink also with the resistor. Test drive it for a few days and if it is good, it won't chug and stall then you get a good one. Store that as your "working" spare.

It does not matter what brand. If it is good, then it is good. If it is bad, then it is bad.
 

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My only (personal) thing against the Dtech PMD's is that there are stories of them cauig your truck to go all Toyota (runaway) when they fail.

At least the Stanadyne PMD's typically just cause stalling when they fail - more of a "fail safe" IMHO.

That combined with the fact that the MFR of this aftermarket device sold reman pumps for the longest time with USED PMD's tells me in no way can I trust it.

I agree with the "all suck" comment, but we've had pretty decent service from the latest gray Stanadyne units especially when remote mounted to my MUCH LARGER THAN THE COMPETITION cooler and secured tightly. Stanadyne has been excellent (albeit a bit slow) about warranty and I've also been finding that many failed units are not being mounted securely. Clamping force is critical to get good heat transfer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies! My biggest beef with the new stanadyne is the fast that you have to use an adapter or grind some of the connector. What were they thinking?!? It doesn't make a lick of sense other than they want it to be different. So generally stanadyne stalls and dtech runs away?
 

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So generally stanadyne stalls and dtech runs away?
Yep. I've had Stanadyne die on me and it would *momentarily* bump the gas when it was dying, but never to the point where it became dangerous - usually it would just stall though, as 99% of other Stanadyne PMD failures go.

I have, however, read more then a few threads about Dtech (and Flight Systems, same diff) PMD failures that resulted in dangerous runaway situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So from your point of view you would use the new gray Stanadyne? What is the best way to hook it up to an existing extension cable and cooler? And I have read a few times but can't exactly remember what is the stock resistor something like 4 or 5? Thanks for the replies!
 

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There is a thread floating around that details the trimming needed to fit the connector and resistor from the old to new style grey PMD's.

There is also an adaptor cable made about 3 inches long that does the job better IMHO,since the new grey stanadyne has gold plated pins you really should use the gold plated connector to avoid problems between diss-similar metals.
 

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You can use the resistor by trimming it. Here is the PDF, the trimming instruction is in page 3 of the document.

I am sure you can trim the connector also but as Racer55 said, it is gold plated so you won't want to mix due to reaction.
 

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Takes a matter of seconds with a sharp utility knife to trim the connectors to make them "neutral. Just be sure tio remove the seal before trimming to prevent cutting and proceed with caution.
 

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Okay, this is the "newest" thread I saw that came up on searches....(unless I can't search well).

So, what's the word on D-tech brand PMDs? I've seen some "too good to be true" prices.....:eek:
 

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Okay, this is the "newest" thread I saw that came up on searches....(unless I can't search well).

So, what's the word on D-tech brand PMDs? I've seen some "too good to be true" prices.....:eek:
anything not branded stanadyne is a flight systems pmd and are prone to the runaway, the grey stanadyne is the better way to go, they have proven to be more reliable
 

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Luck of the draw...
I purchased the truck with an SSD setup mounted on the intake in JAN 07. I don't know how long it was there before me but it was still working fine when I replaced it out of preventative maint. concerns in MAR 08. The replacement was a Stanadyne from SSD and went straight to the bumper courtesy of a Kennedy Extension cable. I sent the old SSD PMD to a fellow member in dire need and never heard anything negative about it.
I swapped the SSD Stanadyne out for the new D-Tech on the IP I changed in APR 10. Then a Heath isolation set up with D-Tech PMD went on the truck in Aug 11. I put the SSD unit back on the SSD heat sink and it is now on my neighbors truck, behind his bumper and it continues to work fine. The old D-Tech is on a old Heath Heatsink as a spare. Again, Luck of the draw but for one as cursed as I am for finding the long way around a lot of these issues, the PMD snake hasn't bitten me and I've given it plenty of opportunity to do so.
 

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I had a Dtech start shaking my motor back and forth so violently I thought the motor mounts were gonna break. No thanks. find a Good used Black Standyne.
 

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Ah, ok....thanks for the info. I went 'cheap' on a few parts, Dorman heat sink & relocation kit. PMD, the place I got it, well, bought two for the price of one (less)....but it is a D-Tech. I'll take the risk for now.....I'll buy a grey one eventually, as funds allow.

Diddo w/ my fuel pump, cheap oem for now, then refit w/ a good one and pre-filter pending funds.
 

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I never had any problem with the factory lift pumps. The only reason I run a Raptor is because I had an extra one thanks to the scumbags at Lee's Auto ranch in Ct.
 

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Ah, ok....thanks for the info. I went 'cheap' on a few parts, Dorman heat sink & relocation kit. PMD, the place I got it, well, bought two for the price of one (less)....but it is a D-Tech. I'll take the risk for now.....I'll buy a grey one eventually, as funds allow.

Diddo w/ my fuel pump, cheap oem for now, then refit w/ a good one and pre-filter pending funds.
Whatever you do, mount it to the heatsink and test it in the truck.
Sometimes, the PMD does not even start a truck.
Regardless of the brand, both are crappy and will fail.
Some last longer than others and it is also depends on the location and the ability of heatsink to shed the heat.
Also, the higher the temp swing (not usually under our control), the more chance PMD will fail fast.
 

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Not even start a truck.....wow.

Well, if I ever get fed up, I'll just drive over to Ellensburg. It's just 45 min away....
 

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