OK To Plug Oil Cooler Lines?
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Pipe plugs are the answer.
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so if your not working these trucks or even if you were... its ok to plug the cooler lines?
ive got a slight leak which will soon be a problem im sure but why would they put them in stock if they arnt neccesary? just for pulling or?
ive got a slight leak which will soon be a problem im sure but why would they put them in stock if they arnt neccesary? just for pulling or?
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I had a 6.2 with leaky oil cooler lines.I disconnected them altogether and took out the fittings in the cylinder block,went to NAPA with the sample and they gave me two pipe plugs which did the job perfectly.I used my 6.2 like that for 2 years.Always worked perfectly.Oil pressure was no problem.
They are used for trailer towing,extreme heat,etc.......but the engine can do without them.
They are used for trailer towing,extreme heat,etc.......but the engine can do without them.
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92 Posts
awesome... sounds like the easy way to fix ONE of my oil leaks... haha
I had a van with those plugged pipe lines. The bad thing was that oil must be changed more often than normally. I guess hot temperature shorten its life cycle and 6.2 has very little oil capacity for big diesel.
You should remove plug under oil filter if plug those pipes or oil flows through the bypass system only.
You should remove plug under oil filter if plug those pipes or oil flows through the bypass system only.
You can run it for a minute with the fittings for the cooler lines plugged, but driving with them plugged without an oil cooler is a very bad idea. Oil is for cooling as well as for lubrication, and without an oil cooler, it can't perform its cooling duties anymore.
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So it makes a lot of sense to keep the oil cooler in for longer oil life and lubricity but it does make that big of a difference?
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On a diesel,.....oh yeah.
You get the oil flowing as it's supposed to, not through a thin bypass in the block that blocks the flow. I picked up about 10 PSI oil pressure after installing an aftermarket oil cooler --- previous owners had plugged the fittings on the block and removed everything of the oil cooler setup. If it gets really hot, oil pressure still goes down to 10PSI at idle, so I wish I had a larger and/or more efficient oil cooler. It's something I'll probably change sooner or later ...
I don't see the oil temperature, but I can see the relationship between coolant temperature and oil pressure. You definitely want a good oil cooler to remove heat from the oil and thereby from the engine as well --- and the stock setup using the side tank in the radiator is a very good thing (I wish I could use that).
I had to make use of the other side tank for the transmission oil because with a 11x11" B&M style transmission cooler with a fan on it, mounted on the front, there was no way to keep the return temperature at reasonable levels. The temperature would just go up, depending on load. Since the side tank is in use, I can easily keep it at 160F--170F even when it's 100F+ outside.
The side tank alone wouldn't do it, but it does a great deal of the cooling. So for the engine oil, you do want the side tank --- and eventually another cooler behind the grille.
Plugging the fittings and driving without an oil cooler is just a very bad idea. There's no way for the oil to get rid of any heat without it, and these engines can generate a lot of heat. If you still have the stock setup but only need new rubber lines because they are leaking, just get them and put them on. If I had needed only the rubber lines, I'd have done that ...
I don't see the oil temperature, but I can see the relationship between coolant temperature and oil pressure. You definitely want a good oil cooler to remove heat from the oil and thereby from the engine as well --- and the stock setup using the side tank in the radiator is a very good thing (I wish I could use that).
I had to make use of the other side tank for the transmission oil because with a 11x11" B&M style transmission cooler with a fan on it, mounted on the front, there was no way to keep the return temperature at reasonable levels. The temperature would just go up, depending on load. Since the side tank is in use, I can easily keep it at 160F--170F even when it's 100F+ outside.
The side tank alone wouldn't do it, but it does a great deal of the cooling. So for the engine oil, you do want the side tank --- and eventually another cooler behind the grille.
Plugging the fittings and driving without an oil cooler is just a very bad idea. There's no way for the oil to get rid of any heat without it, and these engines can generate a lot of heat. If you still have the stock setup but only need new rubber lines because they are leaking, just get them and put them on. If I had needed only the rubber lines, I'd have done that ...
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9 Posts
I did the same about 2 or 3 years ago, and now its leaking from my valve cover. I wonder if it can be the reason? And lot of smoke...
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Is your CDR hooked up and working properly ?
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CDR valve? I think so. Do you think I should have link the to lines from de cylinder block?
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Blocking off the oil cooler line ports in the block wouldn’t contribute to the valve covers leaking.It’s just pure coincidence that it’s leaking there now at this point or the bolts have loosened some due to vibration.
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Ok Thank you for your reply, I will look to change de PCV/ CDR valve, because my main problem is the white smoke, and I think it can help. I never changed it for the last 15 years.
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Yes most times that cdr valve is neglected.You could also buy a breathable oil filler cap like the late 70s 5.7 Diesel engines in the Chevy trucks used.I use those same oil filler caps on my 90s GM trucks with the 6.2/6.5.Rockauto will have those in stock.
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I suppose this is what I need?
But for the breathable oil filter cap, I have no Idea what is that...?
I have a g20 chevrolet 6.2l 1989.
My main smoke problem is at the start. I added a bypass button for the control relay failure of glow plug, maybe I need to replace this controller to, and add good glowplugs. Or do you think I may need to change my injector or at least clean it.
And I saw on youtube that it's possible to turn the injector pump just a little to change the timing, but it's a hard job...
Thanks for your help!
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No problem👍You can tweak the pump a little to the driver side,but on the vans it’s a bear to do indeed.
New injectors would be a good idea.Especially if the mileage is high.Only buy Bosch or Delphi.I’ve had good luck with stanadyne but they are expensive and hard to find.
New injectors would be a good idea.Especially if the mileage is high.Only buy Bosch or Delphi.I’ve had good luck with stanadyne but they are expensive and hard to find.
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If you need glow plugs only buy acdelco 60G or Bosch 80034.When you mentioned smoke I thought you might be referring to crankcase fumes in the engine compartment so that’s why I mentioned the breathable oil filler cap.
But your having white smoke problems I take it when your doing a cold engine start?
But your having white smoke problems I take it when your doing a cold engine start?
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