I just made the switch to synthetic oils last year. I use rotella syn. in the engine (half the price of royal purple), and royal purple in the auto tranny. What I noticed is the syn. stuff loosens the resins and gunk that accumulate in the tranny. I had to change my tranny fluid prematurly Because it smelt terrible(burnt). i believe this to be form the petro tranny fluid residue. I will continue to use syn. oils, though because in the long run it should pay offin engine life . Petro is nasty stuff, it has water in it, microbes that are breaking down the oil, and sulpher, leading to sulpheric acid formation.
Also, if you are burning biodiesel, I would think this should extnd oil and engine life, while using syn. oils because both are made from highly processed veg. oils.Edited by: quantum mechanic
What is your goal of switching to synthetic, extended change interval well maybe, lots of thoughts on that issue over the years here's mine FWI, one of those calls you will have to make no answer is one size fits all.
Synthetics have come a long way and are now very good, but do the benefits justify the cost. Are you running stock filtration or dual bypass, for me if running stock filtration I'd say stay with dino oil DELO or Rotella have been very good for years, it's currently less expensive (for most part/sales-promos excluded) and more than meets mfr recommendations, dino oil also has improved along with synthetics.
Why 3000 mi interval, again jury is not out on what is best for all, but my preference is 3K if I forget to do at 3 K or get overcome by events and don't get to it for another 1000 mi or so, it allows for fudge factor to go to higher mileage.
Remember that in a Diesel soot/combustion byproducts in the oil is a fact of life, as well as potential fuel oil dilution, unless you are running a routine oil sample program to let you know true condition of the oil I'd stay with what has worked for many years.
Synthetic and extra filtration probably best combination if you trust the health of the engine/injection system, extra filters will take care of the soot/combustion deposits but do nothing for dilution, you still need to take periodic samples for that, (even a good idea for dino oil every so often), but if going extended interval with a synthetic I would make samples a regular check on mine. So cost of samples and base cost of oil vs more frequent dino oil change need to evaluate your situation for what works best.
Synthetics in trans & rear probably the best location for those as the change interval allows for you recoup cost vs. benefits. that's my take on it. feel free to agree or disagree that is what forums are about, ask-read-decide; what is best for you from info available.Edited by: Turbine Doc
To be honest I'm going by what a diesel Tech friend of mine said. "Oil is cheap! everything else that uses it isn't!"
I started a rotation of changing the oil in the engine every 2500 miles. As I just got my first diesel a little more than a month ago it's been an easy start. I know that the oils have to meet certain standards & at the miles I plan on changing it most likely any oil would still be good. Since with the amount of miles I drive a year I'm looking at only 5 or 6 changes. So if I spend $20 or $30 dollars on oil change it's isn't a big deal. It's when you add all those extra zeros to those numbers that kills me.
I'm more concerned with trans., transfer case, and gears. Have been told that the Synthetics are better for these as they don't thicken up as bad when its cold.
I don't mind spending a little extra now so that I don't have to spend a lot extra latter.
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