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Discussion Starter #1
I drove down to MTM "oilguard" factory today. I spoke with the three people in the front. They were very kind and helpfull. They spent 1 hour with me showing me the product and discussing install questions I had.

I purchased one of the oil filter kits, 6 filters, 3 oil analysis kits, the oil sample port upgrade and the upgraded attachment piece (see pics below). Instead of connecting to the side port bolt hole you now screw on the adapter to the oem filter area and then put the oem filter on the adapter. It has a 90 fitting that goes to the filter.

My nictane fuel filter arrived today as well. I will be busy making a mess of things this weekend.


 

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Hey Problem Child,


Can you explain what this is supposed to do and how it works? I'm not familiar w/ this product.
 

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I would also like to put the OilGuard on my truck, but want to retain the Fumoto valve and route the OilGuard return line into the oil pan. Do you guys think it would be too expensive to have a machine shop machine a brass or stainless manifold that would thread into the drain hole on the oil pan and allow for the return oil line on the OilGuard and a Fumoto valve also? I'm definetely considering checking this out.


Josh
 

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Problemchild-


Where does a guy get this product? I talked to John Kennedy from KennedyDiesel and he has a system through Amsoil that looks pretty good. I'm also from Wisconsin so If he has that amsoil system on his truck and it works flawlessly in this climate, I'm leaning towards putting the same system he has on. What do you think?


Is that as quality of a product as your showing or not? They all seem to do just about the same thing, it just shows the mounting is all a little different.


Most importantly, is the oil guard bypass system, something that seperates a 125,000 mile diesel from a 250,000 mile diesel. Is the product that good? If so, (this might be a stupid question) howcome the big three don't offer secondary filter kits, oil guard bypass systems on all the new diesels just so they can make up some bullsh*t commercial on how there oil filter system and fuel system are the cleanest. And also tell everybody that there diesel will last 500,000 miles. Just a thought.





Thanks for your info.
 

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Because they make money selling new trucks, not selling one that lasts a LONG time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would go with amsoil. I have the oilguard BUT I have called them 2 times and they REFUSE to call me back. They get BAD word of mouth from me from now on.


OILGUARD has very poor customer service. Forget getting any question you have answered!
 

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GMCSLEHD said:
I would also like to put the OilGuard on my truck, but want to retain the Fumoto valve and route the OilGuard return line into the oil pan….


Josh
GMCSLEHD,
I received an email from Mark at OilGuard that said they are working on a new oil pan return fitting that has a Fumoto-like valve.

Problemchild,
Sorry to hear you are having problems getting in touch with OilGuard. So far in my dealings with them they have been very responsive. Maybe give them another chance (??)
 

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jbplock thanks for the info, I'll have to give them a call and try and find out when it will be available.


Josh
 

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If a guy were to order the oilgard kit today, would he recieve the new updated adapter? The one that I see on the top of this page? Or does a guy have to specifically ask for this.


My order kind of depends on what your answers are.


Thanks again.
 

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TommJr I just got off the phone after placing an order with Roy (one of the owners--I guess the receptionist was out) from OilGuard. The standard Duramax kit EPS-20-DUR is $160 and comes standard with a two port oil pan plug fitting (one for the return line, one for draining--maybe the Fumoto will fit). To upgrade to the oil sample valve on the secondary filter head add $20, and to add the improved filter element adapter shown above costs an extra $25. Throw in an additional filter ($13) and I'm at $218 + shipping. They also include one free oil analysis.


JoshEdited by: GMCSLEHD
 

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GMCSLEHD,


When you receive your OilGuard let us know if a Fumoto will fit the oil drain port. That will determine if I order an OilGuard or not.


Problemchild,


Can you tell if a Fumoto will fit? Is the oil drain port the same size as the stock drain plug?
 

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BVoyles--will do.



Josh
 

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GMCSLEHD said:
... I just got off the phone after placing an order with Roy… from OilGuard. The standard Duramax kit EPS-20-DUR is $160 and comes standard with a two port oil pan plug fitting (one for the return line, one for draining--maybe the Fumoto will fit)...Josh
Josh
Unless thee is a new oil pan adapter, the Fumoto will not work with the one that comes with the OilGuard. The fitting that came with my OilGuard has two 1/8NPT female ports – one for a 1/8 drain plug and one for the #4JIC return fitting as shown.

I'm hoping they make a new one that will have the Fumoto type feature built in.
The new oil filter adapter (shown above) makes the feed install much easier but using the 3/8 port on the oil filter adapter is still a good choice as well.
 

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jbplock thanks for clarifying that. Well that pretty much sucks. I'm thinking that maybe a 1/8"male to 1/4" female street elbow would work, no? (on second thought, I don't think the threads are the same)


JoshEdited by: GMCSLEHD
 

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Josh,
The problem with adding any adapter to the 1/8 plug is that the adapter’s center hole is only about 1/8 inch in diameter, which makes for a verrrrry slow drain. So far I have tried the following methods of draining.

  1. <LI class=MsoNormal style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in">Disconnect JIC fitting – this is messy… oil drains onto the cross member where is forms a pool on the frame. I tried slipping a hose over the fitting but oil is also draining from both the return hose and pan fitting… Not good.
    <LI class=MsoNormal style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in">I added a JIC run-tee in-line with the return hose at the pan fitting with a cap on the tee port. TO drain I removed the cap. This worked but it was even slower than removing the JIC hose because the center diameter of the #4JIC fitting is only about 1/8 inch in diameter. Still not good – way to slow.
    <LI class=MsoNormal style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in">I bought a straight 14mm x #4 JIC adapter that I planned to install in the pan fitting and then connect the return with a JIC elbow adapter. To drain I would disconnect the elbow and oil would flow straight toward the back. I decided against this when I realized that slight rotational movement of the engine on the motor mounts might loosen this connection since the direction of movement would be the same as the fitting’s threads.
    <LI class=MsoNormal style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in">Remove the 1/8 plug opposite the return fitting. This is still slow but not as bad as through the JIC fittings. The actual diameter of the plug opening is about ¼ inch. I believe it was OilGuard’s intent to use the 1/8 plug for oil draining. Initially I didn’t want to use this plug because I worried that after repeated use of the tapered NPT threads, it may begin to leak. But maybe this wouldn’t be the case since there is no pressure in the pan. </LI>
I’m currently waiting to see if OilGuard offers a new fitting with a “Fumoto-like” feature. If not I may just leave it alone or re-route the return to the filler cap like a-bear did. AMSOIL also sells a nice swivel fitting that can be installed directly into the top of the fill cap (I have one for my car).
Edited by: jbplock
 

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jbplock,


10-4. Looks like oil filler cap route for now.


Josh
 

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This may be a stretch, but here it is anyway...first, I do not have the off-road package, so no skid plate, so no need for a fumoto. My plan is to put a 1/8 NPT elbow to a JIC cap. This will be on the other side of the return fitting. I will just remove the JIC cap to drain the oil. I don't care how slow it drains because I usually let it drain for atleast an hour anyway, besides the fact that if we are using synthetic, we shouldn't be draining the oil too often anyway....

But here is my idea.... Do as I suggested, Use a 1/8 NPT to a JIC elbow. Instead of capping it there, run a length of SS braided hose (same length as fumoto) to a JIC fitting with a cap. Use 2 wrenches at the cap so you don't twist the line when removing. Also remove the oil filler cap when draining to prevent glugging/ faster drain.

jbplock and others, how tight did you make the 2 fittings on top of the filter mount? I made the mistake of putting the return on first. I needed them to both be in a specific configuration, so when I went to put on the supply fitting, the return fitting was in the way!!!
I had to back up the return fitting to do it. I knew that you aren't supposed to do that, so I ended up tightening it an additional turn, VERY TIGHT! The books say 2-3 turns past finger tight, this one is probably 3 or 3 1/4 .
SPICER
 

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Spicer,
The 90 deg JIC with a cap will work fine except it will be slow. It took about 1.5 hours to get mine drained through the #4JIC run tee with a cap I had in the return line. Also if you use the elbow it would have to go on the pan fitting first since there is no clearance to tighten it once it's on the pan (but I'm sure you knew that)



Regarding your comments about the fittings on the filter head, as I recall OilGuard shipped my Kit with 90-degree fittings but I used straight fittings and tightened them 2-3 turns as you said. I mounted the filter body parallel to the ground so the hoses came straight off the top of the mount toward the engine. Sounds like you have yours mounted vertical (??) which would make changing the element less “oily”.


 

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jbplock,
That is correct, I WILL mount it vertically. Mine is not installed yet because, to make a long story short, my truck was delivered to me new with 15 quarts of oil in the oil pan. I found this out at my first oil change at 2700 miles. Upon George's advice I did an oil analysis at 17,000 miles to look for any indication of damage. My lead was 14ppm, tin 4ppm. George said that we need a trend to see if these wear metals are from a crappy air filter(high silicon too), still breaking in, or damage from overfill. My oilguard is ready to go but George advised me to wait so that we don't skew the trend
. So I will wait for atleast 1 more analysis before install.
Regarding mounting vertical, I made a custom bracket. It will be mounted to the frame just behind the full flow filter. It was tricky to design because of the non-flat frame, so I had 1/2 inch thick pieces welded to the back of the bracket to act as thick spacers. The mounting position is ALMOST vertical, but I had to tilt it a little to avoid the torsion bar. I used pre-existing holes on the frame and simply drilled them a little bigger. The bracket fits perfect, but like I said, must wait.
Regarding mounting it on its side, I am convinced that any mounting position other than vertical MUST trap some air and render some of the filtering surface unused. I know the manufacturer says that it is pressurized and therefore can be mounted in any configuration, but my logic says no. Imagine it upside down or even sideways, if the return lie is not on TOP, air will be trapped. The system may be pressurized, but regardless of pressure (0 or 3000psi), air will still sit above the fluid. Air could be FLUSHED out, but the flow on this system is too low in order to create enough turbulence to FLUSH out the air.
I mentioned this to Mark Meddock and he paused for a minute and said "I guess I will have to think about that for a while."
My experience with Oilguard has been VERY possitive. Problemchild, give them another chance.
JIC fittings seem pretty simple, don't overtighten, just snug, don't use any thread dressing, ANY ADVICE? SPICER
 
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