Oilguard has an adapter that fits between the oil filter mount and the filter. It has 3 ports and works very well. Some have suggested getting one of these to have an easy location for a pressure port. Costs about $20, see www.Oilguard.com. Look under Duramax icon at top. If you do not see it, then they have not updates the site yet. Call and ask for Mark Meddock. SPICER
jbplock and SPICER, thanks for the feedback. The pressure switch I have has a 1/8"npt brass fitting so I hope it doesn't leak.
I am adding the EP309 lift pump for a couple of reasons. I have an occasional stall after stopping at a redlight or stop sign. It dies as soon as I hit the pedal. It will start immediately and die again. I am thinking this could be air related. Usually by the third try it runs fine and may not stall again for 6 months. I have a Racor post OEM filter that I changed after 22000 miles and it was only about 10% used. The OEM filter was about 1/3 used at 15000 miles so the Racor does catch some small particles that the OEM doesn't. If it runs smoother or gets better mileage with a lift pump then that is just a bonus.
All three of the 3/8" ports on the filter base would provide the pressure needed. They are on the dirty side of the filter which would mean the OEM filter anti drain back valve would keep the engine primed/full of oil after shut down if a oil bypass filt is installed. There are a few pics in my sig that show the ones I used for the lift pump pressure switch and the oil bypass filter feed. Edited by: a bear
I have been having the same problem with mine! I have an 03 that only has 22k on it. No extra fuel filter YET. I was also thinking that there could be an air issue. Not real sure. Scared the heck out of me when it first happened!
Mine is an '03 also that just turned 30k this weekend. Do you have the Juice? The first time the stall happened was shortly after I Juiced it so I sent it back and of course upgraded to the HJ. No stalls for a while and then it happened two or three times then nothing for months. My thought on the air was the dirtier the fuel filter the less air that would be trapped due to the filter being used from the bottom up. I just changed the filters about a thousand miles ago and it has warmed up since then here in Texas. The last stalls were in warm weather last year also. It has always started with no problem.
Isn't there also a 1/4"npt on the base? I started to remove the one closest to the filter but noticed it looked like it was at the end of a passage in the casting that might be a bypass connecting the dirty and clean side. I could just see springs and balls going all over the garage so I thought I would ask here.
The lift pump is installed and working. No noticable change in idle or performance in the 50 miles I have driven it today. I installed the pump, relay and manual switch on the firewall together. The fuel hose was easy to do this way since you just remove the hose from the OEM filter, extend it to the pump and from the pump back to the filter. The only concern I have with this location is whether the underhood heat will affect the pump life....???
Any of the 3/8" ports that requires a allen wrench to remove would work. Your right about the ones with the hex head (wouldn't use these as they have internal parts) All of the ones on my truck had loctite red. Warming up the engine helped but they are still tough to break.
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