Diesel Place banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my oil cooler lines roughly a year ago with leroys lines. I think I might of screwed something up when I installed the fittings on the block as I have a oil leak. Ive been dealing with it for about a year now and am tired of the oil mess in my driveway. It doesn't leak much a couple drops and its done. Ive tried seaching but cannot find what info i needing. Can you replace just the seals in the end of the hoses? If so does anyone have any idea where I can get them? Also what is the easiest way to access the lines on the block. When I did it the last time I had access to a hoist so I could get to them from the bottom but for me still had problems reaching them. Can you get to them from the side if you take the inner fender out? By doing this do you have more room to work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Also the it doesn't seem like the leak is coming from the block side. It looks like it is coming from the hose side of the fitting.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,702 Posts
If there are any seals in the hose, Leroy should carry them or you can pop one out and take it to a parts store for a replacement.
There is a "How to" thread in the 6.5L FAQ on replacing the oil cooler lines with pictures: 1992 Chevy 2500 new life!
IIRC, you just work from underneath the vehicle to access them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Firstly maybe check in with Leroy and maybe they would have specific knowledge but it sounds like there are two spots it could be leaking from on line side.... one is a slightly nicked or damage seal face. Either on the SS fitting or the hose fitting which is a AN flare. Usually they do not require a sealer of any sort but I have seen (what I think is) ptfe on many flare fitting seals when working on factory tractor hydraulic systems. I have never needed any but I have read that a little film of something... grease, ptfe, whatever can help prevent galling the seal faces. They do make special crush washers that can also help seal at that location.

Now there can be another leak at the crimp due to an unfortunate assembly where the fitting goes into the hose and something scratches the ID of the hose and oil could work its way out that way. That would not be your fault.

Best advice is clean with brakeleen and warm it up and see if you could tell if it is hose side or fitting side where the oil originates first. Then if it is fitting side disassemble and clean thoroughly and smear a LIGHT FILM of pipe dope on the sealing face of the male side AN fitting and reassemble.

If leak is from the hose end you may have to look at what the warranty on that is.

-edit- I looked at the pic on the website and it shops pipe tape being used on the AN side of the fitting....? Not sure what that would help other than creating a sort of mellow threadlocker so it did not loosen on the road. Not sure I would advise that though. Anyone with
635373


thoughts?
 

·
Registered
1995 GMC Suburban
Joined
·
17,872 Posts
IIRC, it was not easy due to space. The first time I did it, it was leaking.
I actually ended up having to pay a mechanic to tighten it for me.
It just need a little bit more snug to make sure that it did not leak from the swivel point.

He undo it and reinstall it.
IIRC, the sealant causes it to not be able to go further.
We ended up not to use any sealant.

Yes, it is a JIC fitting.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top