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Discussion Starter #1
Someone on another site posted a picture of an Oil Guard kit installed on their truck that ran the return line up to the oil fill cap. I can't find it and would like to see it if anyone can help.


Also, anyone have any results of bypass filters other than Amsoil?


George
 

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This topic probably won't turn out to be as controversial as the fuel filter debate, but now that Mack has called off the jam, it's all we've got for the moment. I've taken care of fuel and air filtration upgrades. Now, I'd like to focus on an oil bypass filtration system. I'm just not comfortable, even with premium oil, using the factory intervals without supplemental filtration. Most discussions have centered on Amsoil and OilGuard systems. I know of several others, but haven't explored them. Any users out there with enough miles on their setups to give us some real world feedback? Analyses?

TC
 

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I have never had an oil analysis done, but I have and like the dual bt pass that Amway, I mean Amsoil sells. I use Mobil Delvac 1 motor oil and change the primary filter at 5,000 miles and then a complete oil/filter change at 10,000 miles along with a good chassis lube, change the transmission spin on filter, rotate tires, and check all other areas of the truck. I also check oil before I start it up every morning. Maybe I am a little paranoid about my trucks.
 

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George,TC,


I ran the return from my Oil Guard setup to the oil fill cap. It provided very strong and deep threads after drilling and tapping. I also ran the hose through a larger but snug clear vinyl hose for added protection. Wasn't comfortable with running return oil to the pan and I can still use the fomoto valve for draining and sampling. I will take some pics to post in my sig and post the results of my last 3 samples. Two @ 5K and one at 7.5K. The one at 7.5 was just as clean as the 5K samples.Edited by: a bear
 

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MOBIL DELVAC 1 SYNTHETIC 5W-40
MILES ON OIL- 10093
MILES ON ENGINE- 11699

ALUMINUM-----3
CHROMIUM-----0
COPPER------->500

IRON---------9
LEAD---------12
TIN----------7
SILICON------52

POTASSIUM----3
SODIUM-------9
OXIDATION----<2
VISCOSITY----12.6
GLYCOL-------ND
FUEL---------3

TBN----------7.1
NITRATION----16.1
SOOT---------<0.1





I installed the oilguard filter at the time of this change at 1606 miles. I'm pleased with it. When shopping for filters the main thing is to compare the absolute and nominal ratings at the same micron sizes. The oilguard website has information on what to look for and what to avoid with bypass filters.
 

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Other forums speculate the copper leaches out of the oil cooler when new, and the sand is from casting. Hopefully both will come down with age. I need to take it to the dealer for the fuel dilution. I think 3%is too high.
 

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geno said:
GMCDURAMAX


wonder where all the copper and sand came from


Geno




If I were to guess, small traces of casting sand from the manufacturing and normal wear metals from break in.


I did a 500 mile change and frequent ones following that until I settled in at 2500-3000 mile intervels with Dyno oil.


So far no oil comsumption at all.


T
NYEdited by: GMC-2002-Dmax
 

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Regarding your oil analysis results. I am so glad you ran the oil analysis and resulting alert on fuel dilution. 3% is significant indeed and I would schedule for dealer check asap. A bad injector flows liquid fuel which in turn can wash down a cylinder causing greatly acceleratedd wear on the cyolinder(s) affected by the bad injector(s). This is why it is so important to run at least an occasional oil analysis with our Duramax engines in that a single bad injecftor can go un-noticed yet cause excessive wear rates and possible damage over time. The reported silicon is probably not sand but is the chemical definition of "dirt". Yes, there was most likely some casting sand left in the engine cavities but the high number is relative to all dirt. I would check the induction system for leaks and the integrity/status of the air filter. (Hopefully it isn't a K&N)
And yes, our Duramax engines do have a signature higher copper than a Brand F or D, but I have found many Japanese designed engines with the same signature elevated copper yet carry that high copper through to an overhaul at what would be the equivalent of nearly 3,000,000 miles! i.e. incredibly long life.. And on teardown of the engines, certainly the innards were highly worn but bearings in particular still had life left and showed no signs of accerated bearing wear. (copper) And the same is true for high mileage Duramax engines.. They look great on teardown. From my experience, low double digit is nothing to be concerned with; high double digit copper with associated double digit silicon (dirt), however, is something to monitor on follow on analysis results..
George MorrisonEdited by: Georgecls
 

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Big Dipper,


Sorry about that! Didn't see any replies and thought interest fell. Heres the oil analysis reports W/ the Oil Guard Filter. I'll get the pics later today.


Chevron Delo 400, Chevron Delo 400, Mobile Delvac 1300
3/31/03 5/31/03 8/14/03
4931 Mi. 5380 Mi 7580 Mi
CU - 11 CU - 9 CU - 9
FE - 5 FE - 6 FE - 4
CR - 0 CR - 0 CR - 1
PB - 3 PB - 5 PB - 3
AL - 3 AL - 3 AL - 4
SI - 9 SI - 12 SI - 8
MO - 0 MO - 1 MO - 38
NA - 6 NA - 5 NA - 7
SN - 3 SN - 4 SN - 0
CA - 3600 CA - 4090 CA - 3150
MG - 17 MG - 37 MG - 408
P - 1240 P - 1380 P - 1360
ZN - 1340 ZN - 1600 ZN - 1530
W - Neg W - Neg W - Neg
 

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That high copper is most likely from the thrust bearing. Since we have more power than brand F & D it just stands to reason.
Edited by: Frank Blum
 

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a bear,


Do you think theres any problem with returning the oil through the filler tube? I was also considering that but was afraid it might end up causing problems with the crank or pistons if it got thrown around (like the reasons for using a windage tray).
 

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Dave,


It's not a problem. The oil returns very slow through a 40/1000" orfice which is @ the filter outlet. I watched the oil flow(at the cap) while the engine was running and the stream is very small w/o pressure. If I had to guess the stream is about 1/8" in diameter. It slowly runs down the side of the tube.


BIG DIPPER,


Finally got your pics loaded. Copy and paste the below link then there is a pic of the return line in the coolant filter install pics and the Oil Guard install pics. Hope it works.
 
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