Diesel Place banner

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,004 Posts
I don't know why they can't harden the metal around the pin. If you're a cheap bastard you might run some weld in there and grind it round using the pin as a guide. I did that. Wasn't too bad of a job if you are quick with the stick.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TiredFarmer

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Made in USA.

SBB
 

·
Bac To The Future
Joined
·
23,029 Posts
Many, many of us have gone thru the whole "OEM hitch isnt class 5" thing. I bent mine sledpulling one year. Meh.
Bent, broke, rusted, not heavy duty enough....whatever.....just replace it with a better one (I personally have a Curt) and be on your merry way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,032 Posts
I am going to resurrect this thread rather than start a new one ... forgive me, but this old thread has merit still ...

My factory hitch is rusted badly. I looked into fixing it (media blasting and then powder-coating) but it's going to be $160 for this route, with me doing the "upgrades" of adding strength. I was going to have it blasted, then I'd take it home to weld up weak areas and add gussets, and then take it for p-paint. Upside to this that I know I'll do a good job in the work and the local powder-paint place is well respected. The quality should be good overall.

Options:

Curt (#15400)
only lists "cab and chassis" hitches for my rig currently on their site. I'm not sure this is the correct frame because my truck is not cab/chassis version. Additionally, their two hitches must be drilled to mount. Didn't really want that extra work. Plus this will hang down pretty far, as it looks from pix; a bit gawdy.

Draw-Tite/Reese/HiddenHitch, etc (#41944)
All owned by same company
They do offer a couple of true bolt on units, with 16k tow and 1.6k tw. Powder-coated at factory. Not bad. Can be had for $150 on ebay includes shipping. They don't have a provision for the electrical harness socket mount, as best I can tell. Fully welded. Decent brands that are well known.

B&W (#HDRH25189)
Also offers a bolt on rig; same 16k tow / 1.6k tw ratings. Powder-coated. The kit does include an accessory mount for the electrical socket for the harness. It bolts together, but does have the same rating. Well known brand.
Also on Ebay for $150 including shipping.


I do not tow super heavy; probably the most I'll pull would be 10k pounds with my trailer/Kubota load. My RV weighs less than that. The truck gross trailer limit is 12k pounds, so the DT and B&W are well over-rated for my application at 16k tow / 1.6 tw.

Also, the OEM GM hitch uses the bumper as an integral load carrying point, whereas the aftermarket units simply use the frame only. Can anyone thinks of a pro/con either way here? I don't know that it really matters overall.

Anyone use either the Reese/DT or B&W brands? Looking for input. How's the quality in the real world; do they measure up to their advertising?

Any other brands to consider?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I am going to resurrect this thread rather than start a new one ... forgive me, but this old thread has merit still ...

My factory hitch is rusted badly. I looked into fixing it (media blasting and then powder-coating) but it's going to be $160 for this route, with me doing the "upgrades" of adding strength. I was going to have it blasted, then I'd take it home to weld up weak areas and add gussets, and then take it for p-paint. Upside to this that I know I'll do a good job in the work and the local powder-paint place is well respected. The quality should be good overall.

Options:

Curt (#15400)
only lists "cab and chassis" hitches for my rig currently on their site. I'm not sure this is the correct frame because my truck is not cab/chassis version. Additionally, their two hitches must be drilled to mount. Didn't really want that extra work. Plus this will hang down pretty far, as it looks from pix; a bit gawdy.

Draw-Tite/Reese/HiddenHitch, etc (#41944)
All owned by same company
They do offer a couple of true bolt on units, with 16k tow and 1.6k tw. Powder-coated at factory. Not bad. Can be had for $150 on ebay includes shipping. They don't have a provision for the electrical harness socket mount, as best I can tell. Fully welded. Decent brands that are well known.

B&W (#HDRH25189)
Also offers a bolt on rig; same 16k tow / 1.6k tw ratings. Powder-coated. The kit does include an accessory mount for the electrical socket for the harness. It bolts together, but does have the same rating. Well known brand.
Also on Ebay for $150 including shipping.


I do not tow super heavy; probably the most I'll pull would be 10k pounds with my trailer/Kubota load. My RV weighs less than that. The truck gross trailer limit is 12k pounds, so the DT and B&W are well over-rated for my application at 16k tow / 1.6 tw.

Also, the OEM GM hitch uses the bumper as an integral load carrying point, whereas the aftermarket units simply use the frame only. Can anyone thinks of a pro/con either way here? I don't know that it really matters overall.

Anyone use either the Reese/DT or B&W brands? Looking for input. How's the quality in the real world; do they measure up to their advertising?

Any other brands to consider?
Check out the TorkLift SuperHitch. Very heavy duty, but more expensive also. Used by many truck camper owners that have hitch extensions to clear the back of the large slide in campers.

Rich
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,032 Posts
Torklift is $593 on ebay. Don't think so; that's ridiculous.


I took the OEM hitch to the sand-blaster today and we looked it over together. The general feeling we both have is that there is too much risk repairing this one. If he blasts it enough to get a thorough cleaning job, there are many areas that may be at risk of being too thin. What a total POS. However that is right in line with all the other crap on this truck that has rusted to a point of needing replacement (brake lines, tranny lines, fuel lines and cooler ...).


I am trying to decide between the B&M and the Draw-Tite.
Anyone got direct ownership or know someone who does?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
I replaced mine so long ago that I honestly don't recall what brand it is. Other than the increased weight rating the aftermarket hitch had a better finish on it. It was decidedly heavier gauge steel and did not use the bumper as a structural component. The side plates that bolt to the frame were thicker, wider and extended further forward than the stock hitch, this reduced flexing when the weight distributing bars were torqued down and actually gave a better ride with the trailer since the weight that transferred to the front wheels was more consistent because the hitch wasn't twisting as the load changed. I know I bought it on Etrailer and my recollection is that it wasn't much over $200
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,032 Posts
I just bought one at ... WALMART!

I got the Draw-Tite #41944 for $133+tax
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Draw-Tite-41944-Ultra-Frame-Receiver-44.-75-x-28.-25-x-8-inch/35530111
I narrowed it down to the B&W and DrawTite. Both were available at W/M, but the D-T was cheaper. I watched some 'tube vidoes on the installations and they both seemed well made and far better than the OEM unit.

For reference, the B&W was $154+tax, so the DrawTite was about $24 cheaper, for a hitch with the same haul and tongue ratings! (16k and 1.6k) It's a good unit too, but why spend the extra money for exact same load ratings?

I just cannot beat that W/M price, and the shipping is free to the store! Store is right on my way home. Actually cheaper at W/M with free pick-up ($142 with tax) than Ebay with free shipping ($149).

I recently bought my AC/Delco replacement tranny lines from Walmart also; best price and free shipping to store. Got a replacement GM door speaker also. It's getting too darn easy to shop Wally-world online and pick up stuff with no shipping costs!


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
Comes complete with rusting to crap in 5 years as well as twisting and what ever else it does. Curt or even Reese Class 5 will get you all fixed up. Only problem is cutting of the 7 pin connector. You can get it welded to the new hitch if you like.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TiredFarmer

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,740 Posts
the real problem is,look at how all these mounts bolt to the truck,on the bottom of the frame rails,,they need to be bolted top and bottom and thru the sides too
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,032 Posts
Comes complete with rusting to crap in 5 years as well as twisting and what ever else it does. Curt or even Reese Class 5 will get you all fixed up. Only problem is cutting of the 7 pin connector. You can get it welded to the new hitch if you like.
Not sure which Curt hitch you are referring to. I could not find one for my direct application; they only referenced the cab/chassis when I put in my truck info. Also, the two they did offer, while very beefy, were needing to have the truck frame drilled; pita and not necessary. So I excluded Curt for these reasons. I'm not saying it's a bad hitch; to the contrary it looks very robust. But why risk a mis-match and/or extra work when other brands offer more for less?

Also, like I said, B&W has a good product too. Simple bolt-on and very good ratings. But it was more than the DT I bought. Why pay more for the same features and capacity?

So I bought the Draw-Tite #41944.


BTW, Reese and Draw-Tite are the same company; offer the same stuff with different brand names but same parent company. (Think of GMC and Chevy trucks ... both same GM design with different cosmetic items).
Draw-Tite
Reese
Heck, even the websites are identical, except for some name branding. They both refer to the same catalog!

Here is the DT webpage for my application:
Draw-Tite - Class V Trailer Hitch
Here is the Reese webpage for my application:
http://www.reeseprod.com/products/trailer-hitches/class-v-2-receiver/class-v-trailer-hitch/WfzaCtfZMf3G!LK33sUeVGgCtjJ4lhFW
Note how the webpages start from different sites but end on the same product! Reese/DT are the same product. I got hitch #41944 from their "Ultra-Frame" series. Class V rated at 16k pounds; far more than I'd tow and more than the truck is "rated" for anyway.


As for the electrical connector, I emailed them and asked if it was OK to weld the mount to the hitch frame and they said it would void the lifetime warranty. Rather, I just cut the bracket off the OEM GM hitch, welded that to some angle iron, and then bolted that above the new hitch in the existing OEM bumper holes. Viola!



.
 

·
Gone but not forgotten member
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
Longbeds and shortbeds have a different bolt patterns for the hitch, so be sure which one you purchase otherwise you might be drilling some holes....:shake:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
611 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
I did replace the hitch with the curt 15312 16k hitch and sure is nice heavy duty hitch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I put the curt 15703 commercial hitch on mine last week. Makes the stock hitch look like a toy. 18,000 lb with no wieght disb needed. Bolted on in 20 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Forgot to say the stock hitch on mine was a class 5 and used the 2.5 square. A reducer sleeve came with the hitch.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
231 Posts
Any tips on drilling the frame for the Curt Class 5?

No, I don't have a lift! It'll be done in my driveway... if that's possible: upside down and thru-bolted.

Would a benchtop drillpress be useful if inverted? Carbide tipped bit suggested?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,223 Posts
Any tips on drilling the frame for the Curt Class 5?

No, I don't have a lift! It'll be done in my driveway... if that's possible: upside down and thru-bolted.

Would a benchtop drillpress be useful if inverted? Carbide tipped bit suggested?
I didn't have to drill any holes when I installed my Curt Commercial Class 5 Hitch. I used existing holes in the frame.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
159 Posts
I'd like to replace my hitch with a USA made Class 5 that has a 3" square. Any recomendations?
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top