Diesel Place banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,
I have posted some threads and still need help. I have the truck in my sig and due to clearance with the 5th wheel, added lowering shackles. I got the 1 inch I was looking for but the overloads were on the stops in the back all the time. I'm thinking I'll replace the factory blocks with 1" blocks under the overload springs to get clearance again for the springs since air bags are not in the budget yet. I have a trip with the camper planned from Missouri to Texas in a couple weeks. The questions are can I leave the front overload stops on the truck? I took off the back ones and the camper lowers the truck 2 1/4 inches of which the last 1" is on the overloads. The camper is about 11000lbs and the pin weight around 2200(?) or so. Should I take off the front overload stops and run on just the main springs? My old 2500HD handled the weight fine, just not the puilling part.
I don't want to hurt the truck with just the front stops but need to have enough spring for the trip to TX coming up.
Thanks for the advice.
Marc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
Why not lift the 5th wheel and leave the truck alone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Dezl,
Thanks for the reply but no thanks. The camper has the spring up on the axel now. The problems with raising the camper that come to mind right away are increased wind resistance, less stability, height issues when we are almost 12 feet now and even little things like the step being too far off the ground for old folks like us. Lowering the back of the truck seems to be the best thing for us.
Thanks,
Marc
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,432 Posts
Hi Marc,
What you are facing is a normal issue with 3500HD Dually's when you drop the rear end by lowing shackles. The rear suspension is designed around the spring rate interacting with the frame stop pads and the 1" drop has of course shortened that distance. If you ask my suggestion would be to 100% go helper bags. But if I am reading your post correct you are thinking of adding a 1" block to help, why not remove the shackles?

As for your statement about handling after ride height higher with the large 5er, if you dial in the stance of the truck and trailer you will not see a tracking issue. I had my rig lifted and the trailer, all was perfect tip to tip on truck and trailer and it railed hauling down the highway. When you run with a noise high trailer you decrease the front axle weight and move more weight to the rear axles and that increase how off balance the weight of the trailer moves around out side of the design of how the trailer leafs are designed to distribute the weight, this is the common popussing of truck and trailer or fish tailing down the highway.

If budget is key right now I would suggest some home work of measuring out the truck wheel well lip at center of axle front and rear and then connecting everything as if you are hauling and see what happens with the trucks specs and see how your trailer sits front to rear. We are looking for the difference needed to make the trailer match front to rear to insure weight is over the axles, pending that and what happens to the trucks stance will determan my over all suggestion for solution.

It's been very busy over here but I will try and keep a eye on your thread to see what you come up with to further help you.


Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Nick,
Thanks for the help. I'll get a good look and take measurements with the hook up soon. I agree that the whole rig needs to be level with the right amount of bed clearance also.
I understand about being busy and will keep this thread current as time allows.
As the budget allows, I will ask your recomendations for which parts to buy and work my way into a "complete package".
Thanks again,
Marc
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top