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No Start, No WTS light�.It IS the grounds!

44K views 27 replies 18 participants last post by  old skool luvr 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
No Start, No WTS light….It IS the grounds!

...and details on my Ignition Switch replacement and removal of aftermarket security system

It’s been weeks not able to start truck. I’ve been here reading, and on the weekends applying what I’ve learned from this forum to my 97’ K3500.
Cleaning/ Replacing Grounds fixed the problem!

Repair Details

97’ GMC K3500 With “NO START”


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From from diagnostic table
1. Does the engine Turn over? YES
1a. Does the engine start? NO
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & duration lit? NO

-There were no blown fuses.
-The ECT temp sensors measured good at 3.6k on a 65degF day. (Reference table lists 3520ohms at 68F)

Now I know the PCM is NOT getting power (or gnd). A second indicator was the Code reader, which was not able to establish contact with PCM.

CLEAN /REPLACE GROUNDS
-The battery connections were in bad shape



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Grounds were next. The aux gnd to eng had to be replaced


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Aux Gnd After repair/ cleaning


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Rear Engine GND Before cleaning


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And After (but before tightening). Can be done with out removing trans check/fill tube.


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and finally engine to frame ground was cleaned on the right passenger side rear of engine. I took the right rubber fender shield off to get at /find it.



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That really would have done it.....but because I had changed the ignition switch first, the aftermarket security system needed to be reconnected OR removed.

REMOVE IGINITION KILL (from previous owner aftermarket security system)
-The security system was removed and easy to see how it works by removing glove compartment door and see the break in the 2 ign (pink) wire off of the PCM.

Security Keypad



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Ign Kill reconnected (C-clamp on button to keep light off)



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-BEFORE cleaning gnds I decided to change ignition switch. At the time I figured IGN had to be the problem. I found changing ign switch EASIER than it was to find, clean, and repair all the grounds! BUT it didn’t fix the problem (actually caused another problem with security system) it cost $125 but I'm glad to have a NEW one in there given the contact design and significance this switch plays in circuit. I also knew that some day my 2 year old was going to push the right combination of buttons on the keypad to activate security, and I’m not sure how to enter the code (even though previous. owner has code written on visor).

REPLACING IGNITION SWITCH
New ignition switch



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Removing bottom cover torx screws from steering wheel



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Tilt lever pulls right out



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Ignition switch shown with bottom cover removed



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Sliding Allen Wrench Under Top Cover To Pop Key cylinder out



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Key cylinder out to remove top cover



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process shown with top cover removed for detail

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-I didn’t have and external torx socket, but was able to improvise by using a ¼” drive sockets for the screw holding top cover
Figure 5/32” deep socket on external torx



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Using 5/32” socket on external torx to remove top cover



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and a #6 cap head screw in vise grips to remove the ignition switch screws (longer ~2” would have worked even better, to give more turning room)


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Bought a external torx set a autoparts store, but still had to use #6 screw since the set didn’t go down that small in size.

Many thanks to the Diesel Place’s 6.5L moderators, knkreb, Turbine Doc, and gmctd. As well as the good advice from many others.
-lcgarage
 
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19
#2 ·
Excellent post, dude - show 'n' tell rules...............

Nice truck.
 
#3 ·
Nice pics. Great show and tell
Yea looks like the grounds did need some cleaning.
 
#4 ·
Thanks, don't know why all the extra repeated line show up "(imagage has been resized)" and "A<href....".

I forgot to include this V+ connection from eng mounted fuse box. This one looked bad from the outside, but when took it apart and looked at terminal surface they where clean and appeared to be Silver plated, so I just put back as is.


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The mice had been busy too! packing seat foam in cab distribution box


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and around temp sensor


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I also think they ATE through this cheese flavored +12V orange wire to fog light, but I really hope not.


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There gone for now, I installed a NEW security system (3 KIA's).

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But don't plan on telling wife about this one.
 
#5 ·
Did you think to check main fuse panel...

(sorry.. if i missed it.)

ECM 1 and 2..
please excuse if i missed it.. I know how annoying that can be but I'm in a hurry and did not have time go over what is a very detailed post...

if it is.. then could be glow circuit or the ECM (glow circuit will thrown and ECM fuse 1 i believe!

Wayne
 
#7 ·
Just don't get into your truck barefoot!:) Excellent series of pictures. Very informative.
 
#8 ·
I feel like an idiot!!!

"cleaning grounds fixed the problem..."

How on earth did I miss that... in bold even!!!

my apologies for doing the exact thing i complain about.. not reading the post all the way (or skipping the first lines and browsing through it.

nice job!

Wayne
 
#9 ·
Holy Cow.......great job!!!

I had my column apart a few weeks ago and could not get that key cylinder out. You used an allen key huh? So what was the trick? I really would like to know.

Anyways, guys like you are what makes this an excellent place.:)
Thanks.
 
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#10 ·
Thx! Big credit to moderators, knkreb, Turbine Doc, and gmctd. I'm just the color guy.

This is how I removed key cyc. You may have to pull on key cyc at same time. The manual says to us a 90deg pick.
 
#12 ·
lcgarage;1779737; said:
Thx! Big credit to moderators, knkreb, Turbine Doc, and gmctd. I'm just the color guy.

This is how I removed key cyc. You may have to pull on key cyc at same time. The manual says to us a 90deg pick.


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Now, did you do it while the key was in the off position or what position? I was told that it matters what position it's in.


Thanks.
 
#15 ·
I had the same exact problem, NO wts light....Just crank, NO start......Once the wts light even just FLASHED on for a 1/8 of a second ......The truck would start right up. Also did you ever experience driving and the truck just turn off?........or driving fine all day then you park and when you come back ......NO wts , NO start. Did the truck ever through any codes?

GMCTD Called my problem from the begining .......GROUNDS....boy was he right.
Also some guys expierenced same problem and a new ignition switch solved it........something about bad contacts, I'm sure you read it..........all the mods and a lot of these guys really know these motors.
thanksfor the GREAT pics

Louis
 
#16 ·
See there folks, you too can do it. Lc is now linked in about 6 different places via the diagnostic checklist and FAQ's. Anyone ever puts together good write ups, can be found in our reference material and stickies. Good work, keep 'em comin'.
 
#18 ·
Here was the dash light inicators shown as soon as key was turned to run BEFORE and AFTER my "NO Start" condition. Second photo does not show WIF (Water In Fuel) light BUT it did come on at 1st key to run.


And light/ locations from owners manul for a sanity check!
 
#20 ·
#21 ·
Pictures?

Where did all the pictures go? All I see is the same cat over and over again.
 
#24 ·
Where did all the pictures go? All I see is the same cat over and over again.
Sounds like when im trying to sleep. Fling that cat clear across and wake up with that damm thing purring on my chest.
 
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#23 ·
See post #19 and open the PDF file.
 
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#27 ·
When you look at Figure #3 on the PDF.

You can cut that circular part of the rubber/plastic on the terminal end.
Keep the rubber/plastic at the for insulation before the circular part.

Then wire brush the metal ring inside that rubber from all the green corrosion.
 
#28 ·
Figure #3 (on the 4th page for those looking quickly) is the positive terminal shield, and is actually fairly easy to peel off in one piece & reuse it.
 
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