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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read sev threads about this but I dont think I have the same issue.
Its a 95,A cpl of months back the speeds started acting funny.It would work on the highest setting,but not allways in the lower speeds.Then one day it just quit working on the low setting,but would work on the high setting.Now it doesnt work at all.I can hear the relays clicking when changing to high speed,but no motor..I traced the wires down,and Im getting 12v at the wire that goes to the motor.BUT only on HIGH.If i put the switch at the lower speeds there is now Voltage at the motor...Im thinking maybe the Resistor pack burned out,the after leaving on high so long the motor took a dump????

Any thoughts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I forgot to mention that when the motor stopped working that I could kick the box and it would come one,Now that doesnt even work.
 

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It would be the resistor. I think it is located behind the glovebox on a 95.
 

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I believe that even if the resistor was shot........it should still work on high. At least mine did before I replaced it.
My blower motor went shot and that is what caused my resistor to burn out. It's a cheap fix, but a pain in the $ss to do the change over. If the motor needs to be replaced, continue with the thread and you will get plenty of help with how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How important is that Plastic rubbery cover????
Seems like it would be a pain in the *** to remove and install...


So are there any tricks to replacing the motor?
 

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hahahaha....that friggen cover is just the start of your problem when removing the blower motor lol.
Are you replacing the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thinking about it...I thought about running a wire straight from the batt to the motor just to make sure.Where is the motor grounded at? Is it through the base of through a wire?


I do know that when I put my Volt Meter on the wire going to the motor I get 12v when set to high and nothing when set to the other speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok...well while waiting for my son to come out of school,I put the switch on high and started wacking the motor with a big set of pliar's.The motor started turning and I could feel heat comming froom the vents.However it would soon slow back down to a stop.It did kinda sound like something was in there. Im thinking maybe a plastic grocery bag may have been sucked up in there and is not wrapped around the shaft.Even when I had it turning today,as soon as i put it to any speed but high it stopped completely,then I would put it back on high and whack untill it started turning.It would turn about as fast as it normally would on the lowest setting./
 

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If you want the blower to work.......better have a blower and resistor lined up. I'm thinking you need both.
If you want to tackle the job, it makes life a whole lot better removing the pass. seat. It may be time to vacuum under it anyways lol. I would grease the tracking anyways if it is removed. Is it an ext.cab?

My GM blower motor went 10 years before the bearings went south and it started to hummmmmmm bad. Then it started to vibrate bad. Then the whole turbine (fan) pulled out of the case. shot. :eek:
 

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Sounds exactly like what my 94 was doing. The motor wouldn't turn on, and if I kicked it just right it would come on high. After awhile it would start slowing down and eventually stop until I kicked it again. It got to the point where every passenger knew the "kick procedure". After a year, it just stopped altogether. I put a new motor in, and everything worked fine. I never changed the resistor pack. And everyone is right, it is a frustrating job to change.
 

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The loss of the speeds would be the resistor which works on the negative side of the motor meaning the motor has constant power. These are a common problem, but not the motor itself. You may have a mouse nest in the vanes of the blower, Might better remove the motor and have a look, this may also be the reason why the resistor is giving out also. The extra load on the motor is causing the resistor to get hotter than normal causing it to short out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've read several posts a well as several threads about how hard changing the blower motor was...WHY??
I used an exacto knife and cut a line along the very top of the plastic cover-1min
Pulled the motor out with NO problems at all-5min
Called autozone and found the motor and the cage for $29.99
replaced motor-5min
used 3m double sided tape on lastic cover.
So all in all it took about 30 min and most of that was the driving to get the motor.You cant even tell the cover had been removed.
I know have ALL speeds back..I didnt even have to replace the resistor pack.Im kinda surprised at that because I left the switch on MED for about 3 months straight..
 
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