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Discussion Starter #1
The nicktane kit looks pretty nice. I have a couple of questions.

1. Do you get soaked in diesel each time you change the filter?
2. Does the tank try to empty itself when you remove the filter?
3. How many miles are the filters good for?
4. Are any OEM fuel lines cut or ruined? (warranty issues)
5. Are there any problems with needing to bleed the system every few days?
6. Is the fuel pump able to suck through the filter easily without sacrificing the reliability of the pump?
7. Does the filter kit cause any no starts or looses its "prime"?

I will probably have more questions later.

Thanks!
 

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Well, I have had the kit installed for a couple of weeks now, so here goes....


1. Don't believe so...have not had to replace it, but from the position, and lack of leakage when installing, I will venture a probable no.


2. Doubt it...others with more experience will chime in I'm sure.


3. I plan on replacing every 10k or so. Probably being agressive here, but cheap insurance imho.


4. No lines are cut. One OEM line is removed, which goes from the tank outlet to the fuel cooler.


5. No bleeding so far, starts great every time.


6. I would assume so, since it is running like a charm.


7. Nope. Only have to prime it during the install of the kit.


On a side note, I notice it is quieter, especially at idle, runs smoother and has a bit more pep. Lovin it so far!



JohnEdited by: CS-Dmax
 

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I fully agree with CS-DMAXs assessment of the Nicktane kit. I am defineltly happy with the results (I haven't changed mine yet either)


 

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I am totally happy with Nick's CAT filter installation he did for me. I've had mine for 6 weeks (2400 miles) with absolutely no problems.
 

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to question #2 - no it shouldn't matter. the filter head is a bit higher than the fuel will be even if the tank is full. if you're worried just make sure you tank is slightly less than full.


I'm glad you guys are happy!
 

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I hate to be the first person to have to report this, but I got some air into the system with my Nicktane kit and had to bleed the system. This after 2,000 trouble free miles with the kit installed.

There is an unusual circumstance, however ... the air episode occurred immediately after pressure washing the underside of the truck thooughly (I did not pressure wash the engine compartment). Basically, I pressure washed it, started the truck, it ran for maybe 10 seconds and died. Initially, I thought perhaps it wasn't air, because an awful lot of air free fuel came out the bleeder port. But with enough pumping, I got air bubbles and foamy fuel and then pure fuel again and finally the truck started. I've run it a couple hundred miles since then with no issues.

How in the world pressure washing could've caused it, I don't know, I'm just reporting what happened. All connections are tight and the filter is tight.

I like the kit and I certainly have no plans to remove it over this incident, but I'll be watching it.
 

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ICKY!!! I didn't want to hear that!! My kit should be in soon, hoping to install it this weekend.


Regardless, thanks for the heads up.


Bob
 

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I too was concerned about cutting or sawing OEM fuel lines as I get the willies imagining fuel particles heading toward the injectors. Hopefully those folks installing post of the OEM fuel filter are being very careful. For me (warranty), pre-OEM while removing fuel lines seems to be the only way to go.
 

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I've had mine Since mid-July and have about 2,200 miles on it. Not a single problem despite the searing heat we've experienced this summer. I have no explanations for ZFMAX's air issues, but they don't seem characteristic of this setup.

TC
 

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Ray403Dmax


I'm pretty sure those of use with post oem filters have no concerns for particles from cutting lines. There are no lines cut to install JK's kit and I'm sure the other guys doing posts aren't cutting lines either. There are rubber hoses with clamps under the hood that are changed to install the kits.
 

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Hi FirstDiesel,


That's good news. I am only beginning to serious consider fuel filter options so I appreciate you clearing that up.
 

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When running a frame rail mounted filter it would probably be a good idea to change the element quite often as when restriction forms 11 end connections not counting the EDU banjo fittings will be taken beyond their normal operating vac resulting in more vapors pulled out of solution and more holding demand on the connections.
 

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Is there an option for Pre and Post Nicktane kit install? If so, what are the advantages/disadvantages?


Is there any concern for the outside metal surface of the big Cat filter excessively cooling the fuel during cold months of winter? My intitial thought was a larger external surface area combined with slower fuel filter flow could cause more chill time.
 

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Ray403Dmax said:
. . . . . . . .


Is there any concern for the outside metal surface of the big Cat filter excessively cooling the fuel during cold months of winter? My intitial thought was a larger external surface area combined with slower fuel filter flow could cause more chill time.

Fail to see this as a show stopper. Perhaps not living in real cold climate I may be missing something. If this were my concern, my first step would be to look at how to apply insulation to it.
 

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If that were the case (surface area being a problem), then I would think that the fuel that sits in the fuel cooler overnight when very cold would be just as much a problem...right?


John
 

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Yea, but the fuel in the fuel cooler is being returned to the tank not going out.
 

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Yep, your right! My bad.


John
 

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Truth is nobody knows at which point the diesel will freeze. i've talked to cat, and they don't run a heater on their rigs. from what i understand the medium's constructions should help prevent it from gelling. If you want to be absolutely sure, run a good additive like primrose 409. that coupled with winter fuel will give you more than piece of mind..


FWIW, i'm not going to run a heater as i want to see if i can get it to freeze. the coldest i'll probably be able to get is about 5 *F. however i WON'T be running winter fuel so this should be a great test.
 

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If your not running any form of winter diesel, just straight #2 your fuel filter will clog. Been there with an old VW Diesel. A couple of disclaimers here though. If your running before it get's cold you'll be OK as long as you don't shut down as your heating the fuel by re-circulating it. Most suppliers will treat their fuel without your knowing it, I'm sure you've noticed fuel mileage drop in winter about the same time the prices increase
. Even if it clogs it's not terminal, treat the fuel, change the element and drive on.


IMHO we should be treating the fuel any way, winter and summer, and as you said that will in itself provide protection.
 

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I've never had a problem with diesel fuel "gelling". I have 2 diesel farm tractors, and we use them all winter. We buy bulk premium "Diesel-X" from the farm coop, and have never had a problem in over 20 years.
 
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