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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,


New to this site and new to the diesel phenomenon, I got my gmc 2 months ago and love it..a couple questions.


Ive been reading a lot about adding another fuel filter, and Im leaning toward the nicktane setup, my question is, will there be a 2 micron filter available that will fit into the exsisting filter housing. If so, will a single 2 micron filter be enough? judging by how quick aftermarket manufacturers jump on the bandwagon, I assume one should be available soon.


How does Power service fuel additive standup? Its what I am using now, any recomendations?


Ive read on some other sites about changing the rear axle fluid right away, what are the reasons for this? Do I need to add a friction modifier?


Are there any problems with adding a standard K N air filter?


Thanks guys,
 

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I can't answer all your questions, but I can take a stab at one or two.


I don't believe there is any other filter available for the OEM fitting at this time. I have read other threads about this topic, but the conscenus was that there was not one.


On the fuel additives, I would suggest a search on the forum. There is a good thread going (in the duramax forum, I believe) about additives. There seems to be two schools of thought, specificially about how the additive handles water that may be in the fuel. To summarize, GM recommends that if you want to use an additive, use one that de-emulsifies the water (causes it to coagulate into bigger droplets), so the filter apparently can handle it. Others recommend using a emulsifier that basically surrounds any entrained water that is there, within reason, so that it passes though the system and does not collect and cause corrosion.


I don't pretend to know enough about this to make a recommendation. Do a search, read up on it, and decide for yourself.


As an aside, I personally started out using Stanadyne, have decided that the emulsify solution makes more sense to me, and am switching to FPPF Total Power. I am also adding secondary filtration, with the Nictane pre-oem CAT filter system. It may not prove to be the best path, but to each his/her own!


John


BTW, if I got any of this wrong, I take no responsibility for it as I was probably having a senior moment while typing!
 

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Oh, I forgot to ask on the previous post...where abouts in Colorado do you live. There are a couple of us on the board that are also from Colorado....maybe we need to setup a Duramax get together just like all the east coast, stripe-laying floggers! Hehehehe



Actually, I am still dreaming of those days. My DMAX is still pretty stock, but I am getting there!
 

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I live in Golden, Coors county. Probably shouldnt have said that, im sure ill get a beatin from the bud guys. BTW where do you get your FPPF from, ive been all around looking for it. cant find a supplier.Edited by: ROCKYMTNDMAX
 

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Joe, I buy my fppf total power and cetane boster at Colorado Kenworth, 7007 Sandown Rd., out by the old airport.


I changed my rear dif after towing about 500mi, 2500mi on the truck. It's synthetic, had the dealer do it.


SteveEdited by: fishdmax
 

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whats the reason for changing the diff oil so soon?, all of the other vehicles ive had i have never done this. and I never had any problems. Oh and thanks for the info fish!Edited by: ROCKYMTNDMAX
 

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ROCKYMTNDMAX - you will see a lot of the people around here recommend changing it after 500 miles of towing.
 

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I replaced my rear diff. after 500 miles mainly because everyone in the forums told me to.



I'm glad I did because there was a lot of metal flakes in the fluid.


Make sure and plug your nose when you change it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Probably smells like my first oil change using rotella T.
 

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On the diff fluid. I believe the owners manual says to change it after the first 500 miles of towing. That is the only time that I recall that it says to do so.


Tom
 

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Tom,

I don't think the '03 manuals recommend changing rear end grease after 500 miles of towing. It doesn't recommend against it either. Regardless, the experience of a lot of owners, including mine suggests that it is a good idea, if not at 500 miles, then fairly soon after.

TC
 

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On the 2um filter addition first you must choice pre or aft OEM filter ...


There are pros and cons to each .... Biggest problem with aft is mounting location ... There is no filter exposed on the market that will mount in the OEM position either...


Pre there is a hole host of mounting areas down on the frame rail to in the rear fender well area ...


Either way, which ever system you decide to use the sooner the better, as it has been discovered US fuel is dirty and the stock 5um or worse filter is doing an inadequate job ... Cleaner fuel is the result regardless of system in the end ...


Good luck


Mac


Edited by: Mackin
 
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