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Just bought a new to me used chevy 3500hd. Has the 6.5 turbo in it. A few questions. It smokes alot when under hard acceleration and skips once and a while take my foot out of it and it resests itself and is able to get up and go again. I tried opening the bleeder and no diesel came out the truck just stalled so i am assuming that it is the fuel pump. Other than that i love the truck so far. It is an old mass highway truck with central hydraulics. I am having trouble regarding the HD. I have found a ton on the one ton but none on the 3500hd Any help would be greatful. thanks Edited by: ACESTUMP
 

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Only difference is the solid front axle, leaf springs and 19.5" wheels.


Makes a good starting point for four wheel drive, as the spings and steering are already done for the Dana 60.


But, everything else, use the 2500\3500 info - engine, EFI, PCM, trans, differential, driveshafts, etc.


FYI - it was a setup for Caterpillar 6-cylinder Diesel, to take the extra weight.


Change the fuel filter(s) and air filter first, then check the electric lift pump operation.


Then, clean all the stuff from between the radiator and the ac condensor coil, and the oil cooler. Bad areas for leaves and junk.Edited by: gmctd
 

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Thanks I am actually going to do that this weekend. So everyhting is the same as a oneton. That makes me feel good. When is sputters the service engine soon light blinks at me. thanks again


alex
 

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I have a stupid question. Where is the oil pressure switch i can't find the damn thing. thanks again. What is the best way to test to see if that is working properly
 

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Ace, a 'stupid ' question would be the one you did not ask, and it bit you, later....imho


OPS is rear of block, down and to driver's-side of the vee. It's fairly big - 3"L x 1"dia.


Check pin G of the ALDL - engine idling - for 12 volts switched to the lift pump by the OPS.


12volts while cranking is thru the lift pump relay.


You can do this with a spare 12v light bulb in a pigtail socket.


No volts, OPS is failed.


Volts, no fuel, probably lift pump..


Light should be steady bright, voltmeter should be steady 12v if all ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well had a chance to work on the truck today. Changed the lift pump, That was junk. the ops switch is good. I am going to replace that though as soon as i get teh wrench. I took off the turbo diesel shield i think i am just going to leave it off. Replaced the fuel filter. Thing was discusting. Replaced the air filter that thing was all gummed up. what is the name of the valve on the valve cover and a tube goes to the turbo and air filter. It is leaking by and letting oil into the turbo and the air box. The only thing is that once and a while the check engine light appears. Let up on the throttle and it goes out. I am only getting one code 78. Have no idea can't find what it is. How do i reset??? again thank you very much any suggestions on power???
 

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To reset your codes just disconnect the battries for a few mins.


Your code 78 is a Wastegate solenoid fault. Don't even bother to troble shoot it just get one of Bill Heaths Torbo Masters and get rid of several GM money maker parks.


If the oil pressure switch checks out OK there is no reason the change it but there is good reason to do a mode on it so it will last forever. The fuel pump draws 4 amps and the switch is designed to carry 1 amp. Look at my web page and you will see a diagram on how to relay the oil pressure switch.
 

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Great ordered the heath part overnighted it. What do i do with the vacum line etc. THe useless parts. And how do you reset the service light. Thank you this is hopefull the last part ineed to replace for a while
 

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Im pretty sure you will lose the line and plug it. howie answered your service light question, he just called it codes. You could also pull your ecm fuses a few min to get rid of the engine codes..
 

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You can send me those so called useless parts, I havn't given up on the vacuum operation of the WG. Don't you have to buy the chip from heath to completely over ride the code 78? Why settle for static boost control, when your ECM is programmed to control this for you on the fly. GM gives a 12/12 on the WG solenoid. The vacuum pump will go for years and the lines are replaceable.
 

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Yes the ECM is programed to control the boost pressure, but like e verthing else GM does it is programed to do just the opposite of what you want. The stock ECM control will give you boost as you attempt to accelerate but will back off on the boost even if the load continuses such as a long hill.


Yes I had a chip and an intercooler in my truck before I installed the Turbo Master and never had a code problem while easily holding 12 lbs of boost, at sea level, under load. Since then I have installed a Turbo Master on a truck without a chip. While total boost is less, 8 lbs., it is better than stock under a sustained load.


Your vacuum line will be blocked off with a small ball.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just got off the phone will Heath's. They stated that i don't have to have a chip i just have to make sure to turn down the boost limiter so the computer doesn't read overboost. I will let you know if anything else happens. They also told me to take the vaccum pump right off and use a belt from a 92 or 93. I will be more than happy to ship those parts to you quantum where do you live
 

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Don't be so hasty to ship that vacuum pump off. If you intend to install an exhaust brake you will need the pump. The rest of it he can have.
 

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Tonight The truck acutally ran like crap. I lost the OPS. I had one but didn't have the socket so i went and bought one. Now everything is fine. But i broke the wastegate vacum line. i don't get turbo master until monday and i need the truck for work. Just used a vacum hose and a t and caps to put it back together for the weekend. The Info you have alll given me has been great the truck runs awsome. THANK YOU.
 
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