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Discussion Starter #21
I have a camping trip planned this next weekend so I put quite a bit of time time working on the truck getting it ready. I was finally able to get the dash put back together which was a good feeling because I was tired of it torn apart.

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I also rotated the tires because I was getting some weird tire wear on the front tires and I didn't want them to go to crap before I replaced some of the suspension parts. While I had them off I noticed there was quite a bit of mud and grime on the inside of the wheels so I turned something simple into a giant fiasco...

I used purple power and a scotch pad to scrub the wheels inside and out. Then I masked them and hit them with a gun metal grey wheel paint. They are rediculously heavy to flip over and move around. I feel like I got my workout for the day.


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Discussion Starter #24
I know I jump around alot but I was finally able to finish up the air intake. I started with a left over air filter from one of the S&B intake kits. The part number I used was KF-1062, It fits but If I had it all over to again I would use a slightly smaller filter for ease of making a filter box.

The inside diameter of the filter was 5.5 which proved difficult to find an adapter for. I found 5" schedule 40 pipe was ~5.5" OD. I cut 1" and welded it to a 4-5" exhaust adapter 41891.

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I wish I could have made all of this from aluminum for its weight and temperature absorbing properties but I don't own a TIG welder. I ordered a PPE weld on MAF adapter # 116454021

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Discussion Starter #25
Then I moved on with the filter box. My main goal was to make sure there was space for a York compressor and obviously try and isolate the filter. I used an old York core as a mock up for the box size.

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To make room for the box I had to flip the intake grid heater 180' degrees. The electrical plug reached fine but I had to solder and extended the big power wire.

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I bolted it to the firewall with two bolts which seem sturdy. I would like to add another support on the drivers side but I'm going to wait to see what I need to do with the compressor bracket first.



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I ended up having to trim the white fiberglass intake hole larger so it would clear the filter and not rub.

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Overall it seems to work/ function fine. I wish it didn't fit as tightly as it did because I had to massage everything around it to make sure nothing was rubbing etc.
 
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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
It seems to run good and responded well to the improvements. On the couple of drives I have taken, the IAT temps have been ~129F. For reference its been around ~110 outside so I'm not sure how that compares to the original OE intake. I wish I would have looked at that before I started this. I may add some of the DEI heat tape to the bottom of the metal box. I think the fact the metal box acts as a heat sink is one of the only downfalls.

I have to get ready to go out of town this weekend but after that I will be working on getting the OBA functional.
 

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FYI.......I've found oiled air filters coat the MAF sensor and require the sensor to be cleaned often.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
FYI.......I've found oiled air filters coat the MAF sensor and require the sensor to be cleaned often.
Thats ok, cleaning the MAF has been part of my maintenance schedule for a long time. My favorite filters are the dry filters such as the AFE pro dry series etc but this filter was free. I'll replace it with a dry filter when the time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
You know the old saying curiousity killed the CAT.... Well not literally but I've been curious to know what the weight on this truck is so I made a trip over to the CAT scales at the Loves truck stop in Chandler. Turns out it weighs ~12k. It was worth the drive to know what the front and rear axle weights were also. I plan on getting the truck reweighed after I find the time to put the 8' bed on it.

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My 2006 weighs in at 11200lbs, I wonder why yours is 800lbs heavier? That includes the 310lbs for the air hitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
My 2006 weighs in at 11200lbs, I wonder why yours is 800lbs heavier? That includes the 310lbs for the air hitch.
My guess is because of the added weight of 4wd and all the iron they used to weld this flatbed. I would love to shave 1000lbs off the weight of the truck if I could. My only apprehension is how rough it rides now, I'm afraid of how stiff the springs would be with less weight on the chassis.
 
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Nice job on the intake - I wonder if some foil insulation either inside or outside of the box would help?

Also, where's the pics showing off the freshly coated wheels?!

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Discussion Starter #33
Nice job on the intake - I wonder if some foil insulation either inside or outside of the box would help?

Also, where's the pics showing off the freshly coated wheels?!
The foil tape is a really good idea, next time I have the box off I'll add some to the underside.

I had to hodge podge some sides on the flat bed to keep all my junk from sliding off this last weekend. It gives me more motivation to get the bed swapped out, as this flat bed is not my cup of tea.

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Discussion Starter #34
One of my initial apprehensions with this new bed is the fact there is a control module for it. Luckily I was able to pull the inside cover off and manually open the tailgate by pulling the two rods.

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I found a picture online of a 2019 silverado with a normal tailgate handle pictured below. It looks like I will be in search of the correct part number for that handle.

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Discussion Starter #35
I ordered the taillight/ tailgate harnesses from my local dealer because they have a 2 week lead time. In the meantime I started pulling off the flatbed and already hit a snag.

It looks like they fabricated the flatbed on the truck. They designed the hitch support around the rear of the frame so I can't just lift the bed off. My first thought was slide the bed back 8" and then lift the bed straight up but the bed won't budge. I hooked up to the bed to another truck but all it did was drag the truck backwards. I'm really hoping they didn't actually weld the flatbed to the frame.

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Plan B is to drop the fuel tank to see if there is a hidden bolt or maybe some weld. Absolutely worst case I'll cut the last 8-10" of frame off since I'm going to cut the frame anyways. Nothing has to be easy....
 

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Before cutting the frame and dropping your tank, how about cutting that bottom plate off?

If it still won come up, and they welded it in position, you may want to take a cutoff wheel to those welds, as they may have penetrated into the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Before cutting the frame and dropping your tank, how about cutting that bottom plate off?

If it still won come up, and they welded it in position, you may want to take a cutoff wheel to those welds, as they may have penetrated into the frame.
I considered cutting that plate but its 1/4- 3/8" and they welded it on the inside too. Inch for inch it would be less grinding/ cutting to just to cut the rear section off. I also don't want to jeopardize the resale value of the flatbed. Hopefully I can stick my head up in there with the fuel tank gone and take a peek at whats really going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Wednesday night I was able to drop the tank and able to get a better look at the rear frame. I'm not sure if they did it inadvertently or on purpose but they welded the rear hitch to the C-channel frame.

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Because of the location I couldn't get a grinder or Sawzall in there to cut the welds so I ended up cutting the last 6-8" off the end of the frame. With as much time as I spent looking for the problem and trying to come up with a solution I should have just cut it from the beginning because it only took ~60 seconds a side with a new metal blade.

My neighbor owns a crane company and is usually very busy but I lucked out last night and he was able to set up and pull the bed off. He has a digital load scale and said the flatbed fluctuated between 2,800- 3,200 while it was swinging in the air. That's heavy!

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Oh man, whoever built that just liked melting metal lol.

Nice work and great to have friends with cool toys!

I'm excited to see the next step!!!
 
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