Diesel Place banner

1 - 20 of 92 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greetings gents. I've been on Diesel Place for a while but usually on the light duty pickup threads. I'd like to contribute to the medium duty side to see if I can help anyone out with my struggles I encounter. I picked up a 2006 Chevy C4500 4x4 last weekend and decided to make a thread about it.

The truck overall is in good condition but it needs some work here and there so I plan on posting that as I go. Also my end goal is to put a normal dually bed on it after I find one clean enough to use that doesn't break the bank.

This is on the way home with the wife's 4runner in tow.
IMG_4226.JPG


On the way back to Phoenix the AC compressor took a dump so the first thing I did Monday was put a compressor, drier, and orifice tube on it.

Orielly Part numbers:
58947 Compressor
70-3788 Drier assy
35974 Compressor switch (located on back of compressor)
38623 Orifice tube

IMG_4274.JPG



The truck has a vibration/noise that comes in at ~51mph and goes away after 55mph. I think its the carrier bearing but I'm going to start replacing the u-joints starting at the intermediate shaft. My truck appears to use a SPL55 u-joint which replaced 1480 size u-joints.

Sandblasted parts:
61530602345__9F329EFF-BA14-4DF9-B082-BFC3F16C5440.JPG


61530744348__FAB6EA5F-7803-484A-8DAA-B3557632A359.JPG


IMG_4272.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Also on my to-do list is change all the fluids. During this I decided to rebuild the primer assy because they always seem to leak at the most in-opportune time.

I keep a spare pickup head assy but the kodiak one is different.
Pickup on the left, Kodiak on the right.

61534359098__C8F58D0E-F7D1-408E-B946-AC24E5E384E7.JPG


61534359782__95F94E5C-F990-4EEF-9419-A2810B1392CC.JPG


You can buy the rebuild kits on Amazon but I didn't want to wait so I picked up a Dorman 904-124 from the parts store.

During the rebuild I found what I think is teflon tape stuck in the check valve flap. This picture is only one piece, I eventually removed several pieces just like it.

IMG_4278.JPG


61534468938__CF200C98-EF9C-4B45-BC2C-B844FEF52EC7.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: OkDually

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Bear with me as I am notorious for jumping around depending on what parts and time I have available to work on stuff. Something that is on the back of my mind is getting an engine driven OBA functional. The 12V compressor on this truck does not work and frankly wouldn't put out the volume of air I want. Plus its the perfect application for the PTO/ High Idle switch. I already tried to fit the York compressor off my pickup but the bracket doesn't work with the upper radiator hose or the air box.

You can see the hose rubs hard on the drivers side.

image1.jpeg


I found a company that shows the modifications it takes to make it work and I'm not thrilled with the "hot air intake". You can see in the pictures that they cut out the fiberglass hood to line up with the filter.

image2.png


image2.jpeg



My goal is to make something that fits using a box similar to the K&N filter kit for the Kodiaks. Maybe using a combination of a different york bracket and different air filter/box I can get it to work. I'll post updates when I get to that part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
942 Posts
the new medium duty chevy's have an option for engine driven air, you might check out what they are using.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
the new medium duty chevy's have an option for engine driven air, you might check out what they are using.
It's not a bad idea, I'll have to see if I can find one around that is equipped with air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This morning I was able to change the carrier bearing and joints in the rear driveshaft. I have to admit it took me a lot longer than expected and it seemed like it fought me every step of the way.

The carrier bearing was coming apart and the rubber was cracked most of the way around the bearing.

image0.jpeg


I tried to use a Proto puller but after it broke one of the "legs" I ended up cutting it off with a die grinder and Oxy torch.

image1.jpeg


image2.jpeg


I marked everything just like the intermiate shaft so that even after it's disassembled, I can put it back together exactly the way it was before.

image3.jpeg


image4.jpeg


image5.jpeg


image6.jpeg


I ended up using 3x SPL55 ujoints and 1x 212144-1x carrier bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I havn't had a chance to drive it yet to see if my 50-55mph vibration went away because I've had the dash torn apart working on installing boost and EGT gauges.

Side note. Does anyone know where I can get a 15032370 switch bezel and 21995828 4x gauge pod for the dash? I called the dealer and they said both have been discontinued. Mine work for now but they have had misc things screwed to them and are full of holes like swiss cheese.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I wasn't able to get the dash back together yesterday before finding a deal on a bed I couldn't pass up. There are a lot of things I'm not sure of with this bed such as how its going to look/ line up with the body lines? Also how I'm going to wire the tailgate to work correctly. I have been out of the loop with the new trucks and didn't realize the new beds don't even have a normal tailgate handle. I hope this thing doesn't need a BCM or the like to operate.

image0.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ok, as an update I completed the following:

-Installed the EGT/ Boost gauges.
-Ordered a replacement blank and DRL switch to replace the broken one
-Ordered a used upper gauge panel to replace the one some hacked up to install those ugly rockers
(I want to install a tranny temp gauge in that location)
-flushed/ changed the PS fluid and filter with a WIX 57131
-Got some 4" V-band clamp kits to work on the exhaust
61595189068__169A9434-782F-4B4F-983A-56417064782B.JPG


61603617368__C167BE56-BC7C-42F7-9A4F-782B1547E9EB.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
While the dash is apart I have also been working on making the tap shifter (GM PN# 15860125) work in preparation for doing the 5-6 speed reprogramming mod. I found some information on it Here. I am finding out the shifters are not a straight forward swap as the "D" flat spot in the Kodiak is 180' degrees off. I was able to fix this by very carefully grinding a flat spot in the shifter. After that it seems to bolt in and function correctly. I still need to order the correct pins for the TCM to place a wire in position #56 per DURAtotheMAX. Does anyone know if they have to program the tap shift function when they enable the 6 speed programming?

IMG_4332.JPG


IMG_4333.JPG


61558548893__596187C2-0405-4238-9C5F-22944A2F78CF.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ok at this point I think I am going to abandon the idea of the tap shifter. From my understanding on reading other forum members attempts to make it work; the mapping in the TCM is not the same as a pickup. Because I don't have the ability to program and play with the Allison TCMs I am going to put the stock shifter back in and move on with the exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I was surprised to find the stock exhaust is only 3" in diameter while the stock pickup size is 3.5". I have a spare LB7 4" front pipe but they are way different. Looks like ill be making one from scratch.


61619385891__D13D259B-12A1-4574-9FBA-34927B52A1B9.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: OkDually

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Last night I started with the old flange I cut off the factory pipe and an assortment of 45' and 90' exhaust pieces. I was able to piece together enough exhaust to make it past the transfer case before I ran out of light and energy. Tonight I should have enough time to bend and weld on exhaust hangers.

image1.jpeg


IMG_4460.JPG


image0.jpeg


image2.jpeg


image3.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
@Krazy Ken ... what an awesome thread. There seems to be nothing you can't handle. Subscribing.
I appreciate the kind words but I'm afraid its far from the truth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Does anyone know if any company's manufacture, down pipes, up pipes, and full exhausts for C4500 C5000 Kodiak Topkicks ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Does anyone know if any company's manufacture, down pipes, up pipes, and full exhausts for C4500 C5000 Kodiak Topkicks ?
I didn't spend much time looking but a quick google search didn't come up with any. I guessing its too small of a market to put into production??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
So other than one exhaust hanger I noticed I missed, the exhaust is done. I will go back and add a hanger next time I have the welder out. I received the trans temp gauge and replacement used gauge panel I ordered so I can finally start getting the dash back together.

It looks like the previous owner converted the trans cooler lines to hydraulic hoses. By doing so it removed the trans temp sender location (No wonder the trans gauge never worked). To fix this I pulled the trans pan and welded an 1/8npt bung on the back. This truck actually came from Prudhoe Bay Alaska and has a lot of road grime so I bead blasted the pan when I was done.

61668832392__40EF4C9F-BF49-47A3-9BF1-775025337743.JPG


IMG_4493.JPG


IMG_4492.JPG


IMG_4491.JPG


IMG_4494.JPG
 
1 - 20 of 92 Posts
Top